While climbing La Esfinge in the Paron Valley in 2011, the Ecuadorian climber Joshua Jarràn (IFMGA) took interest in the northwest face of Huandoy Este (6,070m). In August 2012, he decided to try the route with aspirant guide Juliana García. ...
In June, a group of Spanish mountaineers, Jorge Perez, Eduardo Ruiz, and Jose Martinez, climbed a new route up one of the central summits of the Coropuna massif from the south. This great snow-capped mountain, approximately 150km northwest of A...
In June 2012, Michael Wejchert and Erik Eisle (U.S.) made an ascent of the rocky south ridge of Urus Este (5,420m), believing the line to be unclimbed. [This expedition was backed by an AAC Mountaineering Fellowship.] Previously unrecorded, the...
Nocarane Volcano (5,787m) is located on Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca, close to Arequipa. Beginning in May 2012, Xavier Ossola and various partners established three new routes on a rocky aspect of the southwest face, which does not ...
Inspired by Pavle Kozjek’s climb Stonehenge on the northeast buttress in 2007 [AAJ 2008], we were eager to climb a new line on this stunning 5,410m peak. On July 13, Saskia van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and ...
Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja Real (5002m, 12°9'59.8" S, 75°38'57.6 W), located in Yauyos. The peak is granite, however there is much loose rock, meaning that...
Nevado Carhuachuco, new route. On November 10, during a guide course by the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP), aspirant guide Xavier Ossola and Micher Quito (IFMGA) climbed a new route, Listos Para Hacer Barras (300m, MD M5/6 55-80º), ...
In January 2013, Marco Jubes, Dani Moreno, and I managed to put up a new line on Ritacuba Blanco (5,350m) in the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. We choose an unclimbed line on the central wall: a huge, vaulted ceiling, with many roofs. We climbed the fir...
Karina Filgueiras and Bito Meyer opened three new routes on the Paredão Enamorados wall, near Agulhas Negras in the Parque Nacional de Itatiaia, located outside of Rio de Janeiro. In August, Filgueiras and Meyer established No Amaryllis (220m, ...
After climbing the standard route from the east on Greenland's highest mountain, Gunnbjornsfjeld (3,693m), Carlos Calderas, Carlos Castillo, Marco Cayuso, Martin Echeverria, and I climbed several peaks to the north of Gunnbjornsfjeld that Pa...
During 14 days in August, Line Veenstra and I climbed a number of peaks in northeast Milne Land. We accessed the island by boat from Constable Pynt, and followed the Korridoren Glacier west, moving camp often and making many side trips. We rent...
Ever conscious of escalating air charter costs in accessing the mountains of East Greenland, the experienced operator Tangent Expeditions has in the last couple of years set up a snowmobile service. The goal is to allow expeditions to reach var...
Inspired by our three-week honeymoon in Liverpool Land one year previous (see report here), my wife, Betsy Winston, and I decided to return to Greenland's east coast. Looking at Google Earth and pictures of the region, we chose a valley in the ...
From mid-July to mid-August, Basil Jacksch, Christian Ledergerber, Vera Reist, and I from Switzerland visited southeast Renland, establishing four long, hard trad routes. Renland is remote and still relatively unexplored, offering an ideal venu...
In the course of geological field research on the India- Asia collision zone, members of our University of Arizona Geosciences team have climbed several non-technical peaks, some of which would only be legally available to those with research ...
In the winter of 2011, Yuji Hirayama sat down with James Pearson and me at our annual meeting at the North Face to discuss expedition ideas. Yuji proposed a trip to Mt. Kinabalu (4,095m) in Borneo, Malaysia. He showed us a photo of a 100-meter, ...
In July I returned to the Half Moon massif (located near the Liberty Bell group and Washington Pass) with Tino Villanueva to attempt a new route on a prow-like feature on the northwest face, leading to the highest point on the ridge. We com...
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman, and I climbed a new variation on Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’), which connects the start and crux ofLet it Burnwith the end and crux of the west face. From a narrow ledge atop Let it Burn’s fifth pitch, we mov...
In late January 2012, Nathan Farr and I likely made the first winter ascent of the west face (300m, 5.11+) of Colchuck Balanced Rock (8,200’) in the Stuart Range. We approached on skis for the first four miles, then followed a well-established ...
The granite walls and peaks of the Stuart Range have seen prodigious new route activity in the last few years, with the rock generally excellent and often studded with knobs and fins when the cracks peter out. After climbing the north ridge of...