Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Kamet (7,756m), southwest face, Spicy Game
India, Central Garhwal
Expeditions to India can be a disaster for morale, if they experience a combination of bad conditions, bad weather, bad local services, and too spicy food. This was the case for the 2009 Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) expedition t...
|
Keywords
Spicy Game, Kamet, Didier Jourdain
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Sébastien Moatti
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Bagini Glacier, unnamed peak, panoramic photo
India, Eastern Garhwal
Cas van den Gevel (The Netherlands) and William van Meegdenburg (Switzerland) climbed to 5,985m on an unnamed peak about 1km east-northeast of their Bagini Glacier base camp (4,510m) while acclimatizing for an attempt on the north face of Ka...
|
Keywords
unnamed peak
|
Published
2012
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Summary, various routes
South America, Argentina, Chaltén Massif
According to various estimates, more than 150 people climbed the Ragni Route (600m, 90° M4) on the west face of Cerro Torre during the 2012-2013 summer season. This is more than twice as many people as climbed it in the previous 40 years, sin...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Chaltén Massif, Ragni Route, Cerro Torre, Pucher, Fava, Sánchez, Treu, Directa Huarpe, Guasos on the Rock, Porro y Todo lo Demás, Goretta Pillar, Aguja Rafael Juárez: Los Sanjuaniños, Huckaby, Schaefer, Aguja CAT, Aguja Cuatro Dedos, Aguja Inti, Agujas Atchachila, Pachamama, Manos y Mas Manos, Cuatro Dedos, Cerro Pollone, Birckhahn, Krousottsi, No Entiendo, Gran Gendarme, Pflug, Perfekt Day, Straub, Zigzag, Aguja Tito Carrasco, Kauffman-Toman, Jumbo, Yokoyama, Massumoto, La Granja, Guillaumet, Fasoldt, Simon, Dirigo, Anker-Piola, Cabezas, Simari, Gambler,Un Mar de Sueños, Cussirat, Molina, El Corazón, Rutherford, Sorkin, Mate, Porro y Todo los Demás, Kovacs, Lam, Urbanics, Carril Rapido
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Rolando Garibotti, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Janak Himal, Dome Kang (7,264m), east-southeast ridge; Domo (7,447m), southeast ridge
India, Sikkim
Undoubtedly the most significant Himalayan expedition by Indian mountaineers during 2012 resulted in the second ascents of two 7,000m summits, by new routes, in just 12 days climbing above base camp. The venue was the remote Jongsang, a long p...
|
Keywords
Janak, Jongsang, Dome Kang, Sikkim, 7000m
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information supplied by Pradeep Sahoo, India, and the Himalayan Club
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Melcyr Shan (5,910m),west face; Stifler’s Mom, west face and north ridge
China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range
Mirko Breckner, Max Dünsser, Dario Haselwarter, Reinhard Hones, Felix Sattleberger, and Uli Steiner, young climbers from the Deutscher Alpinverein (German Alpine Club), and David Göttler as leader, spent October in the Tshiburongi Valley o...
|
Keywords
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Max Dünsser
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Tatsienlu Massif, Baihaizishan (a.k.a. Tshungpingling, 5,924m PLA map), northwest ridge, attempt; Wupingfeng (5,672m), quasi-winter ascent via north ridge
China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan
One of the advantages of living in China is that it gives access to a number of unclimbed, indeed unattempted, peaks. Perusal of Tom Nakamura’s Sichuan’s Most Outstanding Unclimbed Peaks led Simon Moore, Rimon Than, Alex Tomaczynski, and I t...
