American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Articles

26179 Records

Title Publication Year
Cordón Aysén Exploration and First Ascent of Cerro Enroque
On a 23-day expedition during the austral winter of 2017, Natalia Martínez and I accessed and explored the remote Cordó...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Gocta Falls, Yaku Mama
In July, we spent a month in Peru with our climbing partners Pedro Galán and Manu Ponce, along with ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
First Free Ascent and New Route in the Quebrada Rurec
After opening the new route Yaku Mama at Gocta Falls, in Peru’s northern Amazon, with Pedro Galán and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Coropuna Massif, Various Ascents
Coropuna (6,425m) is the highest volcano in Peru. Located approximately 150km northwest of Arequipa, it has six glaciated summits higher ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Huandoy Norte, Northwest Face, Solo Variation
On October 18–19, Nathan Heald (Peru) soloed a variation to the 1959 Swiss and 1985 Mexican routes on the west-northwest face of Huandoy ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Terijuay Massif, Terijuay Grande, South Face
In mid-August, Manolo Urquizo, Coqui Galvez, Andres Putallaz, and I met in Calca and took a shuttle van to Lares ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tsaranoro Atsimo, Rivotra Mahery
Our adventure in Madagascar started as many adventures begin: a spark in a climber’s eyes and a picture to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Peaks Around Boesam Pass
James Lawson, Will Smith, and I initially planned to visit the Yashkuk-Yaz Glacier in northwest Gilgit-Baltistan, near the Afghan border. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Emily Peak, South Face, La Vengeance de Robîne
In May and June, a friend and I traveled to Pakistan to attempt virgin Pumari Chhish East (6,850m), above the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Jinnah Peak, Southeast Face and East Ridge
Italian climbers and trekkers have been visiting parts of the Hindu Raj on or around the Chiantar Glacier ever since ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt
We would have done it, I'm certain, but the weather was constantly against us. Our sirdar told us he couldn't ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Yad Sar and Peak 5,855m
In August 2017, four friends traveled to the Shimshal Valley to look for unclimbed peaks. Steve Carratt, George Cave, Clay Conlon, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Devils Thumb, North Pillar, Second Ascent (Solo)
I arrived in Petersburg, Alaska, at the end of July, about six weeks after setting sail from Port Hadlock, Washington ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Monolith, Discovery
"Sam, you need a copy of Bonney and Bonney's Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas ," said Paul Piana ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Wales Lake Peak, High Fashion
In late August, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I hiked into Wales Lake in search of steep unclimbed rock. We ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Spry, Hintersands
Over multiple trips from December 2017 to February 2018, I established and freed a new route on the steep southeast face of ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Kinesava, Slam Panther!
In April, Jonathan Schaffer and I climbed a new ground-up route on the north face of Mt. Kinesava. Slam Panther! (400...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Valley of the Gods, New Routes
In November, Emily Reinsel and I completed our quest to summit every freestanding formation in the Valley of the Gods (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Haystack Mountain, The Far Side, First Free Ascent
“Here are the same pins and hammer we used to put it up in ’96,” Norm Larson said, handing over four ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Fall from Anchor – Communication Problems
THAD FERRELL AND I ARRIVED at Lemon Reservoir in the upper Florida River Valley, near Durango, around 8 a.m. ...
