An American at Chamonix in 1754G. R. de BeerF.R.S., A.C., S.A.C., Hon. D.-ès-L. (Lausanne), Correspondent de I’lnstitut de France, Director of the British Museum (Natural History)THE earliest account known of an excursion to Chamonix is also the f...
Kautz Cleaver. Point Success, the southwesterly of Rainier’s three summits, and the only point above 14,000 feet which may be reached without touching glacier ice, was first reached by Stevens and Van Trump during their historic ascent of Rainier ...
HAVING decided to visit Mount McKinley, Dougal Haston and I consulted the Alaskan pioneer climber, Bradford Washburn, and scrutinized his wonderfully sharp aerial photographs of the South Face. There seemed to be a possible line up the face betw...
Sentinel Rock—A New Direct North Wall RouteYvon Chouinard(This article is included not only because the ascent is significant in itself but also because it relates in detail one of the Yosemite Class VI climbs described in the author’s other artic...
RAFFI BEDAYN 1915-1982A son of Sarkes Bedayn, the food merchant of San Francisco, Raffi took up climbing in the mid 1930s. He soon became one of the leading rock-climbers of the Sierra Club and made his mark in the company of such luminaries as Be...
Aguja Mermoz, East Buttress. Italians Vanni Spinelli, Ezio Tanzi, Antonio Colombo, Giulio Maggioni, Danilo Galbiati, Giorgio Confalonieri and Davide Corbetta climbed the 700-meter-high east buttress of the Aguja Mermoz. They set up Base Camp at th...
FALLING ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER Washington, Olympic MountainsIn the past year, the Olympians Hiking and Climbing Club had embarked on a program of teaching basic climbing skills to improve safety on the long cross-country traverses through...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR–RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPEWyoming, Lander, Sinks CanyonOn May 4, Jim Ratz (52) fell to his death while rappelling from a route called Honeycomb, four miles from his home in Lander.The following description and analysis we...
Everest: The Ultimate Challenge. Al Burgess and Jim Palmer. Beaufort Books, New York, 1983. 214 pages, color photographs, diagrams. $27.95.“I had chosen the Canadian expedition over the Lhotse climb because it was cheaper,” candidly writes author ...
Mountaineering YouthNorman BrightONE article could not possibly describe the climbing done every year in Washington by scouts and boys of scout age. This piece is about boy climbers, but it is also about Washington and her great wilderness areas—f...
On August 10, 1988, Kevin Hardwick (30) and his partner left Morrison, CO, enroute to Long's Peak. They planned to ascend The Notch couloir on the east side. On the drive in, Hardwick had sorted the climbing gear, which included seven ice screws...
On October 7 about 2:30 p.m., Dennis Luther (40s), an experienced climber, fell about 200 feet to his death from an advanced rock-climbing route up Poke-O-Moonshine. He was working on a bolted route and then rappelled, apparently with no au...
Rocky Mountain Rescue Group. The group was formed in 1947 by mountaineers who were concerned about the large number of mountaineering accidents in the area and about the way the rescues were performed. For a number of years it was little more than...
Yerupajá Chico, West Ridge Attempt. The Auckland University Andean Expedition was made up of Barry Barton, Doug Brasell, Graham Langton, Tony and Tess Parlane, Roscoe Tait, David Tapp and me as leader. We established Base Camp on May 29 at the hea...
Mount Everest from the North. The Chinese propaganda magazine, China Reconstructs, of August, 1960 states that on May 25 the Chinese Wang Fu-chou and Chu Yin-hua and the Tibetan Gonpa reached the summit of "Mount Jolmo Lungma, the world’s highest ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cathedral LedgesOn May 9, two climbers were going up Standard on Cathedral when the leader fell from Cave Wall about 1700. He suffered a concussion and felt lower back pain. The New Hampshire Mountain Rescue...
Gongga Shan— Minya Konka RevisitedDouglas Kelley and Joseph E. MurphyON OCTOBER 3, 1982 Dana Coffield and Douglas Kelley reached the summit of Gongga Shan, a 24,891-foot peak in western Sichuan province of the People’s Republic of China. Fifty yea...
Annapurna IV Attempt. Our members were John McMenamin, Heather McComb, Ruth Gemperlein, Jim Tweedie, Base Camp Manager Pat Ballard and I as leader. Bad weather and deep snow severely hampered our efforts. Upon arriving on March 30 at Yak Kharak in...
Kara-su valley, Kotina, northwest face, Czarna Wolga. There are many problems to overcome if you go to the Karavshin. It’s possible to hire an agent to prepare everything, but we couldn’t, as we didn’t have the money. Nevertheless, at the beginnin...
Makalu, by Jean Franco. Translated from the French by Denise Morin.London: Jonathan Cape, 1957. 256 pages; ills.; maps. Price 25s.The ascent of Makalu in 1955, as with all the 8000-meter peaks, was a superb achievement accomplished by a group of h...