Boundary Peaks, Denver and Meade Glaciers, Southeast of Skagway. Twenty straight days of misery were spent by our party on the upper Denver and Meade glaciers from August 19 to September 7. In five horrible days, Ron Miller, Margaret Piggott, Mike...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Jasper National Park, Morro SlabsOn June 22, a family group and friends were climbing at Morro Slabs, a low angle practice area near the road, east of Jasper, Alberta. The group was being...
Kampire Dior Attempt. On June 24 Professor Franz Sindermann, the doctor for the German-Austrian Karakoram Expedition, left Ulm with a VW-bus for Rawalpindi with expedition supplies. The rest of us, who flew on July 10, were Helmut Linzbichler, the...
El Cuchillo, New Route. On June 10, Yossi Brain (U.K.) and I climbed a new route on El Cuchillo (5655m). We started up a difficult, 250-meter, narrow (20-30m) icefall on the south side of El Cuchillo that involved short sections of technical 90-de...
Mount Wickersham, Bard Peak and Others, Chugach Range. It is amazing that Mount Wickersham (7415 feet), located south of the end portion of the Matanuska Glacier, escaped a first ascent until 1969. Possibly it was because of its believed inaccessi...
The Mountains Above 7500 m = 24,607 ft.x = not yet climbed up to January 1. 19641.Mount Everest8848m=29,028 ft.2.K2 or Chogori8611m=28,253 ft.3.Kangchenjunga8585m=28,168 ft.semi-official 8597 mSouth PeakX8476m=27,810 ft.West Peakx c.8420m=27,621 f...
Ngozumba Kang. A South Korean-Nepalese expedition led by Park Dong- Gyo made the first ascent of Ngozumba Kang (7806 meters, 25,610 feet). They climbed the south face direct with four high camps. On November 2 Sherpas Ang Tsering and Dorje and Sou...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. Membership in the section increased to 80 this year. The section met twice with programs on Mount McKinley by Paul Gerhard and on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mount Logan by Frank Coale. Members participated in cli...
When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner in fellow Fairbanks climber Matt Klick. At home in Fairbanks we waited two days to fly in to a gravel strip at the base of the ...
Shah Fladi and Mir Samir. A reconnaissance party, Yasushi Yomota and Kazuyoshi Matsukura, of the Alpine Club of Tohoku Gakuin University tried Shah Fladi (16,875 feet) from April 15 to May 3 and Mir Samir (19,059 feet) from May 10 to 26 but failed...
Shupel Zom, Hindu Raj. Ken Kariyama and Huroaki Seki of Chiba University of Technology climbed in the area south of Buni Zom. On August 1 they climbed Shupel Zom (19,433 feet) and on August 5, P 5265 (17,273 feet).ICHIRO Yoshizawa, A. A.C. and Jap...
Forbes-Lyell Group. In July, 1940, a forest fire unfortunately destroyed the bridge across the N. fork of the Saskatchewan and much of the trail leading from mile 53 on the motor road to Glacier Lake. The best route now is still the old one, follo...
Colchuck Peak, northeast face, Hilden-Holsten. In late January 2011 Jens Holsten and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Colchuck Peak to the right of the Northeast Couloir during an uncommonly long period of high pressure. Two fun pitc...
Cerro Cuerno (18,216 ft.). On February 25th. 1934, this summit was reached by P. and S. Ceresa, Chabod, Ghiglione, Frederico Strasser and Pasten by a route up the east ridge from the Horcones Glacier.
Mount Andromeda, Columbia Icefields. David Hambre, urged by George Lowe, suggested something yet undone in the Columbia Icefields. Early on the morning of August 26 we three set off for the north cirque on the west side of Mount Andromeda. Just le...
Paine Group and Dickson Glacier. The Mountaineering Association of Nagano Prefecture was divided into a Paine party of Akira Miyashita, Yoshinori Adachi, Tatsunda Matsuzawa, Kazuo Shirokura and Yoshimichi Kohata and a Dickson Glacier party of Yosh...
FALL ON ROCKTexas, Enchanted Rock State Natural AreaOn November 30, 1985, Scott Hall (22) was leading Eat, a single pitch 5.9+ route on the Buzzard’s Roost formation at Enchanted Rock when he fell at the crux, located approximately one and a half ...
STRANDED–INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Tenaya PeakOn September 26, Marvin and Mary Kilgo (both 42) became stranded about three or four pitches from the top of Tenaya Peak. They requested help. Another climbing p...
Kongur Attempt, Xinjiang. The first American expedition to Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) arrived at Base Camp on July 20. The climbing party consisted of Gil Anderson, Rob Leitz, Art Porter, Andy Shidner, Ed Stachon and me as leader. Our goal ...
Two Climbs in the Southern Palisades, 1989. In late September and early October, 1989, Ron Cappasso and I did two new routes, both III, 5.9. The first was a striking pinnacle due south of Brainard Lake. The crux was an icy off-width ceiling lead. ...