Devil’s Thumb, West Buttress, 1990. In pounding rain in May, 1990, Jim Haberl, Michael Down and I helicoptered from Petersburg to set up Base Camp at the fork of the Witch’s Cauldron just north of the Devil’s Thumb. When the weather cleared, we le...
Himalchuli Ascent and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Las- zlo Berzi, Sandor Csanadi, Peter Greskovits, Dr. Antal Kallo, Laszlo Katona, Jozsef Csikos, Istvan Szabo, Gyorgy Toldi, Istvan Tolnai, Csaba Toth, Laszlo Voros and I as leader....
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumasortoq, Prowed and Free; Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, speed ascent. On July 2 Nathan Martin and I started our 34-day expedition to the Tasermiut fiord in southern Greenland by climbing the dead-straight 2,500-foot route Non C’...
Chaturangi Glacier, First Ascents. From June to July, Amitabha Roy led a Rocks & Snow Expedition that succeeded in climbing two unnamed peaks in the Chaturangi Glacier area. Base Camp was established at 5030 meters on June 25, Cl (5180m) on Ju...
Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent. Our expedition was composed of Louis Audoubert, François Poissonier, Patrick Marcelot, Lionel André, Paul Vuillard, Annie Dubois and me. On December 1, Sundare Sherpa and I left Base Camp at 4700 meters and got to 7100 me...
Pico Schulze, southwest face; Punta 5,505m. Three new routes were added to the southwest face of Pico Schulze (5,943m), a fine fluted snow-and-ice pyramid northwest of Illampu (6,368m) in the northern Real. These may be the first new routes on the...
Pakistan, Mountaineering Developments. Pakistan has opened peaks up to 6500 meters for climbing without liaison officers or peak fees, except in restricted areas. It is now possible to obtain 30-day visas on arrival at airports.
Four Gables, North Peak via East Face. This was a new route, done June 15, 1974 with Mike Levine, following the buttress on the face seen plainly from the highway north of Bishop. Once on the buttress, reasonably sound granite led the climbing to ...
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holtanna (2,650m), west face, Ice Age, and north pillar, Skywalk; Ulvetanna (2,960m), northwest buttress, The Sound of Silence. When Ivar Tollefsen “discovered” the peaks of Queen Maud Land in 1994 and published reports and...
Mt. McKinley was climbed for the first time since 1913, early this summer when an expedition led by Alfred Lindley of Minneapolis and Harry K. Leik, Superintendent of Mt. McKinley National Park with Erling Strom of Lake Placid and Grant Pearson, a...
Torre Central, Riders on the Storm, attempt and third ascent. In November Frenchmen Jerome Arpin and Sylvain Empereur attempted to climb Riders on the Storm in alpine style. They climbed 18 pitches in four days, but the weather changed, bringing v...
Makalu, West Face Attempt and Rapid West Buttress Ascent. The west face of Makalu was first attempted in 1977 and first climbed solo by Jerzy Kukuczka in October 1981. The route followed the left edge of the face and finished via the northwest rid...
Kirghiz Range, Tien Shan. From June 20 to July 18 ten Yugoslav climbers visited the Kirghiz Ala Tau in the Soviet Tien Shan. The Tien Shan stretch deep into China, while westwards they break into several lower parallel ranges. The Kirghiz Ala Tau ...
La Neige en Deuil, by Henri Troyat. 195 pages. Paris: Flammarion, 1952. Price, 390 Fr. frs.This is primarily a psychological novel, not a tale of mountain adventure, but it is unthinkable without its background of the French peasant’s home, the li...
Tangra Mountains, Komini Peak, west slope new rock route. Komini (774m: 62°39'10.1"S, 60°07’05.7" W) is one of the minor peaks on the side ridge descending northward from Levski Peak in the Tangra Mountains, which are situated on Livingston Island...
North-South Traverse of Southern Patagonian Icecap, Attempt in Late 1992 An Italian expedition consisting of Paolo Cavagnetto, Paolo Falco, Joel Blumenberg and Alberto Guelpa attempted unsuccessfully to complete the entire north-south traverse of ...
FALL ON ROCK, GEAR SLING CAUGHT ON CAM DURING FALL – STRANGULATING CLIMBERCalifornia, Kings Canyon National Park, ObeliskMy name is Patrick Callery. Our friend David Shirley and I were climbing with Ishun Chan on the South Face route of the Obelis...
USSR Pamir Camp. The 1987 season was wet and snowy, worse than the 1986 season. Pik Lenina saw the brunt of the activity, especially in early August. Lenina’s Lipkin Cliffs route was skied by a French group from Lyon. However, they lost skis and a...
Mount Foraker Attempt. Bill Coyle, Brian Okonek and I hoped to make on alpine-style ascent of Foraker’s northeast ridge via Mount Crosson. On June 27 we skied to the base of the southeast ridge of Crosson. The next day we climbed the ridge to 9900...
Colorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone Needle—Cleve McCarty, Tony Mueller (20), Rodney McWhinney and Robert Kulstad (27), Rip Collins (31) and Dick Wink set up a base camp at the foot of Crestone Needle (14,191 ft.) on August 23, 1954. Only tw...