Helvellyn to Himalaya, by F. Spencer Chapman. 8 vo., 285 pages, with illustrations and maps. London: Chatto & Windus, 1940. Price 18 s.This is a fine book by one of a number of younger British climbers who have acquired their taste and experie...

California, Mt. San Gorgonio—A party of 11 boys with C. L. Finch (a school teacher) as a leader, was visiting Big Falls Canyon. Finch warned the boys to stay in a group, but Donald Burns (13) and one other boy, either failing to hear the order or ...

Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. (An excellent overview of the new Valley speed ascents appears earlier in this journal in an article by Timothy O’Neill. The information provided there supplements the routes and times described below.—Editor)In ...

FALL, INEXPERIENCE—Colorado, Mt. Royal. Mark Baines (16) was attempting a climb of Mt. Royal with a friend when he fell to his death. (Source: Paul Johnson, Summit County Rescue Group.)Analysis: In this geographic area, as well as Mt. Evans, the w...

Khan Tengri, International Speed Climbing Competition, Kirghizstan. In order to compete, Conrad Anker and I were graciously hosted at the climbing camp on the South Inylchek Glacier in mid-August. This unique event is essentially a high-altitude r...

Mount Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Second Ascent. Phil Ershler, leader, Michael Semansky, Paul Slota, Mark Rowan and I made the second ascent of the long ridge, starting over Mount Crosson and P 12,472, going 3½ miles along the ridge to gain the northe...

CORNICE COLLAPSEYukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mt. LoganMatthew Maytag, Dale Sturtz, Robert Donahoe, John Woodland, Andrew Campbell, and David Conley were setting up Camp V on the Warbler Ridge of Mt. Logan at 2130 hours on 7 July 1978. The cor...

Annapurna South, New Route in Winter. A five-member Russian team led by Vladimir Bachkirov succeeded on a new route on Annapurna South (7219 meters) in December. Climbing with no Sherpas, no fixed camps, no fixed ropes, and no artificial oxygen, B...

Rasac, East Face. A light Chilean expedition composed of G. Cas- sasa, A. Izquierdo, M. Riesco and E. Saavedra, placed a base camp near Jahuacocha lake and on July 18, attempted the S.W. ridge of Yerupajá Sur, reaching almost 20,000 ft., and were ...

Champs Elysees Glacier, Various Ascents. It was reported that in late July, on the Champs Elysees Glacier, a five-member British all-women’s group (Lisa Holliday, Pippa Manson, Lizzy Popham, Catrin Thomas and Clare Waddington) made an extended tou...

The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1964 Ski Camp was held at Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park and “Sunshine and Powder,” enchanting words to a skier, describe a very fine holiday for those who attended. Snow conditions were variable, but in genera...

Middle Teton, Northwest Ice Couloir. This couloir lies to the west of the usual north ridge route and has been partially climbed in the past, but never so completely nor so early as the ascent on June 16 by Pete Lev and Jim Greig. This party trave...

Northern Selkirks. If old timers thought that airdrops were a symbol of modern decadence, let them harken now to the advent of the helicopter. For some time now, a whirlybird has been used by the Canadian Geological Survey in the Interior Ranges, ...

Interim Report on Patagonian Climbing in the 1982-3 Climbing Season. My husband Gino Buscaini and I were in Patagonia from the middle of November to the middle of January 1983. We attempted Fitz Roy three times, once by the Chouinard route and twi...

Stay Puft Buttress. The Stay Puft Buttress (1,700' V 5.10 A1) was established by Josh Borof and Paul Emrick on June 19, in scorching hot weather. The route starts on top of the huge boulder about 400 feet from the river in the S.F.O.B. Gully and a...

Aconcagua, West Buttress. In early January Dr. Gene Mason, Ralph Mackey and Dr. Richard Hill made a new route on the west buttress of Aconcagua (22,835 feet). The ascent took them seven days from the Plaza de Mulas. The route led up two chutes. Th...

Quarry Peak, New Route. In September, Fred Beckey and I climbed a route on the right side of the wide east face of this peak. The climb follows wide crack systems through an area of orange rock. (III, 5.8.)Gary Slate, D.L.F.A. Cimbers

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATEDWashington, Mount RainierOn the morning of July 17, 1981, Peter Brookes (26) and Robert Schreiber (29) were climbing Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. They were climbing unroped and started their climb ...

OVERDUE, WEATHER, EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 21, RMNP dispatch received a missing/overdue climbing party report concerning John McBroom (47) and Terrance Ford (42) on Kiener’s Route ...

Spantik, Southeast Ridge. Our expedition, consisting of Yoshiharu Murata, leader, M. Kamei, H. Shibata, Y. Shiro, M. Sakai and me, established Base Camp at the junction (14,350 feet) of the Chogolungma Glacier and its Basin Glacier on July 11. We ...