First Ascents in the Cashmere CragsRalph S. WidrigGOOD granite is probably the best of rocks to climb on. The State of Washington is blessed with several granitic batholiths, of which one of the finest, from a rock climber’s point of view, is to b...
Patagonia summary. [Note: this summary supplements the individual route reports below— Ed.] Unlike the past few years, this season did not offer an extended good weather period in late January and February, which climbers had come to expect and re...
On May 24, four members of an expedition were flown on to the Ruth Glacier with the intent to climb several surrounding snow and ice routes. Weather conditions in the area (4,500 feet) were unseasonably warm, with nighttime temperatures consist...
Gasherbrum II, a Third 8000er by a Woman. On July 13, after 11 days of trekking from Dassu, Lut Vivijs, Ingrid Baeyens, Raf Snoeck and I arrived at Base Camp at 5150 meters. A fortnight of bad weather then confined activities. The two ladies and I...
Care Bear Traverse (Guillaumet, Mermoz, and Fitz Roy); Guillaumet, The Lost Men; Fitz Roy, Hoser Chimney. Dana “Mad Dog” Drummond and I hit the soon-to-be-paved streets of Chalten on January 16, 2008. With a promising forecast, we quickly repacked...
Biacherahi Central Tower, south face, first ascent. Voytek Kurtyka (Poland), Taeko Yamanoi, and I (Japan) visited the Choktoi Glacier. Voytek and I planned to try the north face of Latok I but the weather was so bad, we couldn’t do it. Instead, th...
Uomini e montagne del Sahara, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1970. 522 pages, 151 maps and sketch maps, 267 plates of black and white.The mountain ranges of the Sahara desert are more complex and more interesting than most mountaineers ...
Peak 4,863m, north ridge; unnamed Trezubet summit, north ridge; Pik 5,046m, south ridge; Pik ca 4,800m, Sarah’s Daddy; Kyzyl Asker, north summit (ca 5,500m), Gladwin-Stewart Ridge. Buying supplies should not be the most dangerous part of an expedi...
American Alpine Club Research Fund, 1946Joel E. Fisher, Weldon F. Heald and Maynard M. MillerThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related...
Everest Survey. Vernon Tejas and Skip Horner accompanied Louis Bowen to the summit of Everest on May 12 with the assistance of Sherpas Ang Gyalzen and Dawa Temba, who carried up the stand, the housing and the tubing for the laser prisms. Vern asse...
The Avalanche Book. Betsy Armstrong and Knox Williams. Fulcrum, Golden, Colorado, 1986. 212 pages, appendices, bibliography. $14.95.Anyone whose encounters with snow tend toward the nonhorizontal should have a working understanding of avalanches. ...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club enjoyed an unusually active year. Sixteen week-end climbing outings were sponsored, which attracted over 500 active participants. The popular Sunday afternoon hikes and horseback outings were continued. Nineteen profess...
The Wonderful Story of Abe LincolnClaude Ewing Rusk1“THE Cascadians are fools,” said Abe Lincoln. “I know they are fools—I’ve been there. I know!” And this because the Cascadians were planning a trip to the E. side of Mt. Adams to ramble over the ...
Number ofAccidentsReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401911963...
Nandabhannar, Nandakhani, Shallang Dhura. There has been considerable interest in a pass in Kumaon first crossed in 1926 by Hugh Ruttledge’s porters. An Indian team explored its existence in 1988. This year a team from Bombay led by Divyesh Muni r...
ICE COLLAPSED, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Blue Ridge Parkway, Doughton ParkThe body of Ralph Fickle (59), an experienced climber and guide, was found on March 4 about 200 feet below the Blue Ridge Parkway, a half- mile ...
Boulder Climbs North. Richard Rossiter. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 320 pages, black-and-white photographs, route diagrams, map. $19.95 (paper).Has Boulder lost its lycra-clad mind? Already the main trailheads into the once pristine foothills ...
Cat’s Ears Spire, Second Ascent, And Devil's Thumb, Attempt. From May 12 to June 5, Jeff Selvig, Simon Elias and I lived on the standard southeast Base Camp of Devil’s Thumb and made the second ascent of Cat’s Ears Spire and attempted the south pi...
Pamirs. Beginning with the German-Russian Expedition of 1928 there have been to date five expeditions to the Pamirs. In 1928 the German alpinists of the expedition climbed the peak Merzbacher had named Alt. Kaufmann (7,130 m.), believing it to be ...
Just two days after arriving at Jannu Base Camp on April 5, Alex Bolotov, Sergey Borisov, and Gennady Kirievsky began to work the bottom part of our route. We would use a trio of three-man parties, and our leader, Alexander Odintsov, planned to jo...