Nieves y Riscos Merideños by R.A. Romero Muñoz-Tebar (Caracas, 1976). Along with Carlos Chalbaud’s Expediciones a la Sierra Nevada de Mérida (Caracas, 1959), this is one of the best sources of information on the history and routes of the Mérida pe...

Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end of February and from there reached the north side of Cholatse via a trek over the Chola Pass. Their goal was ...

Cascade Canyon, The Faultline. This short route, first climbed on July 31, 1978 by Tom and Barry Rugo, ascends the very steep buttress immediately west of and below Icefloe Lake. Some moderate climbing led from the scree at the base of the face to...

Shiprock, Various Ascents. In January, I soloed Parallel Reality (IV A5+) and On a Tear (VI A5+) on the south face of Sextant Spire. Both routes are extreme aid routes that went in without bolts, and both have excellent groundfall potential.On the...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT Colorado, Lumpy RidgeOn July 15, Dave Trout (21) and Gary Buckham (19) started climbing a route on the Book, believed to be just west of the Kors route. Buckham had run the rope out as far as he could in the first lead...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 13 around 1720, Kris Alageswaram (age unknown) was leading pitch number 26 on the Nose Route of El Capitan. At a height of 15 to 20 feet above the be...

Mukut Himal and Churen Himal. The Nihon University Expedition started from Pokhara on April 11 for the northwest of Dhaulagiri. We planned for about 100 days, using successively porters, mules and yaks for transport. The party consisted of four me...

FALL ON SNOWBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn August 18, 1981, after spending the night in the Hind Hut, Russell Reno and his son ascended Mount Assiniboine via the northwest face and north ridge. On the descent, they decided ...

AMS, CLIMBING ALONE (PARTY SEPARATED), INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe International Climbing Buddies Expedition, consisting of Ralph Nicholson, James Foutch and Brett Johnson (35), reached the 17,200-foot camp on May 27. On M...

Boundary Peaks, Denver and Meade Glaciers, Southeast of Skagway. Twenty straight days of misery were spent by our party on the upper Denver and Meade glaciers from August 19 to September 7. In five horrible days, Ron Miller, Margaret Piggott, Mike...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Jasper National Park, Morro SlabsOn June 22, a family group and friends were climbing at Morro Slabs, a low angle practice area near the road, east of Jasper, Alberta. The group was being...

Kampire Dior Attempt. On June 24 Professor Franz Sindermann, the doctor for the German-Austrian Karakoram Expedition, left Ulm with a VW-bus for Rawalpindi with expedition supplies. The rest of us, who flew on July 10, were Helmut Linzbichler, the...

El Cuchillo, New Route. On June 10, Yossi Brain (U.K.) and I climbed a new route on El Cuchillo (5655m). We started up a difficult, 250-meter, narrow (20-30m) icefall on the south side of El Cuchillo that involved short sections of technical 90-de...

Mount Wickersham, Bard Peak and Others, Chugach Range. It is amazing that Mount Wickersham (7415 feet), located south of the end portion of the Matanuska Glacier, escaped a first ascent until 1969. Possibly it was because of its believed inaccessi...

The Mountains Above 7500 m = 24,607 ft.x = not yet climbed up to January 1. 19641.Mount Everest8848m=29,028 ft.2.K2 or Chogori8611m=28,253 ft.3.Kangchenjunga8585m=28,168 ft.semi-official 8597 mSouth PeakX8476m=27,810 ft.West Peakx c.8420m=27,621 f...

Ngozumba Kang. A South Korean-Nepalese expedition led by Park Dong- Gyo made the first ascent of Ngozumba Kang (7806 meters, 25,610 feet). They climbed the south face direct with four high camps. On November 2 Sherpas Ang Tsering and Dorje and Sou...

A.A.C., Southern California Section. Membership in the section increased to 80 this year. The section met twice with programs on Mount McKinley by Paul Gerhard and on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mount Logan by Frank Coale. Members participated in cli...

When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner in fellow Fairbanks climber Matt Klick. At home in Fairbanks we waited two days to fly in to a gravel strip at the base of the ...

Shah Fladi and Mir Samir. A reconnaissance party, Yasushi Yomota and Kazuyoshi Matsukura, of the Alpine Club of Tohoku Gakuin University tried Shah Fladi (16,875 feet) from April 15 to May 3 and Mir Samir (19,059 feet) from May 10 to 26 but failed...

Shupel Zom, Hindu Raj. Ken Kariyama and Huroaki Seki of Chiba University of Technology climbed in the area south of Buni Zom. On August 1 they climbed Shupel Zom (19,433 feet) and on August 5, P 5265 (17,273 feet).ICHIRO Yoshizawa, A. A.C. and Jap...