1951–081959–0420092009USACANUSACAN.TerrainRock453052877Snow236735541Ice270158River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent358958779Descent102337145Unknown250131OtherNB702Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock358929059Slip on snow or ice102320727Fallin...
Tamadonog, Doomed to Miyar; Geruda Peak, first ascent. The Tharanga, the local population of the lower Miyar Valley, are mainly shepherds and farmers. They gladly help expeditions visiting their valley and were of great assistance to our second Po...
GeographicalDistricts1951–19911992Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta276816149417British Columbia234905225215Yukon Territory292563209Ontario27650000Quebec21549104East Arctic722000...
FRANCIS ADAMS TRUSLOW1906-1951Francis Adams Truslow, our member since 1938, died suddenly of a heart attack last July. He was on his way to Rio de Janeiro with his family as U.S. Commissioner on the United States-Brazil Joint Commission for Econom...
Cathedral Spires. Hank Abrons and I took off on a whim in June for the Cathedral Spires. Hank had only three weeks, and we knew June was the wrong month, but greed at the prospect of Middle Triple Peak, second highest of the Spires and a splendid ...
MIRIAM O’BRIEN UNDERHILL1899–1976It was on a Boston-Maine sleeping car back in the 1920s that I first met Miriam O’Brien. We were on our way to the Glen House, at the foot of Mount Washington, for a week of winter climbing with the “Bemis Crew, an...
During the summer of 1963, Sterling B. Hendricks, Donald Hubbard, Major Michael Banks, and I spent three weeks climbing in the "Hole-in-the-Wall Creek” area of the Logan Mountains. On July 22 and 23 we landed by aircraft on "Lonely Lake”, about ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE BELAYS, ETC.Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkDuring 1994, seven climbing accidents were reported from this area. All involved falling from various heights, and one of them resulted in a fatality...
Nanda Kot, South Face. A guided British expedition made the first ascent of the south face, approaching from the Pindari Glacier. The summit (6861 meters) was reached on October 2 by Richard Baskerville, Martin Moran, Andrew Nisbet, Jonathan Prest...
Women on High: Pioneers of Mountaineering. Rebecca A. Brown. Boston: Appalachian Mountain Club Books, 2002. Foreword by Arlene Blum. 272 pages. Hardcover $22.95.Rebecca A. Brown has given us a highly readable history of women’s mountaineering. Wom...
Warbonnet, North Face. On September 22 Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I climbed the north face of Warbonnet for the first time. From the southeast notch we traversed around the east face on ledges until they ended on a major ridge. We then climbed a...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. Our club, consisting of 25 members in Salt Lake City, had an active year in 1966. Ski mountaineering occupied most of the winter months in the Wasatch Range, while a few of the more hardened types did some winter rock clim...
STRANDED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, HASTE, WEATHER Oregon, Mount HoodOn Friday, May 31, I arrived at Timberline Lodge at 2330 with the intent of climbing Mount Hood via the Sandy Glacier Headwall, a moderate snow and ice...
A Bolivian Couloir and Other ClimbsStanley S. ShepardOf my climbs in Bolivia in 1967, 1968, and 1969, three merit an account. These three, although thoroughly modern in their technical requirements, recalled the days of Tyndall and Stephen, when m...
Everest, north face new route, personal commentary on history and style. The expedition to Everest by the North Face was planned immediately after our ascent of Lhotse Middle in 2001 [feature article in AAJ 2002]. This plan was collective, and mos...
The Shafat FortressAvoiding conflicts with a new route in Kashmir.JONNY CoppOver 500,000 troops are stationed along India’s border with Pakistan in the disputed region known as Kashmir. Micah Dash and I traveled there to find an unclimbed mountain...
Mount McKinley—Icy Crown of North America, Fred Beckey. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 319 pages, black and white and color photos. $29.95. In the Shadow of Denali, Life and Death on Alaska’s Mt. McKinley, Jonathan Waterman. Bantam Doubleday Del...
P 12,860, Cyclorama Wall. This obscure summit, located in the middle of a netherworld between the Palisades and Leconte Canyon, is a mile-wide, 1000-foot, vertical wall every bit as impressive as the Diamond on Longs Peak. To reach it, one must cr...
Encyclopedia Britannica, 14th Edition, 1929.The following notes make record primarily of topographical errors and discrepancies found in certain topic headings dealing with the mountains of North America. In general, a lack, of editorial uniformit...
The Shark's FinAfter beating back dozens of the world’s best climbers, Meru’s central peak finally succumbed to an unrelenting soloist. Indian Garhwal.Valeri BabanovAs far as I knew there had been about 15 attempts on India’s Meru Central, otherwi...