Jannu, North Face, Attempt. In the fall, our team went to attempt the north face of Jannu (7710m) in Nepal. We fixed ropes to 6000 meters but were turned back by weather and a dwindling team effort. The face remains unclimbed on the right side. It...
Mount Robson. Ted Davis and I did what we believe is a first ascent variation of the Emperor Ridge by climbing the west face directly right of the Emperor and then continuing up the Emperor Ridge above the face to the summit, which we reached on J...
Crystal Crag, North Arête. On a blustery day in late June Rick Taylor and I climbed this beautiful arete. We reached the base after a short hike from Crystal Lake. The route begins in a prominent dihedral on the prow of the arête. The first pitch ...
Wildcat Buttress. Six miles northwest of Tuolumne Meadows is Glen Aulin, a two-mile-long parkland through which the Tuolumne River flows. Unlike most other areas on the western slope of the Sierra, Glen Aulin has groves of aspen, scattered juniper...
Mt. Grosvenor, South Face, and Once Were Warriors. Eamonn Walsh (Canmore, Alberta) and I spent two weeks in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier in early spring. On March 31 we ascended the broad snow gully between Mt. Church and Mt. Grosvenor, the...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksA man (22) was leading the climb, Harvard (5.2), when he fell on the first pitch, about five meters up. He hit the ground, cutting his head. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisOn the start of easy climbs, even for beginn...
Bremen Hindu Kush Expedition. Five Germans from Bremen made a modest expedition into the Hindu Kush. They drove from Germany to 50 miles beyond Kabul, where they organized a pack train to take them 100 miles farther. They made the first ascent of ...
Unnamed (10,283 ft.). N. buttress of Cataract Pass. Guidebook, page 162. 1940 first ascent by Miss L. Gest, Miss P. Prescott, C. Häsler. From motor highway 6.3 miles S. of 1938 A. C. C. campsite. Cross Nigel Creek on logs at old road camp. Ascend ...
Swiss Expedition to West Greenland, 1968. A six-member Swiss expedition led by André Grisel visited the region north of Sukkertoppen, above Sermilinguaq Fjord and on Homborgerland or Sermersut Island. They made various first ascents. A full accoun...
Auyuittuq National Park Report for 1988. Auyuittuq National Park Reserve experienced another busy season this year. Eleven mountaineering groups totalling 30 people from five countries visited the park for climbing and skiing activities. Some moun...
California, San Bernardino Range, Mt. San Gorgonio. On 23 December, Michael Daugherty (26), Charles Heifer (21), and Joseph Hara (50) were descending the route of ascent and the accident occurred about 500 feet below the summit on the North side. ...
Kunyang Chhish North. A Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University was led by Kohei Echizenya climbed the north ridge of Kunyang Chhish (23,321 feet) to make the first ascent. Base Camp was placed on the Kunyang Glacier at 14,300 feet on June 17...
K2 Women’s Expedition Tragedy. The expedition organized by Wanda Rutkiewicz-Scharfetter was further composed of Alicja Bednarz, Frenchwoman Christine de Colombel, Anna Czerwinska, Halina Krüger-Syro-komska, Aniela Lukaszewska, Dr. Jolanta Maciuch,...
Mount Logan Attempt. John Marshall, Dr. Gene Mason, Jack Walston, Steve Trafton, Dr. Wayne Smith, Dr. Gordon Doty, Lute Jerstad and Jay Ullin and I unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Logan by the standard route. We were delayed from June 23 u...
Crescent Spire. Traverse from Bugaboo-Crescent Col August 22nd, 1938. R. Brinton, H. Fuller, H. Gates.
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 24, 1987, a party of three attempted to climb and descend the Wishbone Arete in one day. They were attempting a lightweight climb, carrying no stove or ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. A five-person Spanish team attempted Lhotse Shar by its southeast ridge, the normal route. They established four camps above Base Camp. Four climbers, including leader Antoni Sors and the only woman, Maria Merced Macía, reache...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. The testing of ice screws and pitons on Mount Hood under Jack Baldwin’s supervision has continued. The results will be published in the Club’s 1967 accident report.Fred Ayers and Bob Pierce spent most of the summer climbing...
Kangchungtse or Makalu II. A four-man Japanese group from Denki-Tsushin University led by Tadashige Nishiyama from Base Camp on the Barun Glacier reconnoitered Kangchungtse (25,066 feet), which was first climbed by French in 1954. They established...
Various ascents. On an expedition I led to the Cordillera Oriental with Tim Riley, we did several climbs. Our first climb, on August 9, was of a nameless ca. 5,200m peak that extends from the long ridge west-southwest of Nevado Huaguruncho. We cli...