Tasiilaq Fjeldhytte, Keerali Gletscher Area, Various Ascents. On April 13, John and Liz Williams, Dr. Steve Kershawa, and I (all British) flew from Iceland to Kulusuk, then on by chartered Air Alpha helicopter along the length of Ammassalik Fjurdv...
CHESTER DAVID TOLLAKSON1936-1994More than anything, Dave Tollakson was a teacher. He was devoted to his students as a mathematics and drafting instructor and upon his retirement from Burbank, California’s John Muir Junior High School, he establish...
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During the 2002 climbing season in Kluane National Park Reserve, a total of 130 persons participated in 35 mountaineering expeditions. This accounted for 2,258 person-days in the...
Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an initial attempt on March 31. On the evening of April 2, we left camp carrying 40 hours of food and fue...
Himalaya Alpine Style: The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks. Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1996. Color photographs, hardcover. $45.00.Here’s a book that describes the Himalayan climbs that matter to cli...
Canadian Rockies, summary. The big news of the summer of 2004 in the Canadian Rockies was a visit in July by the German soloist Frank Jourdan. He warmed up on the Greenwood-Jones (IV 5.8 A1) and the Supercouloir (IV 5.8) on the north faces of Mts....
ChangabangChristian Bonington, Alpine Climbing GroupMARTIN Boysen, Dougal Haston, Balwant Sandhu, Doug Scott, Chewang Tachei and I reached the summit of Changabang (22,520 feet) at four P.M. on June 4. This was the culmination of three weeks of in...
FALLING ROCK–FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER BELAY TECHNIQUE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez PerceOn June 30 about 9:30 a.m., Jeff Heinrichs (29) of Jackson, WY, took a leader fall on Nez Perce. He was unable to walk after the...
Cascade Alpine Guides, Climbing and High Routes: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass and Rainy Pass to Fraser River. Fred Beckey. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1977/1981. 354/328 pages, black-and-white photographs, line drawings, maps. $11.95 each.One frequen...
Illimani, south face to southwest ridge. After acclimatizing in Peru’s Cordilleras Huayhuash and Blanca, and a short trip to Huayna Potosi (Bolivia), Yvonne Koch and I planned to try a new route on the rarely visited western sector of Illimani’s s...
STRANDED, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn October 20,1986, around noon, Paul Manini (22) became stranded while “free solo” climbing on top of a large rock formation at Live Oak Picnic Area.About 1340 Manini sent his br...
RAPPEL ERROR–FAILURE TO CHECK ANCHOR, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Shiprock, Hindu KushOn July 3, Lewis M. Jones II (22), and his partner, Joe Wilson (23) climbed Hindu Kush (5.8), a popular Shiprock route. Shiprock is a popular climbing a...
The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents, by Fritiof M. Fryxell, Grand Teton National Park, Wyo. The Crandall Studios, 1932 ; printed for the author by the Augustana Book Concern, Rock Island, I11. $2.00.This short account of the history of the climbing ...
Mount Huntington By Lionel Terray, Club Alpin Français. Translated by H. Adams Carter After seeing superb photographs by Bradford Washburn in a mountaineering journal, I realized what a magnificent field of action the McKinley Range would ...
Francis Younghusband: Explorer and Mystic, by George Seaver. 391 pages, maps and illustrations. London: John Murray, 1952. Price, 25/—.Sir Francis Younghusband came of an old fighting family, with established traditions in the Indian army, but he ...
Montana: Glacier National Park, Mt. Wilbur (circa 9,500 ft.) On 11 July 1950 four young men from Tulsa, Oklahoma (Chester Cadieux, Robert Stokes, Dick Hughes and John Fields) were campers at Many Glacier Camp Ground in the Swiftcurrent Valley. The...
STRANDED—AMONG OTHER THINGS California, Yosemite ValleyHere are a few examples of non-climbers in situations which ended up costing NPS personnel considerable time and funds.At 1620 on March 17, 1988, Ranger Jim Tucker was dispatched to Swan Slab ...
Mount Russell, South Ridge to East Peak. This very prominent crest is really a continuation of the main divide from the Whitney-Russell col. (It is the left profile as seen from Upper Boy Scout Lake.) Greg Thomsen, Ed Ehrenfeldt, and I made the cl...
JOHN HUDSON HALL 1896-1952Jack Hall, a member of the Club since 1921, died after a short illness in a Chicago hospital while on his way to a vacation in Montana. Heart attacks, aggravated by hot weather in New York where he had been working long h...
Accidents: The summer of 1931 was a most disastrous one for climbing. The terrible weather in the Alps caused a tremendous loss of life, while practically no great range was without its toll. In the Himalayas and the Caucasus and even in our own m...