Club Activities AAJ
Western Slope Section

The year started with the 19th annual Ouray Ice Festival, which, as usual, was well attended. The evening programs were very popular, especially the Ueli Steck show on Thursday, where people had to be turned away. We also spent time at the festiva...

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| Published 2014 | Author Lee Jenkins, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
North Central Section

Our section continues to grow and build local support. This past year we teamed up with the Black Hills Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund to build and redevelop some major climbers’ trails in Custer State Park. We also teamed up with the Blac...

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| Published 2014 | Author Mark Jobman, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
New Mexico Section

In September, New Mexico State University teamed with our section, Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition, Organ Mountains Technical Rescue Squad, Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park, Southwest Environmental Center, Southern New Mexico Trail Alliance, and...

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| Published 2014 | Author Pat Gioannini, Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Idaho Section

In 2014 the Idaho Section enjoyed consistent participation of its members and persistent engagement with non-members in the mountaineering and outdoor communities—a concrete step toward further strengthening ties with the community in 2015.In Apri...

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| Published 2015 | Author Kammie Cuneo & Jason Luthy, Co-Chairs


Club Activities AAJ
Southwest Section

As in the last several years, the Southwest Section had four principal events in 2014: a climbing/restoration weekend in Joshua Tree National Park in March; a stewardship day at Idyllwild in June as part of the fourth annual Idyllwild Climbers Fes...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jim Pinter-Lucke, Co-Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Oregon Section

Once every month, AAC members in Portland gathered at a local brewery for Pub Club, an informal social gathering that provides members with access to an amazing network of local climbers and instant camaraderie, based on a shared passion for climb...

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| Published 2014 | Author Heidi Medema, Co-Chair


Club Activities AAJ
Cascade Section

The Cascade Section held numerous festivals, clinics, and social events throughout the year. Highlights included our Send & Social events at the Seattle Bouldering Project, where climbers could compete in events such as crash-pad stacking and ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Eddie Espinosa, Northwest Regional Coordinator


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Tahu Rutum, West Face Attempt and Rescue Pakistan, Hispar Muztagh

During the summer of 2013 an attempt on Tahu Rutum resulted in a serious injury and rescue, followed by unusual difficulties between the Korean expedition, their logistical agencies, and Askari Aviation, the company responsible for rescue services...

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| Published 2014 | Author From Info by Oh Young-Hoon, Korea


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Uli Biaho Gallery: Freetanga Ecuatoriana Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

Felipe Guarderas and I climbed three established routes in the Trango Group in June and July. We summited Trango Tower via Eternal Flame, Little Trango via the original American Route, and Great Trango via the normal route. Prior to this we had at...

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| Published 2014 | Author Roberto Morales, Ecuador


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Shipton Spire, Bismillah (Not to Summit) Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

Patrice Bret, David Girard, and I (France) spent mid-July to mid-August in Pakistan with the main goal of repeating one of the routes on Trango Tower. We spent around a week climbing the Slovenian Route, though the top pitches were in poor conditi...

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| Published 2014 | Author Pascal Trividic, France


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Paiju Peak, South Pillar, Via 2T Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

On June 30 Spanish-Basque mountaineers Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza arrived at their 3,400m base camp below Paiju Peak (6,610m) for a second attempt at the south pillar. In the summer of 2013 they had climbed the first 500m o...

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| Published 2014 | Author From Information Supplied By Ana Larizgoitia, Spain


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Muchu Chhish, Attempt Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh

In August, Phil De-Beger, Tim Oates, and Peter Thompson (U.K.) attempted unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m, among the highest unclimbed summits in the world for which it is possible to obtain a permit). The plan was to climb alpine-style along the so...

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| Published 2014 | Author Lindsay Griffin


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Languta-e-Barfi, South Face, Attempt Pakistan, Hindu Kush

Getting to Languta-e-Barfi (Langua-tai Barfi, 6,827m) was an organic process. Originally, Chris Todd and I intended to approach the mountain from the north via the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. But by chance we discovered Languta-e-Barfi hadn’t ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Pat Deavoll, New Zealand


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Igls Peak Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains

Before making a rare south-to-north crossing of Chapchingol Pass, a team of mountaineers from Austria and Pakistan visited the Ghidims Valley to attempt an unclimbed summit clearly visible from the upper valley and Yahya Camp (4,400m). Starting fr...

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| Published 2014 | Author Stephan Tischler


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Little Trango, Eid Mubarak Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

“Are you going to climb on the Trango Towers under the supervision of some Western climber?” This was the usual opening question. This would be followed by a barrage of inquiries about our skills, gear, past accidents, and everything that pointed ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Imran Junaidi, Pakistan


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
K7 Southwest Summit (Badal Peak) Pakistan, Masherbrum Range, Charakusa Valley

Ryo Masumoto, Takaki Nagato, and I visited the Charakusa Valley for one month, and after acclimatizing on Sulu Peak we made our goal the southeast ridge of a previously unclimbed sub-peak that lies on the ridge extending southwest from K7 West (6,...

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| Published 2014 | Author Katsutaka Ykoyama, Japan


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 41, North Face, Attempt Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section

In October 2014, Choi Ji-won, Kim Jeong-yeop, Ku Eun-su, and Wang Jun-ho attempted Peak 41 (6,648m), starting up the left-hand couloir on the north face, a little to the right of the line tried by Jack Geldard and Rob Greenwood in 2012. On October...

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| Published 2014 | Author Oh Young-hoon


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 4, Southeast Ridge, Attempt Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Makalu Section

On April 6, after a six-day trek from the rough road at Num, we arrived at Makalu base camp (ca 4,800m). With sponsorship from the Millet Expedition Project, we had come to try Peak 4 (6,736m), which at the time we believed to be unclimbed.The eas...

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| Published 2015 | Author Cati Llado and Tomeu Rubi


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection, Top-Roping Error Utah, Zion National Park, Kolob Canyon

On April 6 a female climber (approximately 20 years old) broke her leg after taking a large, swinging top-rope fall from a sport climb in Kolob Canyon. The climber was part of a group of seven that visited the very overhanging crag that day. The g...

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| Published 2014 | Author Ben Iseman


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall On Rock – Inadequate Belay Roosevelt National Forest, Dream Canyon

On a lovely spring day in April, I met several friends at the Oceanic Wall in Dream Canyon, a deep tributary of Boulder Canyon. After several warm-ups, I got on a 5.11d I had climbed several times in the past. The crux lies between the third and f...

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| Published 2014 | Author Beth Bennett