The 2022 route up the south-southeast ridge of Nagoru Far East. Photo by Wolfgang Drexler. I first visited the Nagoru peaks in 2013, then again in 2016 and 2018 (AAJs 2017 and 2019). In October, I returned with Michaela Bohdalek, Lawang Taman...
Tiphaine Duperier in front of the unclimbed northeast face of Dhaulagiri II. Photo by Boris Langenstein. From September 16 to October 16, I was in Nepal with my best companion Boris Langenstein to attempt Dhaulagiri II (7,751m). This mountain...
The view south from the summit of Lukeko Baref (Peak 6,122m). (A) Peak 6,506m. (B) Lachama Chuli. (C) Gave Ding. (D) La Sum (Peak 6,076m). (E) Lachama Khola North Fork. The sharp summit directly below B and nearer the camera is Peak 6,233m, atte...
Changabang seen from the Bagini Glacier to the north. The west face route more or less follows the right skyline. In 1976, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker approached Bagini Col, the low point in the ridge, from the far side to start their ascent o...
The north face of Chaukhamba in spring 2022 showing the line of ascent. Photo by Boris Textor. It took us five days to get to a base camp for Chaukhamba at 4,627m (30.793025°N, 79.299557°E) at the fork in the Bhagirathi Kharak (Glacier). Chau...
Approaching the roofs at the top of pitch seven on the south face of Kirti Nose. Directly behind, across the moraines of the Gangotri Glacier, is the southwest face of Bhagirathi III. At the beginning of September I traveled to the Garhwal w...
Wadim Jablonski on the upper (south-facing) headwall of Phaalkan Meenaar. Photo by Ondrej Huserka. At 5 p.m. on October 16, after three days of climbing, Wadim Jablonski (Poland) and I reached the top of a previously unclimbed rock tower of 5...
Since 2004, foreign parties attempting peaks of the Garhwal and Kumaon in the state of Uttarakhand have been required to pay double peak fees. One fee, as per normal in India, was paid to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the other to the gove...
After a day’s drive from Leh, Will Harris, Callum Johnson, Tom Seccombe, Dave Sharpe, and I made a six-hour walk to base camp on the west side of the Hagshu Glacier. On arrival, it was obvious conditions were extremely dry: The monsoon appeared to...
Base camp in the Lalung Valley with Chiling I (left) and II. The steep, unclimbed north face of Chiling II (in shadow) faces right. Photo by Innes Dean. In September-October 2022, Innes Dean, Alex Mathie, and I spent five weeks in the Lalung ...
Ibsti Kangri from the east face of Kang Yatze I. Photo by Simon Fraser. During the summer of 1976, I was part of a British university expedition that made ascents of the now popular trekking peak Stok Kangri as well as four neighboring peaks ...
Adad Medni from the south. The mountain’s steep hiking route climbs to (E) East Notch and then to the summit. In 2019, climbers traversed from East Notch to (S) South Notch, and one group attempted the South Pillar above the notch, while another...
A few years ago, looking at maps, I found a mountain called Blokktinden (1,035m) on the shore of Tjongsfjord. Initially I thought the steep northwest face would be a cool summer objective, but after seeing photos showing a black, wet stripe runnin...
On February 19, Juho Knuuttila and Sami Modenius climbed Finnjävel (450m, M5 R 90°), a new route up the northeast face of Breidtinden (1,001m), leading directly to the main summit. The route is to the left of the “Scottish Wall,” which holds a nu...
Senja island in northern Norway has been described as Scotland on steroids. Steep mountains with fairy-tale summits plunge straight into the sea. The maritime climate combined with Arctic Circle temperatures provide a host of winter climbing oppor...
In January and February 2023, on my sixth expedition to Queen Maud Land, I spent three weeks ski mountaineering in the western Wohlthat Mountains, climbing peaks in the Humboldt Mountains and Petermann Range. Rupert Heim (Germany) and I climbed: ...
On January 4, 2023, Penn Newhard, Todd Passey, Jon Styslinger, and I flew 150km north from the Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) camp on the Union Glacier to the eastern side of the Sentinel Range. After evaluating the upper Ellen Glacie...
Alex Honnold on Mt. Dolence. Photo by Esteban Mena In January 2023, Sam Hennessey, Alex Honnold, Esteban “Topo” Mena, and Nate Opp ascended the last obvious unclimbed couloir on the west face of Branscomb Peak (4,520m), a subpeak of the Vinso...
It was that familiar feeling you get when you finish a big climb. That immense wash of relief that climbers all know, when you finally touch down from that last rappel, and you are once again planted on solid ground. It’s a bittersweet transition ...
Inspired by Erik Boomer and Sarah McNair-Landry’s trip to Anijaaq Fjord in 2020 (see AAJ 2021), we visited the area in August with Scottish friends Steve Kennedy and Colin “Cog” Moody. Using Skip Novak’s Pelagic sailboat, operated by Chris Kobusch...