In August 2017, four friends traveled to the Shimshal Valley to look for unclimbed peaks. Steve Carratt, George Cave, Clay Conlon, and I had previous expedition experience, but due to work commitments could only afford three weeks away. This was a...
We would have done it, I'm certain, but the weather was constantly against us. Our sirdar told us he couldn't remember such weather in August. It snowed for all but the first two days of our 15-day attempt on the 2,400m north ridge of Latok I (7,1...
Italian climbers and trekkers have been visiting parts of the Hindu Raj on or around the Chiantar Glacier ever since Franco Brunello’s first expedition in 1997. The highest peak in this subrange is Koh-i-Chiantar (6,416m), first climbed in 1967 by...
In May and June, a friend and I traveled to Pakistan to attempt virgin Pumari Chhish East (6,850m), above the YutmaruGlacier. During acclimatization my friend fell sick, so I decided to attempt an easier peak alone. Leaving base camp on the north ...
James Lawson, Will Smith, and I initially planned to visit the Yashkuk-Yaz Glacier in northwest Gilgit-Baltistan, near the Afghan border. Unfortunately, our permit was denied at the last minute. Inspired by a report from Pete Thompson in AAJ 2016...
Our adventure in Madagascar started as many adventures begin: a spark in a climber’s eyes and a picture to start the dreams of a new trip to explore the world. It did not take long to convince Dimitri Anghileri, Marco Maggioni, and me that the wal...
In mid-August, Manolo Urquizo, Coqui Galvez, Andres Putallaz, and I met in Calca and took a shuttle van to Lares on the northeastern side of the Cordillera Urubamba. From there we took a 4x4 vehicle to the village of Cachin in the hills above. Ver...
On October 18–19, Nathan Heald (Peru) soloed a variation to the 1959 Swiss and 1985 Mexican routes on the west-northwest face of Huandoy Norte (6,395m). Starting at 10:15 p.m., he took a direct line up the snow and ice face leading to the broad su...
Coropuna (6,425m) is the highest volcano in Peru. Located approximately 150km northwest of Arequipa, it has six glaciated summits higher than 6,000m, and the massif covers 83 square kilometers. [See AAJ 2013 for more about Nevado Coropuna.]Julieta...
After opening the new route Yaku Mama at Gocta Falls, in Peru’s northern Amazon, with Pedro Galán and Manu Ponce, (see linked report) our team traveled by bus for 24 hours to reach Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca. Our biggest problem now was arriv...
In July, we spent a month in Peru with our climbing partners Pedro Galán and Manu Ponce, along with Luis Rizo and Lina Schütze as cameraman. Visiting both the Amazon and the Cordillera Blanca, we came away from Peru very happy with our three compl...
On a 23-day expedition during the austral winter of 2017, Natalia Martínez and I accessed and explored the remote Cordón Aysén in Chilean Patagonia. The Cordón Aysén is a 30 km mountain range on the western edge of the Northern Patagonian Ice Fiel...
From late December 2016 through early February 2017, Josie McKee and I spent just over four weeks exploring and climbing in northern Patagonia’s Río Alerce Valley. This region is about 20–30 kilometers southwest of Chaitén, Chile, and east of Parq...
In March, Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea, and I traveled to the remote western side of the Cordillera de Sarmiento and spent two weeks exploring the area. Previously, the majority of the few climbing expeditions to this range have accessed the peaks from...
This expedition (www.arrampicande.it) was the initiative of Pietro Rago (Italy), who first visited the Quebrada Rurec in 2005 and wanted to establish new routes with two professional athletes with disabilities: Silvia Parente, a skier who is blind...
In August, Peruvian IFMGA guide Marco Jurado, along with Frank Huamán and Misael Mendoza (both Peru), traveled to Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos Cocha, east of Lima. After traveling through Huancayo, they made camp at 5,070m at a small lake under...
In July, Peruvian IFMGA guide Victor Rímac traveled with Greg Meyering and Susie Young (both USA) to Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos Cocha, located in Peru’s Cordillera Central, east of Lima.On July 10, after traveling through the Junín region of ...
After spending three weeks in the Cordillera Blanca in July, Argentineans Nehuen Conterno and Pablo Maximiliano Laumann visited the Cordillera Central near Lima. The pair had many objectives in mind in this little explored and documented region. O...
After more than 20 seasons in the Bugaboos, I wasn’t quite sure how much energy I had to devote to my beloved backyard spires. Injuries held me back in 2017 from climbing anywhere near my limit, which in turn pulled in the reins on my enthusiasm. ...
Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov from Russia climbed a new route up the northwest face of the south tower of Mt. Asgard in August. Their route ascends a prominent pillar on the left side of the face, well to the left of Sensory Overload (2012, ...