Southwest Section. After an extended period of dormancy, the Southwest Section was revitalized in 2005. It began with a formal complaint letter sent to the Club’s headquarters, filled with threats of canceled membership dues, and was replied to wi...
Tordrillo Mountains, first full-length traverse. Over nine days in May, Andrew Wexler, Dylan Taylor, and I, using skis, made the first full-length traverse of the Tordrillo Mountains. We covered 100 miles from south to north, climbing 38,000 verti...
Baruntse, North Summit. A four-man Netherlands team led by Joost Ubbink attempted to follow the route of the French attempted in the spring of 1980 and the Americans in the autumn of the same year, onto the north ridge from the western side. Ubbin...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Although the H.M.C. sponsored no expeditions of its own last summer, its members were active in various parts of the climbing world. Andrew Kauffman and Tom Nevinson were members of the successful Hidden Peak Expeditio...
Kirat Chuli Attempt. A joint British-Nepalese Army expedition was led by Major Michael Kefford and Major Gaurav S.J.B. Rana. Snowstorms depositing much new snow and later strong winds defeated their attempt to scale Nepal Peak via its south ridge ...
Aguja Mermoz, Vela y Viento. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold (G) climbed a new route on the east buttress of Aguja Mermoz that they named Vela y Viento (5.12 b/c ED, 500m). They finished on January 9, after several weeks of attempts with the use of f...
Lhotse Shar, East Ridge Attempt. Alan Burgess, Joe Frank, Dick Jackson and I had hoped to traverse from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse via Lhotse Middle. We arrived at Base Camp on August 28 and established staging camp at 19,000 feet from where we could f...
Pico Candela, new routes. [Located north of Monterrey off Highway 1 and split by the border between Coahuila and Nuevo León, but accessed from Coahuila, this obvious 1,000' granite spire has received numerous shorter routes recently, bringing the ...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATEDOregon, Middle SisterOn August 15, Trent Gabel (16) fell to his death, most likely from dislodging rocks, while attempting to climb a route on Middle Sister. He was with Pathfinders Youth Group from Tillamook, and at t...
JOSEPH BELFIELD McINTYRE 1873-1943Only with the new year did we learn that Mr. McIntyre died at his home in Providence on July 20, 1943. He joined the Club in 1924, but was almost unknown to our present membership. His son, Paul Roper McIntyre (19...
Mt. Rae, New Route. On February 4, a new route, Stray Beaker (Grade III), on the southern face of Peak 1848 (Mt. Rae), was climbed solo from the west end of Lake Hoare (58m) in the Taylor Valley. This massif lies directly to the north of the lake ...
P 2100, Kap Farvel, 1974 and 1986. Beyond Kangikitsoq on the right bank of the fjord rises imposing P 2100 (6890 feet). At the beginning of August in 1974, Claude Aulard, Alan Douglas and I climbed a difficult 1200-meter-high route up the great co...
Mount Maxwell and Peaks above the Kaskawulsh Basin. The second small expedition of the Paris Section of the French Alpine Club took place from July 30 to August 24. We were Jean Bernard Givet, Jacques Deyme, Philippe Montufet, Steve and Pierre Cha...
Colorado, Independence Pass, Grizzly Peak. On 8 August Michael T. Doyle (25) and Peter Abplanalp (25) were climbing Grizzly Peak from Grizzly Lake with Michael in the lead and Peter belaying. At the time of the accident Michael was climbing out of...
Howser Peak, North Face, Bugaboos. Eric Bjornstad joined me to climb this seldom visited Bugaboo peak in late July. We crossed a bergschrund below and to the right of a giant, menacing ice cliff, then headed up a 50° snow finger between the ice an...
Mt. Elbrus, Refuge of 11 Hut Fire. The Refuge of 11—the famous high-altitude hut on Mount Elbrus—was completely destroyed by fire on August 16. This site for the hut was first used in 1909 when 11 Russian climbers spent a night here before climbin...
Istor-o-Nal North I. We climbed Istor-o-Nal North I on the 1967 Lapuch’s Austrian route, which was repeated in 1976 by Naar’s Dutch expedition. We were Horst-Jürgen Stierle, Klaus-Jürgen Cramer, Norbert Kraus, Anita Burk- hardt and I as leader. We...
Gangapurna North Face. A small Slovene team reached the summit of Gangapuma (7455 meters, 24,457 feet) in the Annapurna Himal by the previously unclimbed north face. Rok Kolar and Stanko Mihev completed a three-day push on October 1. The other mem...
Puscanturpa Norte, Northwest Face. An Italian expedition led by Graziano Bianchi and composed of Felice Boselli, Giuseppe Buizza, Giuseppe Caneva, Agostino Da Polenza, Carlo Milani, Gino Mora and Edoardo Pozzoli returned to Puscanturpa Norte, whic...
Trisul II, attempt. An 11-member expedition from Calcutta, led by Amitava Roy, attempted Trisul II, a 6,690m peak situated above the Bidalgwar Glacier. This peak was first climbed by a former Yugoslavian expedition in 1960 (by the Japanese in 1978...