Khan Tengri, North Face, 1986. One of the most notable Soviet climbs of 1986 was the new route on the 2800-meter-high, very difficult north face of Khan Tengri (6995 meters, 22,950 feet) in the central Tien Shan. Eight climbers from Moscow, led by...

Foraker Attempt. The Foraker-Russell Expedition, consisting of Dick Morse, Tim Carpenter, Jerry Croft, Ralph Moore, Jeff Thomas and me, failed to reach the summit of either of our goals. The route up the south spur of the west ridge of Foraker was...

Vermont, Norwich—On October 12, 1954, J. B. Corbett (18) was climbing with two members of the Dartmouth Mountaineering club. They were traversing wet rock about 8 feet above the ground on a practice climb. They were unroped. Corbett slipped and in...

Canyonlands National Park, Airport Tower, Sky Pilot. Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson climbed a new route on Airport Tower in September. Their route, Sky Pilot (IV 5.9 A3), was probably the second ascent of the tower, and the second route on the la...

New Hampshire, Cannon Mountain. On August 12th Dana Jones (age 27) and Mark Lawrence (24) were completing an ascent of Sam’s Swan Song. They had reached about the eighth pitch. According to another climbing party, Dana, in the lead, went slightly ...

Nun and Kun, 1988. A 95-member team from the Indian Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel H.S. Mann. Nun was climbed by two different routes. Four men made the first Indian ascent of the difficult east ridge, while 21 others did the normal west route...

Yalungkang. A very strong team of the German and Austrian Alpine Clubs made a new route and the second ascent of Yalungkang or Kangchenjunga West (27,625 feet). The first ascent had been by the Japanese via the west ridge in 1973. (See A.A.J., 1...

RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Back of the Lake CragOn July 26, 1994, D.O. (29), a sport climber, took a serious fall at the Back of the Lake, a rock climbing area at Lake Louise. The accident occurred...

Monolith, Northwest Face. After the ascent of the long chimney that splits the north face of the striking formation of Monolith, south of the Popo Agie River, the other logical technical climb to do was the magnificent buttress to its right, on th...

Kun Ascent and Attempt. A French expedition led by Jacques Duevisson climbed Kun by its east ridge in mid August. A month later, British climbers under the leadership of John Harris Schwelm failed.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India

Aconcagua, Expedition Inspiration. An expedition of breast cancer survivors attempted to climb Aconcagua to raise awareness of the disease and to raise money for breast cancer research. The 17 women were divided into two teams; six attempted to su...

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, New River Gorge National RiverOn June 5th, a male climber (22) was leading Layback and Enjoy It (5.10) located at the Bubba City climbing area. The following is a synopsis of the most likely scenario that oc...

Big Horn Mountains, New Routes. On August 19 Janice Cook and I climbed the northwest ridge of Bomber Mountain’s north peak, a classic serrated granite ridge, reminiscent of the Chamonix Aiguilles. NCCS IV, F6, Al. On the 20th John Perdue and I cli...

Franklin Icefields, Traverse and Ascents. Craig Deutche and I established a new and fascinating route across the Franklin Icefields in late July. From a small shelf on the Sadlerochit River, we proceeded up Whistler Creek and over the pass that le...

Sierra Nevada de Mérida. A stay in Mérida revealed that the long active Club Andino Venezolano has been disbanded. Presently there are three small clubs in the city. The most active seems to be Club Cóndor, Carlos Reyes, Presidente, Calle 24 #8-25...

In early December Dawa Steven, Nanga Dorje, and Pemba Tenzing inaugurated a new approach to the Kyajo Glacier, and made a rapid, quasi-winter ascent of Kyajo Ri's standard route on the southwest ridge. The normal approach is via Mende and the va...

Table Mountain, Southeast Couloir. In early July, 1980, Jack Tackle and I climbed the prominent couloir on the south side of Table Mountain. Above the snow in the lower portion it was a fairly sustained climb on good rock for about 600 feet. The m...

Baboquivari Peak, Various Ascents. In March, I soloed a new route on the east face of Baboquivari Peak. Freak of Nature (VI 5.10 A5a) starts 40 feet left of Cradle of Stone and climbs straight up a blankish golden wall left of the black water stre...

RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Mt. RoyalOn Monday, July 2, the Summit County Rescue Group (SCRG) rescued the second fallen climber in nine days from Mt. Royal.Ron Swett (21) and two companions, Bri...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY–ROPE TOO SHORT and NO KNOT IN ENDCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Guppy DomeOn September 7, Scott Davidson (54) led a short pitch, fixed an anchor and had his belayer lower him (with an ATC). The rope (50m) was to...