Chamlang’s P 7010. Reinhold Messner obtained permission from the Nepalese government to climb the southest ridge of Makalu. He asked me to accompany him, knowing I had attempted the route in the autumn of 1980 (A.A.J., 1981, pages 244-6). I secure...

Arras, South Face, Forbes Group. On July 23 Cathy Bushnell, Gary Duncan, Pete Grant and I were flown to the base of Mount Arras (10,180 feet). We made the first ascent directly up the center of an uninteresting south face that afternoon. Arras is ...

Castle Rock Spire, Cinco deMayo. Bruce Bindner and I completed a 12-pitch route (V 5.10+ A3) on Castle Rock Spire, slightly to the right of the north arete, over May 3–4. The route parallels the north arete, 150' away. It features excellent, mostl...

Torre de Parón. Four Spaniards from Madrid made an impressive new route on the 900-meter-high east buttress of the Torree de Parón, taking eight days and climbing UIAA difficulty of VI+ , A3. The crux pitches were on the second quarter of the butt...

Jaonli, Attempt, and Various Ascents. A British expedition to Jaonli (6632m) failed to climb the peak due to a six-day spell of heavy rain from September 20 to 25. Deep fresh snow prevented any advance beyond 5400 meters on the normal Northwest Fl...

Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent. Our Slovene expedition consisted of Dr. Iztok Tomazin, Marjan Kregar, Pavel Kozjek and me as leader. We established Base Camp at Hiangdi Chuli at 4100 meters on November 27. We planned to climb the mountain by a combinati...

Dir Gol Zom, Ascent. Our expedition members consisted of five seniors (Hidehiro Minamii [leader], Ken Ikeya, Yoshio Hirai, Shuzou Kinoshita, and Yasufusa Yokochi) with an average age of 61. Our goal was Dir Gol Zom (6778m), which lies at the top o...

A color photo in a packer’s brochure shows this face to good advantage. The north-facing wall is about 700 feet high, rises above Spring Lake (Middle Fork Kaweah drainage), and is reached by an uphill grind from Mineral King. Robb Dellinger, Debbi...

Labrador: The Grenfell-Forbes expedition to northern Labrador led by Dr. Alexander Forbes in the summer of 1931 brought back considerable information on that country and reports a number of climbs in the Torngat and Kaumajet Ranges. In the Torngat...

First Complete North-South Traverse of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. Spaniards Antonio Trabado, José Luis Fernández and José Carlos Tamayo and Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz finally made the first complete north-south traverse of the Southern Pa...

P 5684, Pamir Mountains. A seven-man Bulgarian party led by Todor Batkov ascended a previously unclimbed, unnamed peak northeast of Pik Korzhenevskoy, between the Mushketov and Ayu-Dzhilga Glaciers. They reached the summit (5684 meters, 18,648 fee...

Mount Foraker Tragedies. Six Japanese climbers from two different expeditions died on Foraker. Takatsugi Yoshino, Kazuo Yukoyama and Yutaka Yoshida of a 14-member party, led by Akide Sato, radioed on May 3 that they were near death from fatigue, b...

Moab area, New Routes. Stairway to Heaven (III 5.10, five pitches, 410 feet) climbs to the rimrock via a crack system in the center of the Fourth Tombstone. First ascent by Jimmy Dunn, Bob Novellino with Betsi McKittrick, Peter Verchick, Bret Sutt...

North Carolina, Table Rock. On December 3rd Steve Longenecker (age 33) and Robert Watts (27) were doing a short rock climb at Table Rock. Longenecker customarily climbed in a seat harness made of one-inch nylon webbing. Having forgotten his own, h...

Makalu, South Face. The sixth Yugoslav Himalayan Expedition left Dharan on August 19 and traveled through Dhankuta, Hile, Tumlingther, Khandberi, Sedus, the Kiki La to reach Base Camp at 16,250 feet on September 5. Camp I was pitched on the 7th at...

East Face of Longs Peak. Larry Dalke, Wayne Goss and I climbed a new route on the Diamond of Longs Peak, the "Diamond-7” route. We followed a fairly straight crack system to the left of the four previously climbed Diamond routes. With the exceptio...

Aconcagua, Polish Route Variant. A Spanish group from Aragon opened on January 18 a variant to the 1934 Polish Route. This new variant follows the original Polish Route to 5900 meters, then shifts to the right edge of the Glaciar de los Polacos (n...

Cerro Autana. In early November Jim Donini, Mike Graber, Beverly Johnson, and I established a new route on Cerro Autana deep in the Venezuelan jungle. We were accompanied by an ABC TV film crew of Mike Hoover, Peter Pilafian and Don Burgess. The e...

Grand Teton, North Face of the Enclosure, High Route. This major new route was first climbed on August 8, 1977 by Charlie Fowler and Steve Glenn. This climb begins near the bottom of the northwest ice couloir of the Enclosure, the same location as...

Soral Este, Southwest Face. On July 24, Fred Bahnson, Baker Perry and I climbed the southwest face of Soral Este to its lower, southeast summit (5460m). Our approach was made up through the moraine just southeast of the obvious rock pinnacle that ...