FALL ON ICE, ROPE SEVERED ON JAGGED ROCKSPennsylvania, Toby Creek, Buttermilk FallsPolice in Luzerne County say Luke Wolfgang (age not reported) fell 30-40 feet when his rope was cut on jagged rocks as he tried to climb the Buttermilk Falls area o...
Cho Aui. Cho Aui lies on the Tibetan-Nepalese frontier west of Cho Oyu. The leader of this ten-man Himalayan Association of Japan expedition was Hiroshi Yajima. After approaching via Xigar, they got to Base Camp near the Gyabrag Glacier at 5800 me...
Hraundrangi, in Öxnadal. Two members of the Icelandic Air Ground Rescue Team, Finnur Eyjolfsson and Sigurdur Waage, accompanied by Lieut. Nicholas B. Clinch, USAF, accomplished the first ascent of Hraundrangi, August 5-6, 1956. The peak stands nea...
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, 1993. Spanish Catalans, Marc Arbós and Jaume Clotet, climbed a 600-meter-high new route in the center of the east face of Snowpatch Spire, which they rated at 6a, A3. They were on the face for three days and two nights, ...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, North Conway, Cathedral LedgeAt the end of May 1991, two climbers were standing on the ledge below The Book of Solemnity on Cathedral Ledge. One of the climbers was struck on his helmet by a rock; the helmet was split bu...
P 6903, Kunlun. Our expedition had as general leader Dr. Chotaro Naka-jima, as climbing members Hironori Ito, Naoki Mohri, Hidetomo Shirai and Masaharu Mutsuyoshi and me as climbing leader. The original plan was to start from Kashi, go east via Ye...
Absaroka RangeA probable first ascent of Mt. Index in N. W. Park County was made on September 24th by G. Haas, J. Makowski, P. D. Smith, from a timberline camp on the N. W. side. An involved route led from the saddle connecting with Pilot Peak, an...
Mount Evans, Various Ascents. On August 8, Greg Crouch and I climbed Captain Calamari (six pitches, 5.9+ R A1), which lies to the left of the steep gully system that splits the Black Wall amphitheater (right of Roofer Madness) on Mount Evans. The ...
SLIP ON SNOW, INADEQUATE FOOTWEARAlaska, Mount McKinleyIn June, 1993, I was on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley with six fellow Californians. Three days into the trip we were camped at the base of Ski Hill (7,700 feet). We had a dug-in kitchen ...
Pumori, west face, new route. A five-man expedition comprising four Swiss and one American split into two groups with three of the team attempting the south ridge and the other two, Swiss guides, Ueli Bühler and Ueli Steck, opting for the west fac...
Uli Biaho Tower, South Buttress, 1989. In late May of 1989, Nick Craddock, Paul Rogers, Murray Judge and I arrived at Base Camp at the confluence of the Trango and Baltoro Glaciers. We were to attempt the southeast face of the Uli Biaho Tower, usi...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR SETUP, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake CragOn October 6, a climber was being lowered by her partner in order to retrieve her protection slings after leading the route “Top Gun” (5.7). Aft...
Gaugiri, second and third ascents by a new route. The 6,110m Gaugiri in upper Mustang, first ascended in 2002 via the southwest ridge by Peter Ackroyd and Jim Frush, as noted above, received second and third ascents in 2003. On September 8, Josep ...
Mt. Shand. The peak which rises to about 13,000 ft. ten miles S.E. of Mt. Hayes in the Alaska Range has been officially named Mt. Shand by the Board on Geographic Names. Temporarily called Mt. Bagley, the peak was climbed on 12 August 1941 by the ...
Wyoming Rockies Teton RangeAlthough the 1937 climbing season in the Tetons was shorter than usual (June 24th-September 17th), a large number of mountaineers visited the region, concentrating upon Grand Teton and Mt. Owen. Six of the eight establis...
Ama Dablam Attempt. An expedition of four Austrians and two Germans was under the leadership of Günther Kerber. They reached a highpoint of 6100 meters on the normal southwest ridge on April 19.Elizabeth Hawley
Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route. From August 8 to 12 Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of the Shafat Fortress (ca 19,500'), via the east face. The 21-pitch Colorado Route is 1,000m, VI 5.11 M6 C1, and merits a feature article in this...
lliniza Sur, La Araña. On September 4, Joe Deck and Larry Goolsby of Bellingham, Washington, ascended lliniza Sur (5266 m) via a new route on the west face. The first part of the ascent involves a glacier traverse from the Refugio Nuevo Horizontes...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, SNOW CONDITIONS—NÉVÉOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn September 6, Mark Fraas (40) fell 1500 feet down the Cooper Spur after losing his footing.AnalysisThere have been at least 13 fatalities on the Cooper Spur. All ...
Basket Dome. In September 1982 Doug Scott and I did a largely new route on this dome, which sits on the rim facing Half Dome. We began in the jumble of dihedrals at the spur of the southeast side, followed the giant comer known as Straight Jacket ...