Phoenix, Wallflowers to near summit. On June 30 a tiny Hughes 500 helicopter dropped Amelia Patterson and me at the base of a stunning 2,500' granite face known as the Phoenix. It is the largest feature in the Vampire Spires group of the Ragged Ra...
HAPEWashington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer's FingerTim Hartman contacted Mount Rainier National Park at 7:08 a.m. on August 12 to report that his partner Neil Shriner (41) was very ill. Shriner’s symptoms included difficulty breathing, gurgling lung so...
The Big Walls, by Reinhold Messner, Translated by Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press, 1978. 144 pages. Price $19.95.The immediate impression is good. Here is a handsome book about some of the most interesting climbs on record, and a...
Kara-Su andAk-Su Valleys, Various Ascents. (The following account is a combination of three individual notes by Doug Byerly, Stephanie Davis*, and Patience Gribble*.) Jimmy Surette and I arrived at the Kara-Su fork of the Karavshin Valley in the P...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. The most notable event of 2005 was not a single ascent but rather an unusual winter. Bitter cold in early January was followed by a short rainy season and then tw...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTIONWyoming, TetonsOn August 4, 1983, at 1335, I received a report from Ranger Bob Irvine of an accident on the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire. Irvine said the reporting party had just reached th...
Alpe, Neige, Roc 1981, edited by Charles Spillmann. Lausanne: Librairie Marguerat, 1961. 160 pages text, 94 ills., including double-spreads and fold-outs.This excellent publication, which appears in German, French and Italian, contains short artic...
North Wall of Sentinel Rock, Yosemite Valley. The lure of the N. face of Sentinel began to be felt in 1936, when Morgan Harris, William Horsfall and Olive Dyer made a reconnaissance of the lower cliffs, hoping to find a route up the face. They asc...
Jichu Drake, First Ascent to the Main Peak. After an unsuccessful attempt on the southeast ridge by Japanese ladies in the pre-monsoon season of 1983, Austrians climbed to the lower south summit by the southwest ridge (AAJ, 1984, pages 224-5). In ...
Cordillera Chila, Ampato, Hualca Hualca. A German expedition from Augsburg first visited the Cordillera Chila, which lies south of Chivay and north of Calloma. Expedition members were Engelbert Neumair, leader; Walter and Petra Siebert, Hubert Abe...
Siula Grande, south face, Southern Discomfort; other peaks. In July Jay Burbee (Canada), Michel van der Spek (Netherlands), and I ventured to the eastern side of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Ten hours of dusty buses from Huaraz to Huallanca to La Uni...
Hualcán Sur. I returned in July to the Cordillera Blanca to climb in the Hualcán* group, which had been explored primarily by Austro-German climbers in 1932 and 1939. We also learned from porter friends in Huaraz that an Austrian group in 1954 and...
Cho Oyu Attempt. Swiss Michel Vogler, Norbert Duvoisin and John Kimber failed to climb Cho Oyu from Nepal up the normal route which crosses into Tibet. Base Camp at 5000 meters and a depot camp were made on April 7 and 14. Camp I was placed on the...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK–CLIMBER STANDING ON LARGE ROCK WHEN IT CAME LOOSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDColorado, Little Bear, Northwest FaceOn July 2 about 10:00 a.m., an experienced climber died from a fall taken from the upper headwall (just below the Bl...
Puscanturpa Norte, various activity. July saw multiple teams camped below Puscanturpa Norte (5,652m), hoping to complete routes on the columned rock buttress of the northwest face. British climbers Mark Pretty, Nic Sellars, and Sam Whittaker first...
New Mexico, Shiprock. On 26 March two climbing parties started up Shiprock in northwestern New Mexico. The first party was composed of Jim Smith (46) and Bill Bull (40) of Boulder, Colorado, and George Andrews (52) of Menlo Park, California. They ...
On September 15 Robert Rauch picked me up in La Paz at 4 a.m. The first crux was driving to the trailhead for Serkhe Khollu in Robert’s vehicle. The approach followed llama paths from 4,600m to 5,000m over gentle but steadily rising terrain, towar...
AMERICAN ROCKIES—NOTES, 1929By J. L. J. HartThe fifth recorded ascent of Kit Carson Peak, in the Crestone group, was made in September, 1929, by a small party of members of the Colorado Mountain Club. The route was up the southeast face. The first...
Cordillera de la Viuda, 1989. Five members of our club in twelve days traversed over several passes, starting from the railroad station of Chicla and heading northwest towards the town of Canta. Along the way they made several first ascents: Cerro...
The Alpine Club of Canada. For the Alpine Club of Canada, the year saw several major events. A re-enactment of the first ascent of Mount Lefroy and the commemoration of the Abbot Pass Hut took place August 2. A party composed of representatives of...