Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow Aviation Institute led an autonomous expedition in the South-Western Pamir. This was the first significant ...
Alone to Everest, by Earl Denman. 255 pages, 13 photographs. London: Collins, 1954. Price, $2.38.An Innocent on Everest, by Ralph Izzard. 318 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954.When some great achievement, book, or play, has attracted g...
Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. A British expedition led by Anthony P. Johnson was composed of nine members. They were trying this very difficult peak from the south via Kangban Khola, the route attempted by the disastrous Austrian expedition of 1969. Vari...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State ParkOn August 30,1993, Jeff Rosenkrans (17) fell 80 feet when the anchor system he and his three friends installed for their rappel came out. He sustained massive head inj...
Shisha Pangma Pre-Monsoon Attempts. An Italian team led by Marco Berti attempted to climb Shisha Pangma in the pre-monsoon season but failed to get higher than 7200 meters. Swiss led by Fredi Graf of Eiselin Sport also made an attempt which ended ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, NutcrackerOn July 1, Paul Bennett (41) and Randy Kanta were climbing the Nutcracker, 5.8, on Manure Pile Buttress. Bennett led the last pitch; he climbed the low-angle slab off the bela...
Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Winter Ascent. On January 16, Lowell Skoog and I climbed Mount Shuksan via the Price Glacier. Our approach from the Mount Baker Highway was via White Salmon Creek. From the end of the valley we cramponed hard snow to t...
Bhagirathi III. On August 28, New Zealander Kynan Bazely and Australians Vera Wong and I as leader arrived at Nandanban Base Camp. For a week we acclimatized and carried loads to Advance Base at 4900 meters beneath the southwest face. On September...
Zion, Various Ascents. A major route was established across from Angels Landing, between Weeping Rock and Touchstone. Beyond the Pale (VI A3 5.11a) was begun by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson and finished by Baker and Chris Ducker. A Future With ...
Chamlang’s P 7010. Reinhold Messner obtained permission from the Nepalese government to climb the southest ridge of Makalu. He asked me to accompany him, knowing I had attempted the route in the autumn of 1980 (A.A.J., 1981, pages 244-6). I secure...
Arras, South Face, Forbes Group. On July 23 Cathy Bushnell, Gary Duncan, Pete Grant and I were flown to the base of Mount Arras (10,180 feet). We made the first ascent directly up the center of an uninteresting south face that afternoon. Arras is ...
Castle Rock Spire, Cinco deMayo. Bruce Bindner and I completed a 12-pitch route (V 5.10+ A3) on Castle Rock Spire, slightly to the right of the north arete, over May 3–4. The route parallels the north arete, 150' away. It features excellent, mostl...
Torre de Parón. Four Spaniards from Madrid made an impressive new route on the 900-meter-high east buttress of the Torree de Parón, taking eight days and climbing UIAA difficulty of VI+ , A3. The crux pitches were on the second quarter of the butt...
Jaonli, Attempt, and Various Ascents. A British expedition to Jaonli (6632m) failed to climb the peak due to a six-day spell of heavy rain from September 20 to 25. Deep fresh snow prevented any advance beyond 5400 meters on the normal Northwest Fl...
Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent. Our Slovene expedition consisted of Dr. Iztok Tomazin, Marjan Kregar, Pavel Kozjek and me as leader. We established Base Camp at Hiangdi Chuli at 4100 meters on November 27. We planned to climb the mountain by a combinati...
Dir Gol Zom, Ascent. Our expedition members consisted of five seniors (Hidehiro Minamii [leader], Ken Ikeya, Yoshio Hirai, Shuzou Kinoshita, and Yasufusa Yokochi) with an average age of 61. Our goal was Dir Gol Zom (6778m), which lies at the top o...
A color photo in a packer’s brochure shows this face to good advantage. The north-facing wall is about 700 feet high, rises above Spring Lake (Middle Fork Kaweah drainage), and is reached by an uphill grind from Mineral King. Robb Dellinger, Debbi...
Labrador: The Grenfell-Forbes expedition to northern Labrador led by Dr. Alexander Forbes in the summer of 1931 brought back considerable information on that country and reports a number of climbs in the Torngat and Kaumajet Ranges. In the Torngat...
First Complete North-South Traverse of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. Spaniards Antonio Trabado, José Luis Fernández and José Carlos Tamayo and Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz finally made the first complete north-south traverse of the Southern Pa...
P 5684, Pamir Mountains. A seven-man Bulgarian party led by Todor Batkov ascended a previously unclimbed, unnamed peak northeast of Pik Korzhenevskoy, between the Mushketov and Ayu-Dzhilga Glaciers. They reached the summit (5684 meters, 18,648 fee...