American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26316 Records

Title Publication Year
Cerro Pantojo, New Routes
In October 2017, Ian Schwer and I completed two new routes on the south face of Cerro Pantojo (2,027m). This mountain ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Anfiteatro, Wall Mapu
In March, Maximo Fernandez (Chile), Lucas “Turco” Dahir (Argentina), and I finished a project we started a few years ago ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Anvers Island, Unnamed Peak Southwest of Shewry Peak, Southwest Ridge
In January 2016 I sailed to the Peninsula on the yacht Icebird with Robert Catton, Mike Jaques, Paul Kutarski, and Jim ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict
KARAKORAM: CLIMBING THROUGH THE KASHMIR CONFLICT.  Steve Swenson. Mountaineers Books, 2017. Hardcover, 315 pages, $26.95. In Karakoram , Steve Swenson describes the climbs ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Pandra, Northeast Face, Peine Plancher
In October, Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, and Benjamin Védrines (France) made the second ascent of Pandra (6,850...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Phungi Himal: First Ascent by Southeast Face
Some years ago, Anatoly Moshnikov commented, “I have already climbed that route in my mind, should we do it in ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Nilkanth, Southwest Face, Obscured Perception
Between September 29 and October 2, Anne Gilbert Chase, Jason Thompson, and I made the first ascent of the southwest face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pangbuk North, Northeast Face and Southeast Ridge
AFTER SPENDING almost 20 hours studying the pictures of the west face of Lunag Ri, I thought I’d finally found ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Culmination
IN THE SUMMER of 2014, Ryo Masumoto, Takaaki Nagato, and I aspired to reach the summit of unclimbed Badal Peak (ca 6,100...
AAJ
Feature Article
2018
Chekigo Sano, West Face; Bamongo, South Face, Tick Chha
Four members of the Spanish Alpine Team (Equipo Español de Alpinism)—Jesús Ibarz,Omar Juan, Pablo Ruí...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cerro Sahne Nuss, New Route
In November 2017, Pedro Binfa and Joan Marc Henares climbed a new route on the south face Cerro Sahne Nuss (2,237m) ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Shispare: The Long Quest for an Elusive Summit
THE QUEST, BY KAZUYA HIRAIDE Shispare was always there, living in the back of my head. A mountain worth spending ...
AAJ
Feature Article
2018
Thirteen Days on Shkhara: A New Route and First Winter Ascent From the South
Shkhara (5,203m) is Georgia’s highest mountain—about 500m higher than well-known Ushba—and according to experienced mountaineers ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Larson Valley: West Pyramid, South Face, Infinite Curves; Larson Ridge, Central and West Summits
The Larson Ridge is the name given to the east-west-oriented crest that borders the northern edge of the Larson Valley . ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Heim Peninsula and Sydkap Icecap, Ski Traverse and Various First Ascents
The original plan had been a west-to-east traverse of the Sydkap Icecap from Baad Fiord to Harbour Fiord. However, advanced ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Inugsuarmiut Fjord, Plan B Tower
It was 1998 when I first landed in Greenland. Little did I know it would be the beginning of a long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Korlang Pari Tippa South, West Face and South Ridge
In November, Rob Boulton, Joe O'Connor, Mark Rowland, Ian Stead, Dan Walker, and I, led by Dawa Rita Sherpa and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Hooker, Original Sin
GRAND OBJECTIVES within six hours’ drive from your front door are still to be found. In July of 1964, Dick McCracken, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Moro Rock, Meteora
In 2016 Daniel Jeffcoach and I started a new independent line on the middle of the steep west face of Moro ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Castle Rocks, New Routes and Traverse
In the spring of 2017 I completed several new routes in the Castle Rocks area with different partners. Daniel Jeffcoach and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Charlotte Dome, Dance of Dragons
After making possibly the second ascent of Beast and Beauty (IV 5.11a ) with Chaz Langelier, car-to-car, I returned to Charlotte ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Grand Sentinel, Northeast Buttress
Grand Sentinel is a large north-facing tower across from North Dome, and is one of the most eye-catching rock faces ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
North Cotter, Vertical Illusion
A year prior to getting into technical rock climbing, I saw the sheer east wall of North Cotter  [Editor's ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Beau-Te Cache Dome, Fantomas; Hamilton Dome, Ophelia
In October 2017, a fter working a 12-hour shift at the hospital, I rested in bed for a few hours then ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
First Ascent of North Bishopric and Traverse
From October 2016 through April 2017, I drove 11,000 miles and spent eight outings in the Zion backcountry attempting, by various routes, the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Various New Routes and First Ascents
Between October 2016 and May 2017, I made the likely first ascents of eight distinct formations in Zion. In late October, Courtney ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Emerald Pools Traverse; Cathedral Mountain, Iron Curtain
The idea for this adventure came while doing the second ascent of Castle Dome with Courtney Purcell and Aron Ralston ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Hidden Mountains, Serendipity Spires, The Salmon Shark
"Glaciers, mountains, rivers, forests, tundra; a landscape rich with places that have never felt the tread of human feet. It ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Niels Tietze, 1986 – 2017
Sometime on November 13, Niels Tietze, 31, fell to his death in what appears to have been a rappelling accident on Fifi ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2018
Xiao Gongga, Northwest Ridge, Long's Route (Variation)
ON NOVEMBER 28, four members of Summit Experience Mountain Co.—Sun Bin, Liu Hai Chuan, Zhang Bao Long, and I&...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ueli Steck, 1976 – 2017
On April 30, the climbing world lost one of its all-time greats when Ueli Steck fell from approxmately 7,100 meters on Nuptse ...
