Italian Hindu Kush Expedition. A scientific expedition led by Prof. Ardito Desio visited the Hindu Kush from the Afghan side. Two members climbed an unnamed peak of 16,437 feet in the Koh-i-Baba range and another of more than 13,000 feet in the Ko...
Mt. Murchison (S. E. Tower, 10,659 ft.). 1940 first ascent by H. S. Hall, Jr., E. Feus, Jr. From camp used by Cromwell-Engel- hard party (see Guidebook), by way of the glacier between the objective and the N. Tower. Ascent 5.5 h.; intervening sadd...
French Expedition to Staunings Alps, East Greenland, 1968. An expedition from the Aix-les-Bains section of the French Alpine Club made a number of difficult ascents during August of 1968. These are listed in La Montagne of December, 1968 on page 377.
Yamnuska, South Face and Mount Temple, North Face. Bojan Pograjc, Nejc Škov and I climbed in the Canadian Rockies from June 25 to August 4. We made two possibly new routes. The first was on the south face of Yamnuska, a 400-meter high rock face ne...
California, Inyo National Forest, Shadow Lake Area. On 24 August a party from “Outward Bound” from Pasadena left Agnew Meadow (8,600 ft.) and camped at a small lake (8,200 ft.) about two miles from the end of the road. A 17-year-old member of the ...
Pumari Chhish. Our expedition was composed of Susumu Ogasawara, Hideo Yokoyama, Yoshimasa Chiba, Katsutoshi Kariya, Kenji Hirooka, Koichi Minami, Michio Hayashi, Michihiro Kanno, Mitsuo Shiroishi, Masaki Ohashi, Shigeki Chiba and me as leader. We ...
K2 Attempt and Broad Peak. Our expedition arrived at Base Camp on June 2. From June 13 until July 20 we spent most of the five weeks in uninterrupted bad weather. We could not climb higher than Camp II at 22,650 feet on the Abruzzi spur. Continuou...
Mount Logan. After a seven-day wait at Glennallen, Alaska, Dick Beach and Rich Gnagy were flown onto the glacier to start our climb of Mount Logan by the standard King Trench route; Bill Feldman, Alex McDermott and I waited another nine days at Ma...
Bugaboo Spire. S. W. summit only. August 20, 1938. S. Austin, R. Brinton, G. Dawson, M. Dawson, H. Fuller. Weather and snow conditions prevented attainment of highest point.
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn July 24,1987, a party of three attempted to climb and descend the Wishbone Arete in one day. They were attempting a lightweight climb, carrying no stove or sl...
Lhotse Shar, Southwest Face. Our expedition, originally planned for 1983, managed to make a new route on Lhotse Shar, the southwest face. We were Dr. Leoš Chládek, Emil Fornay, František Dostál, Peter Božik, Zoltán Demján, Zdizlav Drlík, Róbert Gá...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. This was a somewhat unusual year for the section in that there were two “Annual Banquets.’’ The first one, in February, presented two speakers. Gary Rose showed slides of recent climbs in the Bella Coola Mountains of Briti...
Lhotse Attempt. Germans Gerhard Lenser and Michael Holz hoped to try Lhotse (27,923 feet) from the east but failed to find approach routes to the mountain. In early April they found their way barred by a formidable ice wall. They rested briefly at...
Tunshu, Direct Northeast Face. To reach Tunshu (5,730m), take the main highway from Lima to Huancayo through Oroya and Pachacallo. From there take the road to Hauylacancha Lake (60km, 3 hrs), and then to Siuracoha Lake and base camp, in the morain...
GUY MATTHEW ANDREWS1959-1980I first met Guy in 1975 just after his 16th birthday. His mother had arranged a climbing lesson as a birthday gift and I was glad for the day outside and the extra money. These chance meetings we have with people someti...
Manaslu and Dhaulagiri, Ascents. Ed Viesturs and his Finnish partner, Veikka Gustafsson, surmounted Manaslu (8163m) and then Dhaulagiri I (8167m), the world’s eighth- and seventh-highest mountains, in one month of climbing. They had no Sherpas, no...
Saipal Attempt. Six Swiss and two Frenchmen led by Denis Bertholet failed to climb Saipal. They reached 5200 meters on October 20 on the north face and 5800 meters on October 22 on the northeast ridge but had to give up because of deep snow and av...
Saraghrar, First Ascent of the West Wall. The Shizuoka Tohan Club Expedition was led by Reisuke Akiyama. It made the first ascent of the west wall of Saraghrar. Having got through the perpendicular rock faces and ridges, Yukio Katsumi, Minoru Naka...
Antarctic Peninsula brief summary. The Antarctic Peninsula was surprisingly quiet this year, with only two expeditions attempting mountain objectives. During November and December the Omega Foundation conducted its fifth Antarctic expedition in as...
Tocllaraju, Ishinca. Our expedition climbed Tocllaraju after having failed on Ranrapalca. Glacial conditions were very different from those found by the Swiss in 1963, on which we had based our plans. We found on Ranrapalca a ridge too thin to sup...