Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park. At noon on 12 September a ranger climbing party was having lunch at Anvil Rock when a lone climber wearing a dark parka was observed some distance away rapidly ascending the Muir Snowfield toward Camp Muir. O...
This 6,029m volcano, in Salta, Argentina, was first ascended by pre-Columbian Indians. Hans-Martin Schmitt from Germany and Adrian Germishuizen from South Africa climbed it on May 20, opening a new route on the northeast face for the fifth moder...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT,INEXPERIENCE, EXCEEDED ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT California, Mount WhitneyOn June 27, 1987, Ron Robinson (32) and Rick Maschek (35) were on the third pitch of Mount Whitney’s East Buttress Route (Class 5). Maschek ...
Himlung, Winter Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Iwao Maeda in the winter season of 1984-5 failed to get to the east ridge of Himlung and gave up at 6300 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Castle Peak, North Face. Castle Peak is located in the Pasayten Wilderness just northeast of Mount Hozomeen. The peak is a scramble on three sides, but its broad north face has route possibilities of 1000 feet on solid, blankish granite. In Septem...
SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, UNROPED,NO HARD HATBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount TantalusOn the morning of August 5, 1989, 18 members of the North Shore Rescue Team were beginning a three-day training exercise in the Mount ...
Weisses Heiligtum, by Keiichi Yamada, Tokyo, author and publisher, 1966. 64 pages of full page black and white photographs, 9 pages of appendix—in Japanese, titles and subtitles translated into German. The book is divided into two parts of about e...
Our light-weight Indo-Swedish expedition was composed of Swedes Ake Nilsson and Birger Andren and Indians Charu Sharma, Dr. Tejvir Singh Khurana and me. Andren had to leave shortly after reaching Base Camp due to high blood pressure. Base Camp was...
Pamirs and Tien Shan, 1971. In Alpinismus of March 1972 there is an excellent summary of the remarkable accomplishments of climbers in the Soviet Union in 1971. Their highest mountain, Pik Kommunisma (24,548 feet) was ascended by 64 climbers, Pik ...
Gasherbrum II, Northeast Ridge, Attempt. In contrast to the relative ease of access from the west (Pakistan), the east side of the Gasherbrum mountains has been called, for geographical as well as political reasons, the “blank on the map” since th...
Lobuje East, East Face. In September, Czechoslovaks Miroslav and Michal Coubal climbed a possibly new route in the center of the east face of Lobuje East (6119 meters, 20,076 feet) which rises between the Lowe-Kendall and the Bibler-Freer routes. ...
Ishkashimsky and Shakhdarinsky ranges, 280km traverse with several ascents. In August-September our group from the sport club of the Moscow Aviation Institute led an autonomous expedition in the South-Western Pamir. This was the first significant ...
Alone to Everest, by Earl Denman. 255 pages, 13 photographs. London: Collins, 1954. Price, $2.38.An Innocent on Everest, by Ralph Izzard. 318 pages. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954.When some great achievement, book, or play, has attracted g...
Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. A British expedition led by Anthony P. Johnson was composed of nine members. They were trying this very difficult peak from the south via Kangban Khola, the route attempted by the disastrous Austrian expedition of 1969. Vari...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION North Carolina, Crowders Mountain State ParkOn August 30,1993, Jeff Rosenkrans (17) fell 80 feet when the anchor system he and his three friends installed for their rappel came out. He sustained massive head inj...
Shisha Pangma Pre-Monsoon Attempts. An Italian team led by Marco Berti attempted to climb Shisha Pangma in the pre-monsoon season but failed to get higher than 7200 meters. Swiss led by Fredi Graf of Eiselin Sport also made an attempt which ended ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, NutcrackerOn July 1, Paul Bennett (41) and Randy Kanta were climbing the Nutcracker, 5.8, on Manure Pile Buttress. Bennett led the last pitch; he climbed the low-angle slab off the bela...
Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Winter Ascent. On January 16, Lowell Skoog and I climbed Mount Shuksan via the Price Glacier. Our approach from the Mount Baker Highway was via White Salmon Creek. From the end of the valley we cramponed hard snow to t...
Bhagirathi III. On August 28, New Zealander Kynan Bazely and Australians Vera Wong and I as leader arrived at Nandanban Base Camp. For a week we acclimatized and carried loads to Advance Base at 4900 meters beneath the southwest face. On September...
Zion, Various Ascents. A major route was established across from Angels Landing, between Weeping Rock and Touchstone. Beyond the Pale (VI A3 5.11a) was begun by Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson and finished by Baker and Chris Ducker. A Future With ...