Nanda Khat (6,611m), east spur and north ridge. Situated immediately west of Traill’s Pass, Nanda Khat has been a much-attempted peak, though few have reached the main summit. In premonsoon, a team of seven male and five female climbers, organized...

Aconcagua and Patagonia. The joint expedition of Nagoya University and the Tokai Branch of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Kentaro Takagi and composed of Kunitoshi Ishiwara, Shigeru Ando, Tetsuo Ando, Toshiyasu Takai, Takashi Nakaseko, Makoto ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The RookOn May 6, at 1900, Jorge Arias (40) was leading the final pitch of Cheap Date III, 5.10b, on The Book. Arias fell 20 feet from a point about 50 feet from the top o...

Longemain (6,294m) and Daddomain (6,380m), first ascents. The excitement started early on this trip. Originally heading to eastern Tibet, our permits were cancelled the day before we headed to Lhasa from Chengdu. Some parties had evidently annoyed...

This is the fourteenth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and it is with great pleasure that we announce that we are including those accidents that occur in Canada in this report. This has been made possible with the...

Mount Rainier, Liberty Wall. On June 30 Roger Oborn, Don Jones and I completed the first ascent of Liberty Wall, so named because it is a large cirque wall between Liberty Ridge and Ptarmigan Ridge, and below the Liberty Cap Glacier on Liberty Cap...

Grand Teton, East Face. I made a new climb solo on the east face of the Grand Teton on July 14, 1979. After about 250 feet of scrambling above the top of Teepee’s Glacier to a point about 50 feet left (south) of the prominent wet dihedral, I follo...

RejuvenationAn invigorating trio of new routes in India’s Bhagirathi group.Marko PrezeljAfter my expedition to Makalu in the fall of 2008, a big project that demanded lots of time and energy—and ultimately was frustrated by poor conditions—I felt ...

Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains. On previous visits to this area a semi-circle of unclimbed peaks had been noticed lying around the large glacial basin at the head of S-4 Creek, a southern tributary of the upper Canoe River. The highest of these ...

Wrangell Range. On July 7, Alex Bittenbinder, Don Stockard, Ray Wagner, and I left the new McCarthy airstrip to walk up the Kennicott Glacier to climb what seemed to be three virgin 14,000-foot peaks northeast of Mount Blackburn, hoping also to as...

Eagle Rock Spire, Monument Valley. It had been a number of years since Fred Beckey and I had together accepted the challenge of sandstone climbing. This year our efforts were directed toward Eagle Rock Mesa and the 450-foot leaning needle to the w...

This is the fifty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-third issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: This was a year in which an unusually high number of experienced...

Panch Chuli Christian BoningtonThe BLOB OF LIGHT was a reassuring gleam, the head torch of one of the team, slowly descending the dark and craggy buttress to the tent where I had elected to stay that morning. I had been tired, worried about the di...

Central Rockies Section. In January 2008 the Section held a Basecamp Breakfast at the Ouray Ice Festival. Brittany Griffith spoke about climbing in Spain, and 20 percent of the crowd became new members of the Club by the end of the event. 2008 als...

The Lamya Valley to the Mountains of the MoonAlex BertulisDespite threats from rebel tribesmen to impale porters hiring out to mountain climbers, the incomparable Mountains of the Moon, on the Uganda-Congo boundary, are once again accessible to th...

Kalanka from the North. Our expedition had 14 members: Jan Kulhánek, Dr. Bohumil Karâsek, Jirí Strych Jaroslav Hons, Jirí Janiš, Ladislav Jón, Richard Kašták, Oldrich Kopal, Jaroslav Krnák, Gustav Pfannenstiel, Misoslav Polman, Josef Rakoncaj, Mir...

Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone: Because It’s There. Stephen E. Schmid, ed. Foreword by Hans Florine. Wiley-Blackwell, 2010. 256 pages. Paperback. $19.95Eric Shipton once said “climbing is a form of philosophy,” or something like that. His philos...

Northern Rockies Section. 2004 was a busy and productive year in the Northern Rockies. We began the year in Boise with a video presentation by Dick Dorworth of the classic 1968 Funhog Expedition to Patagonia, which resulted in the third ascent of ...

In Spirit LandFred BeckeyNORTH of Taku Inlet and River, and east of Lynn Canal, flat and interlacing glaciers form what is probably Alaska’s fifth largest ice field, the so-called “Juneau Ice Cap.” Relatively accessible but largely unexplored, thi...

Bhagirathi II. Five advance course students of the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed Bhagirathi (21,364 feet) on May 16 under the leadership of Major Surat Singh, Acting Principal. Sherpa instructor Shangbhu and Major Singh guided the foll...