Cho Oyu, South Face Attempt. Our expedition intended to climb the south face of Cho Oyu (8153 meters, 26,750 feet) which had first been climbed by Koblmüller’s party in 1978. We had four members, the Austrians Wolfgang Nairz, leader, Rudi Mayr and...
Koh-i-Mondi and Koh-i-Jumi. The Ohita Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Makoto Yano and consisted of Makoto Nishi, Hidenori Umeki, Kazuki Mimeno, Hidehiko Kato and Yukio Eto. They climbed in the mountains above Tilli in the Munjan valley. Camp I wa...
Malana Glacier, Hindu Raj. An expedition from Bregenz, Austria was led by Heinz Koors. They approached the Malana Glacier, above which they climbed two 5000-meter peaks from Swat via the Kachhikhani Pass. They returned over the Thalo Pass.
Sullivan Peak. 1940 first ascent by C. Beattie, Miss H. Bosworth, Miss G. Tillinghast and others. From A. C. C. camp one mile below head of Glacier River. Route leads N. up a steep gully opposite camp, then N.E. from the head of the gully over sno...
Dragontail Peak, Chasiri Tail. On July 24, Adam Lawson and I picked our way through eight new pitches (two were long simul blocks) on Dragontail’s northeast wall. Well right of Dragonfly, our route climbs a line of scary choss through a steep swat...
Il Nevado de los Leones was ascended for the first time by Gabriele Baccalatte and Piero Zanetti on March 3rd, 1934.
Mount Bryce, North Face. Bryce is a well known three-summited peak lying southwest of the Columbia Icefields. The west peak is highest at 11,500 feet. At the foot of its north face Bryce Creek flows at only 4000 feet. Thus the north face of Bryce ...
STRANDED BY WEATHER-INADEQUATE GEAR, FOOD, AND STRATEGY California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanJust before midnight on October 16, a cold front brought heavy rain to Yosemite Valley. Several climbing parties managed to retreat from big wall routes...
P 20,700 and P 21,750, near Kongur. I led twelve schoolboys on a mountaineering expedition to the very west of China, also accompanied by six recently left “Old Boys” of the school and one woman, Fiona Blake. Base Camp was established at 13,000 fe...
Mount Powell, East Face. Intending to climb the original route on the east face of Mount Powell, on August 28 I told my brother Glenn the first pitch was 5.8 and the rest easier. After two pitches of solid 5.8, it was obvious we were lost. I heade...
Kang Guru Attempt. Englishmen Michael Chapman and Nick Seely were attempting to climb Kang Guru via the west face to the northwest ridge. They reached a high point of 20,350 feet on April 24. They were moving up to the 21,000-foot site of their si...
Cathedral Peak, Southwest Ridge. During August a large Commonwealth team consisting of Howie Richardson, Robin Mounsey, Bob Cuthbert, Bruce McPherson and myself made the first ascent of the southwest ridge integrale of this granitic peak. Steep, e...
Meru North Tragedy. In the post-monsoon season, a three-man Japanese expedition led by Sohei Suzuki had a tragic end to their second attempt on Meru North. They had chosen a line of mixed snow and rock to the left of the original route on the nort...
Tawoche Northeast Buttress Attempt. Robin Molinatti, Pierre Fermin, Stephan Garczinski and I as leader hoped in the post-monsoon season to climb a new route, the northeast buttress of Tawoche (6501 meters, 21,327 feet). Because of bad snow conditi...
IMPROPER DECISION—FAILING TO TURN BACK, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEOregon, Mount HoodOn May 1, 1993, Robert McQueen (38), Lisa Padilla (42), and Lance Piatt (32) were descending Mount Hood in an intensifying storm. In th...
Shisha Pangma. A French commercial expedition made up of four men and four women was led by Jean-Pierre Bernard. Base Camp was reached on August 7. On August 25, leader Bernard, Charles Davignon, Bruno Lascoumes, Michel Monnier, Emmanuelle Jacquet...
Mount Prater, Hidden Couloir. In late September 1980, Del Johns and I approached the unclimbed east face of Mount Prater (13,329 feet) by way of Tinemaha Creek. At first it appeared the route would be all rock; however, part way up the face a deep...
Bhagirathi IV Attempt. Slovenes Matjaž Jamnik and Silvo Karo hoped to climb the west face of Bhagirathi IV. Unfortunately, during the 36 days they were in the region, only three days were without rain or snow. They made 11 attempts on the face, re...
AAC, Oregon Section. Throughout the year 2001 the Oregon Section was very active in working on matters of conservation, access, and trail building. With funding from a Lyman Spitzer grant, stairs were built and 210 feet of bouldering landing were ...
Travelers’ Medical Resource: A guide to health & safety worldwide. William W.Forgey. ICS Books, Merrillville, Indiana, 1990. 627 pages. $19.95. FarFrom Help. Peter Steele. Cloudcap, Seattle, 1990. 241 pages, illustrated.$14.95. Wilderness and ...