On June 5, 13 Americans, forming the second part of an exchange between the AAC and the Alpine Club of Iran (ACI), arrived in Tehran. The first part of the exchange took place in the Tetons during July 2010.On our first afternoon we drove through ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OFF ROUTE,EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Levenworth, Castle RockAs part of the 1989 Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course Rock II field trip, six climbers went to Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon nea...
ALFRED LOWRY CASTLE 1884-1972Alfred Castle was born in Honolulu on March 18, 1884, went to Hotchkiss School and received his LL.B. from Harvard in 1906. He began the practice of law in his father’s firm, Castle and Withington, and later with Rober...
Scottish winter season summary. It is early April as I write this. Despite the birdsong and spring flowers, here in Northern England, 90 miles south of the Scottish border, it’s snowing. Up in the Scottish Highlands the cliffs are buried beneath b...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers’ Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Ron Eng, continues to maintain a long-standing focus on alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. However, the program has continued to expand significantly. In ...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, The DiamondOn July 20, Carloyn Davis (27) became stranded while rappelling down The Diamond (East Face). She and her partner had climbed the Casual Route (grad...
Travel and Ascents South of BanffJ. W. A. HicksonOTHER companions having failed, Edward Feuz, Jr., and the writer set out from Banff on August 8 last to revisit the scenes of a trip made nine years earlier and to push farther south than we did the...
BELAY FAILURE: A ROPE PARALLEL TO A CREVASSE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. Rick Kirschner (27) and John M. Loehr (24) left Camp Muir on Mt. Ranier at 9 p.m. on 24 July 1974, for a summit climb via the Fuhrer’s Finger route. They were tied together by o...
Manuel D’Alpinisme. Two volumes, 8 vo. Chambéry : Librairie Dardel, 1934.With the evolution of Alpinism rapidly going on, the technic of mountain climbing is progressively more complex. It is natural then that new books on Alpine craft should appe...
Karakoram SummerA prolific month of new~routing in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.Steve HouseSeptember 2003, Hushe village, BaltistanAs I clean, dry, and pack expedition supplies into plastic drums, I review the climbing season that just ended, hi...
Granite Mountain. A pocket guide to rock climbing in Granite Basin, Prescott National Forest, Arizona, by David Lovejoy. Prescott, Arizona: Published on a grant from The Prescott Institutions, 1973. 120 pages, numerous photographs, drawings and di...
FALL ON HARD SNOW—CRAMPONS ICED UP, UNABLE TO SELFARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, Palmer GlacierOn June 11, Andy March (32) was descending from the summit of Mount Hood about noon when his crampons became “iced up,” and he was unable to clear them by ta...
Traverse of West Temple and Towers of the Virgin. On the spring equinox, Dan Stih and I made a complete traverse of the West Temple and the Towers of the Virgin. The idea materialized while making the first ascents of the towers in the winter of 1...
El Capitan, Heart of Darkness. In August 1982 Peter Mayfield, Auggie Klein and I attempted a new route taking the thin seams to the right of the North America Wall, planning to continue up the black diorite right of the Sea of Dreams. Though we ga...
Alaska, Mendenhall Glacier. On March 19, Roger Morris (19), Gale Good (19), and Jerry Dove (19) roped together were climbing on the Mendenhall Glacier. One of the party slipped into a crevasse and pulled one companion after him. The rope broke nea...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mt. WhitneyOn December 29, 1980, Steven Goolsby (30) was descending an ice hard snowfield below the trail crest with his two companions when he slipped and fell 1,400 feet ...
Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I, Ascents. A Korean team of four climbing members and an equal number of Sherpas under the leadership of Sung Soon-Je, who himself did not climb, scaled both Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri I in the pre-monsoon season. They ...
Mount Johannesburg, Northeast Face. On December 22, John Stoddard and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Mount Johannesburg. From a bivouac under a sérac on the hanging glacier, we climbed the couloir formed by a fault on the left side...
New York, Shawangunks. On 10 November Sandra Satterthwaite and her leader had finished their climb and were returning to the Uber Fall via the foot path unroped as is usually done. As she climbed down a short face she stepped past the ledge that w...
Mt. Quadra, Gimme Shelter. In March, Alain Massin and Steve Pratt managed the second ascent of Gimme Shelter on Mt. Quadra. First climbed over two days in 1983 by Kevin Doyle and Tim Friesen with exceptionally thin ice for seven pitches, it was ea...