Bhagirathi II. A 26-member team from the Indian Special Frontier Force was led by Colonel H.B.S. Phokela. They set up Base Camp at Nandandan on May 11 and Advance Base in a bowl below Vasuki Parbat on May 17. Six members set out from there on May ...

Phabrang. This 20,250-foot peak in Chamba Lahoul was climbed on August 20 by all three members of a British team and Indian liaison officer, Flying Officer Vinod Buglani. The mountain had been climbed only once before by a Japanese team.Kamal K. G...

Kangtega, Northeast Buttress. The German Alpine Club (DAV) Training Expedition was led by me. After an 11-day approach from Jiri, we set up Base Camp on September 21 at 4900 meters on the moraine-covered Hinku Nup Glacier. It snowed for the next w...

HARRY C. MCDADE, M.D. 1924-1997In last year’s In Memoriam, Bill Putnam tells well of Harry McDade’s honors from surgery, his remarkable mountain rescue work and his AAC Sowles Award. During his 33 years as a club member, Harry climbed or piloted h...

FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount Rainier, McClure RockOn July 4, Mr. Wilkinson (47) was descending the mountain following an Alpine Ascents International (AAI) summit trip. About 2015, Wilkinson tripped over his crampon and fe...

Täsclihorn; South Face. This wall was climbed for the second time on June 28th, 1935 by Alexander Taugwalder and Karl Biner. Starting from the Täschalp in a drizzle, the foot of the face was reached at 7 a.m. They started up the left bank of the g...

Ames Fall, Near Telluride. The winter of 1975-6 was one of the mildest for years in Colorado. I had done only one short ice climb, leaving me ill-prepared for the shock of my first view of Ames Fall. No previous description could compare to its cl...

Mount Proboscis, Crazy Horse. On July 30, pilot Warren LaFave flew Simon Elias (Spain), Chad McMullen and me onto Glacier Lake below the Cirque of the Unclimbables. LaFave arranged a helicopter to then fly us, and our mountain gear, to the base of...

DISLOCATED KNEE—FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION New Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn July 3, 1992, Mark Chauvin was guiding on Standard and had gone about 35 feet up the Toe Crack to a belay ledge when his first student, who was doing the crux layback ...

Sad Ishtragh Group, Darrah-e-Qalat. The North of England Expedition was made up of Michael Anderson, New Zealand, Miss Terry Funk, Switzerland, Michael Hosted, my wife Dawn and me. We drove to Kabul and used local transport from Kunduz to Eshkashe...

Returning from an ascent of Putha Hiunchuli, where on May 7 all our expedition members reached the 7,246m summit in progression douce—snail-style—I escaped to the arêtes of Putha Himal, a long ridge between Putha Hiunchuli and Churen Himal. Leavin...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The club was very active during 1959, both locally and on the "big mountains.” There were several club expeditions, the principal one of which was the Nepalese expedition with John Humphreys, John Noxon, Frederick Dunn...

Double Peak, East Face. On June 29, Mark Ronca and I made the first ascent of this sheer face on the northeast summit of Double Peak (6,199') in Mt. Rainier National Park. The six-pitch climb followed an obvious crack system on the left side of th...

Middle Cathedral Rock, North East-Buttress Route. Late in July Frank Sacherer and I climbed the east buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock by a new route. This route starts to the west of the east buttress route established by Harding in 1954, and asc...

Mountains, by Carroll Lane, and Mildred Adams, Fenton. 8 vo., 160 pages including 34 devoted to photographs (2 in color) and 29 to drawings. New York: Doubleday Doran and Co., Inc., 1942.The text of this book is obviously addressed to quite youthf...

Oregon, Coast Range, near Bandon—On Sunday 16 November, Ronald D. Martin (15) and Gene Lloyd Davison (15) attempted to climb a 200 foot sea cliff above a beach where they had been looking for agates. Apparently a large rock became dislodged, hit M...

North Dome, My Own Private Idaho. During June 21-23, Matt and Jennifer Pollard and I established a line on North Dome in the unexplored territory between Freak Show and North to the Bone. My Own Private Idaho (V 5.10 A2) uses the big right-facing ...

FALL, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS—Colorado, Quandry Mountain. Donald Gordon (21), Michael Bearzi (24), and William Trull (22) were climbing on the north face of Quandry Mountain on May 29. They started from McCullough Gulch at 8:30 a.m...

Kok Sel, Xinjiang. A 17-member Japanese expedition led by Eiji Kamei climbed for the first time a 6705-meter (21,998-foot) peak in the Kongur group, which they called Kok Sel. After establishing Base Camp at 4600 meters on August 1, they placed th...

Robert Gerhard, Ranger, Mount McKinley National ParkMount Foraker, Sultana Ridge. Roger Cowles, Brian Okonek and I made the second winter ascent of Foraker on March 15 by a route which had been unsuccessfully tried eight times. Eight-and-a-half mi...