FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotOn August 1, Pamela Foyster (36) was descending the east face of Teewinot. About 1315 she fell while plunge-stepping down the snow which leads down fr...
Climbers Guide to Smith Rock. Alan Watts. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO,1992. 341 pages. $19.95.This long-awaited guide goes way beyond serving as a roadmap for the more than 1000 routes at the park: it’s a riveting read, a fascinating glimpse i...
Bitterroot Mountains, Various Activity. An entry for new climbs in the Bitterroot Mountains is well overdue, since the last AAJ entry was made by Stephen Porcella five years ago. Since 1997, many significant first ascents have been established in ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Washington, Chair PeakOn August 28, Eric Boldes (18) fell 150 feet to his death at the 5000-foot level while climbing with a friend. They were climbing independently at the time. (Source: King County Police, Major In...
The Sentinel, Brown-Eyed Girl. In late April, a certain Montana boy (who wishes to remain anonymous) and Joel Nolte climbed a new route on the north face of the Sentinel formation, in the Court of the Patriarchs. Brown-Eyed Girl (V+ 5.8 A3+) follo...
Xiashe, north face; Peak 5,690m, northeast ridge, attempt. It was Tamotsu Nakamuras telephoto of Xiashe’s north face appearing in the AAJ that persuaded us to visit. We were looking for an objective that would require little acclimatization, was a...
Cho Oyu from Tibet in the Post-Monsoon. Cho Oyu was successfully climbed in the autumn by 35 climbers, bringing the total of foreign—or non-Sherpa—summiters to 409. All, except for the brilliant Japanese trio whose climb is recorded under the Nepa...
Hati (5,524m), first ascent. It was early May, and within minutes of embarking from the jeep in the Zhopu Pasture, David Sykes, our L.O. Lenny, and I were surrounded by local families on their annual cater pillar-fungus hunting holiday. These grou...
I screamed down to David as I desperately groped for a hold below me, trying to reverse the move I had just made.“I’m coming off!!!”The screech of my crampons against rock echoed across the ravine. I was keenly aware of the double-zero Camalot thr...
ON July 6th, 1936, there assembled at Ranikhet, Garhwal, seven men and a huge amount of baggage. An eighth was hurrying from Shanghai to join the adventure, which, disguised as the British-American Himalaya Expedition, was to attempt the ascent of...
Birch Mountain, north ridge, attempt. In the summer, Seth Dilles and I were back again to do the first ascent of the complete north ridge, which we planned to call the Kramer Memorial Ridge [for history, see AAJ2004, pp. 170-171]. I invited Doug R...
AVALANCHE, FROSTBITEYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganA party of seven climbers from Colorado was attempting an unclimbed north ridge of Mount Logan. About 11 a.m. on June 11, 1982, their camp at about 15,500 feet was struck by an ava...
The Southeast Face of Mount Dickey David S. Roberts WHAT fun it was. All spring, in the gloom of planning, we had grumbled about this next 400 feet. The crux of the whole route, we had prophesied, reason enough to justify fixing the first day...
Mount Goodsir, North Face, Kootenay Group. In April Kevin Doyle and I climbed the true north face of Mount Goodsir in a sustained three-day epic. The face, which is one of the largest in the Canadian Rockies, provided 6000 feet of mainly snow-and-...
ROCKSLIDECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn May 21, while ascending the Avalanche Gulch route, a large rock slide occurred, hitting a party of one guide and four clients. Two clients were injured.The Sierra Wilderness Seminar (SWS) guided...
Summit Registers. The focus of our club is climbing difficult routes on remote high-country peaks, seeking out the few remaining registers in the Sierra, and, more importantly, preserving this history and these records. Through our endeavors, I ha...
Reichardt describes the approach and climb: “What was it like?” “It covered the whole spectrum from unity to anarchy, from triumph to despair,” I replied. “We were such a diverse group but pulled together when it counted. We came very close to...
FALL ON ROCK-FOOTHOLD BROKE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Tonquin Valley, Mount OublietteA.M. and I just got back from the Tonquin where (I believe) we did the first ascent of a direct start to the Beckey (East Ridge) Route ...
JotunheimenDowns LongakerSEPTEMBER 1st, 1939, brought to the world the utter tragedy of war, but to me, at that time unaware of the events in the outside world, it meant the completion of one of the most enjoyable sojourns I have ever had in the m...
Climbing in the Mount Sneffels Region, ColoradoDwight G. Lavender and T. Melvin GriffithsGOOD climbing possibilities are usually enough to lure most alpinists to a region, but new routes and perchance first ascents add further zest to the enterpri...