FALLING/DISLODGED ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Easy Day PeakOn August, 9 at 1100, while following the first Pitch of the North Face route on Easy Day Peak (11,660 feet), Mark Gallagher pulled a large block off onto himself, and sustained injurie...
Pico Integral, Southwest Face. On August 24, Joe Stock and I left La Paz at 3 a.m. for the southwest face of Pico Integral, a “small” satellite peak of Huayna Potosi. The southwest face of Pico Integral (18,640') may have been climbed in earlier y...
Charles Duncan Fowler 1954-2006I first met Charlie Fowler in about 1977 in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado. Already Charlie had made his vision-altering free solos of the Diamond on Long’s Peak and the DNB on Middle Cathedral Rock in Yosemite. T...
Mount Everest, Fifth Ascent. The expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club had 23 climbers, four doctors, three scientists and nine journalists, plus 45 Sherpas. The overall leader was 71-year-old Saburo Matsukata; climbing leader was Hiromi Otsuka. ...
Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward route, second ascent. Steve House and I were flown to the Mountain House on September 17. Dry conditions made this the only landing site available. That afternoon we skied down the...
Purcell Range, British Columbia: Bugaboo Spire. On 4 August 1948 a party of four climbers, Rudolph Pundt, Robert Becker, Ann Strong and Ian MacKinlay, reached the summit of Bugaboo Spire. They were members of a large group of Sierra Club and Stanf...
A First Season in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienLAST summer I visited the Bernese Oberland for the first time, with Adolf Rubi as my guide, and was fortunate enough to do some half dozen varied and interesting climbs. The first trip that we planned...
The Fiord Region of Greenland, by Louise A. Boyd. New York: The American Geographical Society.Edited by a modest feminine explorer, a readable account of a region overflowing with unique examples of geological and physiographic features, this admi...
Noshaq. On August 15 Günter Virt, leader, and Edmund Prandstetter of the Austrian Hindu Kush Expedition (Austria Section, Vienna) climbed both the west summit (24,580 feet) of Noshaq. On the 20th Michael Hasslinger, Karl Mahrer and Peter Reischer ...
Skyang Kangri Attempt. Our lightweight expedition, consisting of Jeff Lowe and me, attempted Skyang Kangri (7544 meters, 24,750 feet) alpine-style. May 27 saw us in Dasso, May 30 in Askole and June 6 at the site of the French Base Camp at the foot...
Unnamed (10,700 ft.). One mile W. of Mt. Forbes. 1940 first ascent by R. Bosworth, D. M. Woods and one other. By the usual route up Mt. Forbes to within 100 ft. below the W. col, thence turning W. and cutting or kicking steps up the steep snow slo...
JAN CHRISTIAAN SMUTS1870-1950One of the great men of our time was the late General Smuts of South Africa.He sought rest, relaxation and spiritual uplift in the hills and open spaces of his homeland, often alone, when harassed by the trials and car...
San Mateo Sea Cliffs, California: Devil’s Slide. On 17 August 1947 a local practice group from the Sierra Club was climbing on cliffs of disintegrating granite south of San Francisco. John Hood, leading an unfamiliar route, had placed three pitons...
The Second American Expedition to K2Chappel Cranmer and Fritz WiessnerThe Journey to BasecampWhen permission for an American Alpine Club attempt on K2 was granted in December, 1938, the mountain seemed impossibly far away for us to reach by summer...
Copier Pinnacle, A Little Less Conversation. On April 16, 2006, my best friend Hans Copier committed suicide. Two weeks after his death I, with Dutch climbers Roland Bekendam and Rens Horn, set out for the Stewart Valley, attempting to climb an un...
FAILURE TO CHECK MEDICATION LABELAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 3, 1985, at the 4300 meter level, the subject involved (32) was applying “Preparation H” to hemorrhoids, theoretically…Instead, the subject had grabbed the wrongmedication—a tube of Be...
Marmolejo Group. Bonacossa, Boccalatte, Zanetti, Binaghi, and Gervasutti made an attempt on the Marmolejo itself but were forced back by bad weather and lack of time. The two latter climbers resolved to stay and make some climbs. On March 23rd the...
Editor's note: The following report describes an incident that resulted in the death of Keith Abbe, 24, after a bee attack and fall at Camelback Mountain. Dear Climbing Community: My name is Jeff, and I am the climber who survived this incident....
Mount McArthur, East Face Direct. On August 4, Rich Lambe and I gained the Glacier des Poilus from the large alpine meadow below the south face of Isolated Peak. We crossed the bergschrund of Mount McArthur directly beneath the summit and attacked...
Following previous Scottish Mountaineering Club expeditions to the Staunings Alps of Northeast Greenland in 1996 and 1998, our party of six (J. Fairey, C. Jones, C. Ravey, B. Shackleton, N. Walmsley, and me) was lifted by helicopter from the coast...