AAJ
In Memoriam
2018
Karnak Valley, Hanuman Wall, Monkey Business
With a Grit & Rock Award, my wife, Christina Pogacean, was due to attempt H17 in Zanskar, and I came ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lhonak Peak, South-Southeast Ridge, Attempt
Takanori Mashimo’s six-member Japanese expedition, which made the first ascent of Dzanye II in October 2015 ( AAJ 2016 ), also made an ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
New Works of Poetry and Fiction – 2017
The Snyder-Wilcox Expedition on Denali in 1967 was not only North America’s most tragic mountaineering incident—seven deaths—...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Found: A Life in Mountain Rescue
Found: A Life in Mountain Rescue . Bree Loewen. Mountaineers Books, 2017. Paperback, 224 pages, $17.95. In this autobiographical work, Bree Loewen describes ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Honouring High Places: The Mountain Life of Junko Tabei
Honouring High Places: The Mountain Life of Junko Tabei.  Junko Tabei and Helen Y. Rolffe, translated by Yumika Hiraki ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Mt. Edgar, West Face, Jiazi, Southeast Ridge, and Other First Ascents
I BECAME AWARE of the Minya Konka massif while looking through Tom Nakamura's book East of the Himalaya . I ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Kemailong, North Face and East Ridge
In October, with the support of a Grit & Rock First Ascent Grant, the team of Galina Chibitok (Russia), Marina ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Zhawuduo, Welcome to Zhagana and Gate to Asgard
In May, He Chuan (China), China-based Ola Przybysz (Poland), who led the trip, and I visited the Tibetan village of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lalung Valley, Unnamed Buttress, Mahalaya
During September, Spandan Sanyal and I joined our friends Jon Griffin and Tad McCrea (both USA) for an expedition to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Toro Peak, South Face, Various Routes; Neverseen Tower, Second Ascent of Horn Please
In May 2017, Nick Craddock (NZ), David Shotwell (USA), Allison Swintz (USA), and I traveled to the Miyar Valley. We had ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Miyar Valley, Various Ascents
My wife, Muriel Zucchini, and I initially went to the Miyar Valley in the fall of 2015. Our first route was ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Yanme Kang, South Face
Approaching via Yangma and the lakes of Nangamari Pokhari and Pabuk Pokhari, Grégoire Lestienne and Floriane Pugin (France) established ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lowering Errors – Ropes Too Short, Helmet/No Helmet
On July 3 there were two climbing accidents almost identical in nature in the Valley. Both were ground falls, and both ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Langdung, Southwest Face and Southeast Ridge
In late 2017, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa, Pasang Kidar Sherpa, and I obtained a permit for unclimbed Langdung (6,357m), ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tranokitily Dome, Sweet Avocado
Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley has been described as the Yosemite of Africa . But on its big, mostly crackless granite walls, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
The Push: A Climber's Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going Beyond Limits
THE PUSH: A CLIMBER'S JOURNEY OF ENDURANCE, RISK, AND GOING BEYOND LIMITS . Tommy Caldwell. Viking, 2017. Hardcover, 352 pages, $27. How to ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
The Climbers
THE CLIMBERS . Jim Herrington. The Mountaineers, 2017. Slip-cased hardcover, 189 pages, $59.95. When you stand outside, looking to your climbing objective, you ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018
Ground Fall – Fixed Quickdraws Broke
Jordan Cannon, 22, was attempting Bongo Fury (5.12b), a bolted arête in the Joe’s Garage area, in late March . ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
The Ogre: Biography of a Mountain and the Dramatic Story of the First Ascent
THE OGRE: BIOGRAPHY OF A MOUNTAIN AND THE DRAMATIC STORY OF THE FIRST ASCENT . Doug Scott. Vertebrate Publishing, 2017. Hardcover, 192 ...
AAJ
Book Reviews
2018