ANAM
Accident Reports
2018
Sphinx Lakes, New Routes
In early August, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I left Road’s End and hiked into the Sphinx Lakes, where ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Tucupit Point, Morphology
The development of Morphology began in April 2015, when Karl Kvashay aid-soloed the first two pitches, following aesthetic thin seams, as ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sedona, Various New Routes
During my time as a geology graduate student at Northern Arizona University, I’ve enjoyed easy weekend access to the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Wolfs Head, Brass Monkey and Green Dragon
The south face of Wolfs Head, in the Cirque of the Towers, appears to have been scratched by the claws ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Morning Star Peak, Vega Tower, Marvin's Ear
During the Fourth of July weekend, a planned climb on Vesper Peak (6,214’) turned into an alpine picnic due to my ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Hooker, Hooters
In mid-July, Jen Olson (Canada) and I embarked on the long, soggy, and yet stunningly beautiful walk into the Wind ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Ross Peak, Blue Phoenix
In 2016, my good friend Tony Chang had mentioned to me that there was a lot of overlooked potential for long ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Deer Lakes Basin, New Routes
In August and October, Ray Eckland, Giselle Fernandez, and I established a dozen new climbs in the Deer Lakes region, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Glacier Peak, Catch-a-Sunrise
Intending to have a nice, somewhat leisurely outing to complete my goal of climbing all the 12,000’ peaks in Montana, Elaine ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Castle Peak, The Drawbridge
Morgan Zentler is a baller. Last year he finished the Bulger List, climbing all 100 of Washington’s highest peaks, and ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Half Moon, Uncle Wehrly's Toupee
In July, Eric Wehrly and I headed up to Half Moon (7,960’) and its subpeaks near Washington Pass to attempt a ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Disappointment Peak, Kim Schmitz Memorial Route
I had the idea to put up a route in honor of Kim Schmitz well before he died. I would ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Pik Lenin, West-East Traverse
In July, Markus Gschwendt (Austria) and Anton Sharobayko (Russia) made a lengthy and unusual traverse of Pik Lenin (7,134m).  ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lower Buckhorn Wash, Crossroads
Prolific Utah route developer Bill Ohran recalls ripping down a dirty desert road in the San Rafael Swell in the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cottontail Tower, Line in the Sand
After sharing adventure climbing stories and pictures of chossy towers one night over dinner in the fall of 2015 with the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity
El Cap continued to see considerable free climbing attention this year from an international cast. In the fall, Barbara Zangerl (...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lone Pine Peak, Bastille Buttress, Bad Hombres
On April 19, Myles Moser and I spotted an unclimbed snow and ice gully on the northeastern side of the Bastille ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Lone Pine Peak, Stonehouse Buttress, Cream of the Crop
On May 4, Myles Moser and I started a new route on the sunny south face of the Stonehouse Buttress, to ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Whitney Portal, Parisian Buttress, The Louvre
On May 27, Myles Moser and I climbed a high-quality route on the left side of the Parisian Buttress, a prominent ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Cartago Creek Gorge, New Routes
In April, three new routes were established on the large formations bordering the Cartago Creek Gorge, west of Highway 395 near ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Wheeler Crest, New Routes
In the fall of 2017, many new climbs were established in the various steep canyons of the Wheeler Crest. In general, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Sandstone Canyon, New Routes
When I arrived in Red Rock in early October, the temperatures were still quite warm and I had a difficult ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Wilson, Aeolian Wall, The Wicked
The first time I approached the Aeolian Wall on Mt. Wilson I quickly became enamored with the crack systems flanking ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
El Capitan, The Direct Line
The Direct Line (39 pitches, 5.13+), a.k.a. the Platinum Wall, is a brand-new, mostly independent free line on El Capitan. ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Australia, South Face, Ask and You Shall Receive
On August 6, under clear skies and with dreams of first ascents on remote peaks, Tess Ferguson, Anina Friedrich, Jessica Keil, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Mt. Tyndall, Jahloada’s Witness and Chorblamos
In mid-July, Jon Griffin, Gabriel Andres Mancilla Jipoulou, and I climbed two new routes in the Williamson Bowl of the ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Third Recess Peak, Sprim Jockey
Early July found Jon Griffin and me below Third Recess Peak in the Mono Recesses, a series of hanging valleys ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Volcán Incahuasi, New Route, and Other Ascents
Incahuasi is a 6,638m volcano on the border with Chile whose name means "Inca house" in Quechua. The world’s ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2019
Quebrada Chorrillos: Cerro 34 Leguas and Exploration
Glauco Muratti has been exploring the mountains of Mendoza Province, near Aconcagua, for years. In February 2018, he joined another Argentine, ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018
Famatina Range: Peak 5,849m; Negro Overo, Southeast Face
During July 2016, an Argentine team (Lucas Alzamora, Juan Guerra, and Roberto Rivas Jordan) climbed a new route up the southeast ...
AAJ
Climbs And Expeditions
2018