Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On May 11, John D. Graham (65) and his party approached the summit of Mount McKinley. The wind was from the southwest at their back. With his all-down outfit, he did not realize it was 40 below zero. Felix Julen came towards ...
HYPOTHERMIA, PARTY SEPARATED, BAD WEATHERColorado, Mt. AliceA party of eight experienced mountaineers departed Grand Lake on March 7, 1980, and skied to Lone Pine Lake where they spent the night in snow caves. The next morning, all eight persons s...
Dhaulagiri I, Solo Ascent. The Dutch climber Bart Vos reported he reached the top of the seventh highest mountain in the world, Dhaulagiri I, alone on October 17, the first Dutch mountaineer ever to gain this 8167-meter summit. He had chosen to as...
Chimney Rock, First Winter Ascent. The first week of winter found the Cascades under the influence of steady high pressure. Feeling the need to complete unfinished business, Pat McNerthney and I again headed for Chimney Rock, this year with Greg C...
New Hampshire, White Mountains, Mt. Adams. On 30 December Charles Button and Owen Ferrini and 8 others climbed Mt. Adams in -25 to -30°F weather and 30-70 mph winds. On their return as they faced into the wind Button and Ferrini suffered severe f...
North Face of the Saskatchewan Mountain Massif, The Silver Lining. On April 5, Barry Blanchard, Steve House and I left the Big Bend parking lot on the Icefields Parkway and skied several kilometers toward the toe of the Saskatchewan Glacier. Our o...
Northern Rockies Section. In September, Doug Colwell, after close to 10 years as Section chair, passed the baton to Brian Cabe. Much thanks to Doug for his past and continued service to the Club.Zone II of Castle Rocks State Park opened to new rou...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our staff responded to 18 major incidents this year, including frostbite, altitude illness, trauma, and cardiac illness. In an unusual turn of events, two clients from separate guided groups experienced ...
Baruntse Attempt. A ten-person French expedition failed to climb Baruntse. After establishing two high camps, the leader Robert Maudin, his wife Marie- Claire and Pierre Robin reached a high point of 20,675 feet on October 11. The climb was abando...
Iowa Mountaineers. During 1958 the Club sponsored 13 weekend climbing outings to Wisconsin and Illinois, as well as 12 enjoyable dinner-hikes, with mountain programs, by members or guests. Approximately 450 different members participated in these ...
Ohmi Kangri. Our Swiss expedition managed to make the first ascent of the main peak of Ohmi Kangri in northeast Nepal, a mountain that has been confused with Nupchu. We ascended the Tamur valley to reach Base Camp, beyond Yangma village, at 5130 m...
Aguja St. Exupery, West Face, Attempt. Greg Crouch and J. Jay Brooks (U.S.) attempted to climb a new route on the west face of Aguja St. Exupery to the right of Chiaro di Luna, but despite many valiant attempts in less than ideal weather, they wer...
Lhotse Shar Tragedy. On September 27, four of the Spanish Catalan expedition that was trying to repeat the Austrian route on Lhotse Shar left Camp IV at 7350 meters on the southeast ridge, intending to set up Camp V at 7850 meters. At noon they fa...
Neptuno, Guerrero de Luz. I saw this south-facing wall in 2000, but we couldn’t reach it because we couldn’t get a permit to cross private land. This time, with my friends Artemia and Odin, I drove from our home in Jilotzingo, taking nine hours to...
FALLING ROCKSUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm MountainOn February 17th, Kris (27) was hit by spontaneous rockfall while practicing solo aid-climbing on Six-appeal, a 5.6 bolted route at the Storm Mountain picnic area in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Th...
WILLIAM ADAMS BROWN 1865-1943As we go to press comes news of the passing of an original member of the club, of whom now only half-a-dozen remain. Less than a month ago, Dr. Brown attended the annual dinner where he was noticed in animated conversa...
Asgard Range, Various Ascents. This past January, I climbed with Thai Verzone in Antarctica’s Asgard Range as part of a SAR training exercise. The trip was very favorable on the work-to-play ratio. Our maps of the area were poor, so we had the hel...
Sangay. Although Sangay (5323 meters, 17,463 feet) was no first ascent, it will be useful to give information for anyone who decides to go there. Jim Velie, my brother Dana and I set off from Quito to Riobamba by bus, where for about $8 we hired a...
Mount Cairnes, Kluane Range. Our ascent of Mount Cairnes (9150 feet), east of Vulcan, was, I gather, not a first ascent, but I have not found out who made the first. On August 31, Martyn Williams, Selmyn Hughes and I made an exploratory climb onto...
Colorado, South Maroon Bell. On 4 July Bruce Markel (18), Laurie Ashley and John Markel were separated from a group climbing the Bells. In crossing a snow couloir with Bruce in the lead, Bruce slipped and fell. He slid about 500 feet on snow and t...