Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Arches National Park, Miss Rosa Coldfield

Arches National Park, Miss Rosa Coldfield. The tower is the first landform south of the Phallus and was soloed in August (5.8 A2, 140 feet) by Dave Gloudemans via the south face. Tower of Babel, The Secret Journey (IV 5.5 A3+, four pitches, 550 fe...


Accident Reports ANAM
New York, Shawangunks

New York, Shawangunks. On December 1st a student at the State University College in New Paltz was hiking with friends in the Trapps area. They followed a footpath to the top to enjoy the view. For the return the student elected to scramble down th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, Nun

Nun. Our expedition consisted of Austrians Willi Wehinger, Walter Bell, Kurt Kirchler, Götz Mayr and me as leader and German Hermann Huber. After a number of delays on the approach, we reached Tongul in the Suru valley on August 5. The porters wer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jannu

Jannu. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter Farrell made an unsuccessful attempt on Jannu (25,294 feet) by a new route on the north face. On October 22 Farrell and Brian Pooley reached 24,000 feet.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Yamnuska

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaWhile leading the third pitch of Red Shirt on July 30,1994, Andrew F. (50) fell about nine meters, striking the belay ledge with his head. His helmet fell off, and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Musembeah Peak, Northeast Buttress

Musembeah Peak, Northeast Buttress. Two of the more alpine faces in the southern portion of the Wind River Range, the north and east faces of Musembeah, have been completely ignored by climbers. On September 11, Dick Ross, Jerry Fuller, and I foun...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kashmir and Jammu, Exploration of the High-Altitude Desert of Rupshu and Ascent of Mata, Southeast Ladakh

Exploration of the High-Altitude Desert of Rupshu and Ascent of Mata, Southeast Ladakh. Our members were Chetan Bhattacharji, Rajbans Talwar, Vijay Jung Thapa, Ms. Rupa Dutta, Ms. Rohini Prakash, Ms. Seema Mishra, Gautam Das, Rano Gupta, Shantanu ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua, Ascents and Tragedy

Aconcagua, Ascents and Tragedy. It was reported that Lucien Berardini, who led the first ascent of the 3000-meter South Face in 1954, returned to Aconcagua in January with Hugues Beauzille to repeat the route. Arriving unacclimatized, and finding ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, West Virginia, New River Gorge National River

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverDuring the evening of June 13, a female (25) was climbing Biohazard (5.10a) a 65’ trad route located on the Fern Creek Party Wall. She was almost at the top of the rou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bighorn Peak, Northeast Cirque, Bighorn Mountains

Bighorn Peak, Northeast Cirque, Bighorn Mountains. In August, 1977, David Roberts and I spent a week climbing in the east-facing cirque that lies between the summits of Bighorn and Darton Peak. Just north of a prominent gully that marks the wester...


Notes AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mountaineering Summary

Denali National Park, Mountaineering Summary. The 1997 climbing season for Mount McKinley and most of the Alaska Range started with mountaineers making unsuccessful summit bids in the chilly month of December and concluded in mid-July. Thirty-seve...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Venezuela, Nieves y Riscos Merideños

Nieves y Riscos Merideños by R.A. Romero Muñoz-Tebar (Caracas, 1976). Along with Carlos Chalbaud’s Expediciones a la Sierra Nevada de Mérida (Caracas, 1959), this is one of the best sources of information on the history and routes of the Mérida pe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cholatse (6,440m) North Face, Calendar Winter Ascent, Russian Route Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal Khumbu Section

Galya Cibitoke, Alexander Gukov, Sergei Kondrashkin, Viktor Koval, and Valery Shamalo from St. Petersburg arrived in Kathmandu at the end of February and from there reached the north side of Cholatse via a trek over the Chola Pass. Their goal was ...

| Published N/A | Author Anna Piunova


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Cascade Canyon, The Faultline

Cascade Canyon, The Faultline. This short route, first climbed on July 31, 1978 by Tom and Barry Rugo, ascends the very steep buttress immediately west of and below Icefloe Lake. Some moderate climbing led from the scree at the base of the face to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, New Mexico, Navajolands, Shiprock, Various Ascents

Shiprock, Various Ascents. In January, I soloed Parallel Reality (IV A5+) and On a Tear (VI A5+) on the south face of Sextant Spire. Both routes are extreme aid routes that went in without bolts, and both have excellent groundfall potential.On the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Nut, Colorado, Lumpy Ridge

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT Colorado, Lumpy RidgeOn July 15, Dave Trout (21) and Gary Buckham (19) started climbing a route on the Book, believed to be just west of the Kors route. Buckham had run the rope out as far as he could in the first lead...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection—Pulled Out, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 13 around 1720, Kris Alageswaram (age unknown) was leading pitch number 26 on the Nose Route of El Capitan. At a height of 15 to 20 feet above the be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mukut Himal and Churen Himal

Mukut Himal and Churen Himal. The Nihon University Expedition started from Pokhara on April 11 for the northwest of Dhaulagiri. We planned for about 100 days, using successively porters, mules and yaks for transport. The party consisted of four me...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Assiniboine

FALL ON SNOWBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineOn August 18, 1981, after spending the night in the Hind Hut, Russell Reno and his son ascended Mount Assiniboine via the northwest face and north ridge. On the descent, they decided ...


Accident Reports ANAM
AMS, Climbing Alone (Party Separated), Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

AMS, CLIMBING ALONE (PARTY SEPARATED), INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe International Climbing Buddies Expedition, consisting of Ralph Nicholson, James Foutch and Brett Johnson (35), reached the 17,200-foot camp on May 27. On M...