|
Keywords
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Duncan Francis
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Vallé Colorado, Boris Avdeev Route, new routes
South America, Argentina, Central Andies
Over a period of three weeks in December 2012 and January 2013, Anton Karnoup (Michigan,AAC) and I climbed a number of routes in Vallé Colorado, beneath the slopes of Mercedario (6,720m) in the Cordillera de la Ramada, approximately 100km nort...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Central Andies, Karnoup, Vallé Colorado, Mercedario, Cordillera de la Ramada, Negro Couloir, Cerro Negro, Negro Chico, Chapaev de Los Andes, Cascada del Aguilas
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Dmitry Shapovalov, Canada, AAC
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Aconcagua, summary
South America, Argentina, Central Andies
In the 2012 season, 6,989 people traveled to Aconcagua—3,688 planned to reach the summit, and 3,301 visited the area for trekking. (The preceding season’s figures were 3,497 and 2,630.) The climbers were 18 percent Argentinian and 82 percent f...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Central Andies, Aconcagua, Plaza de Mulas
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Cerro Bonete, first winter ascent; south summit, new route
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
The volcano Cerro Bonete (6,759m), located outside of La Rioja, is the continent’s fourth highest summit, the world’s third highest volcano, and until now was the highest summit in South America lacking a winter ascent. On June 9, Basques Javi...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Cerro Bonete, La Rioja, Txikon, Ibarra, Veladero Hut, Ruta Mendizale
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Nevado Tres Cruces, east face and first winter ascent; other winter ascents
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
Nevado Tres Cruces (6,749m) was the last peak over 6,500m on the continent without a winter ascent. Basques Jabi Txikon and Arkaitz Ibarra climbed the peak by a new route, a very steep glacier on the east face. On August 30 they began to accli...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Nevado Tres Cruces, Txikon, Ibarra, Las Grutas, Cerro Solo, Glaciar de los Vascos, Ruta Etxerat, Vicuñas, Barrancas Blancas
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Puna region, various ascents
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
During the second half of January 2012, Argentineans Sandra Odriozola, Christián Chávez, Matías Barberis, Pablo Barberis, Federico Barberis, and I explored the high-mountain desert Puna, in the northern province of Catamarca. Some early ascent...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Odriozola, Chávez, Barberis, Puna, Catamarca, San Franscisco, Cerro Camila, Betrand, Pabellón
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Cerro Huayco (6,450m), northwest face
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
Argentines Glauco Muratti and Guillermo Bianchi made the first ascent of this volcanic summit on December 10. A subsidiary summit 2km southwest of Cazadero (6,658m), Cerro Huayco is one of the tallest volcanoes on Earth. Muratti and Bianchi ...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies,Muratti, Biachi, Cerro Huayco, Catamarca, Rio Calado
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Ojos del Salado to Pissis traverse
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
Ojos del Salado (6,893m) is the highest volcano on Earth and the second highest summit in South America. Pissis (6,800m, unofficially) is the second highest volcano on Earth, and the third highest summit on the continent. Basques Jabi Txikon a...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Ojos del Salado, Pissis
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Basque Traverse, Ojos del Salado to Volcán San Francisco
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
In February 2012, Jabi Txikon, Juan Nogueras, and Arkaitz Ibarra set out to for a 200km traverse of some the highest volcanoes on Earth. They acclimatized on Las Grutas (ca 4,000m) from February 1–5, and then they were taken by car to Puertas ...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Basque Traverse, Ojos del Salado, Txikon, Nogureas, Ibarra, Las Grutas, Puertas de Aguas Calientes
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Volcán Tres Picos, first ascent
South America, Argentina, Northern Andies
Volcán Tres Picos (6,037m) lies northwest of the Pissis massif, outside Catamarca, and until recently was one of the last virgin 6,000m peaks in the Andes. In 2010, Pablo Lukach and party attempted it without success. Lukach returned in Januar...
|
Keywords
Argentina, Northern Andies, Catamarca, Lukach, Pacheco, Wallya Buena
|
Published
2013
|
Author
Marcelo Scanu, Argentina
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Dhakoba (1,275m), north face, left route
India, Sahyadri Range
In September veteran climbers from Pune organized a trip with climbers from the “new generation” to stimulate interest in big-wall climbing. The Sahyadri Range, east of Mumbai, is composed of black basalt, and offers innumerable opportunities ...
|
Keywords
Sahyadri Range
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Samiran Kolhe, India
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Arwa Spire (6,193m), north face, Fior di Vite, first free ascent
India, Central Garhwal
On September 28 Simon Gietl and I stood on the summit of the Arwa Spire. Only 10 days previously I had been walking the long exhausting path from the last villages to the foot of this mountain. It was my third time.
In 2002, as a young alpine g...
|
Keywords
Arwa Spire
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Adapted from information supplied by Roger Schäli, Switzerland
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Kemailong (5,873m), South Ridge, Joining Hands
China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan
On October 1, Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan) and I climbed the ca 1,050m south ridge of Kemailong to make the first ascent of this striking granite tower in western Sichuan. [A photo of this mountain, labeled Peak 5,873m, was first published in AAJ 20...
|
Keywords
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Dave Anderson
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Crown Mountain (5,609m PLA map), northwest face and west ridge
China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan
On September 3, 2011, Szu- ting Yi (Taiwan), Eric Salazar, and I (both U.S.) made the first ascent of Crown Mountain in the northern Shaluli Shan of West Sichuan. We approached the peak, which is 10km southeast of Xiashe (5,883m), by je...
|
Keywords
|
Published
2011
|
Author
Dave Anderson
Climbs And Expeditions
AAJ
Ang Tung Range, Petze Kangri (6,130m) and Lugzl Pombo (6,414m)
India, Ladakh
In August, Aditi and Rajesh Gadjil, Vineeta Muni, Lt. Col. Shamsher Singh, and I visited the Ang Tung Range, northwest of Pangong Lake. The Ang Tung is a small group of peaks west of the Koh Lungpa Valley. This valley had never been visited by...
|
Keywords
unexplored, Ladakh, Ang Tung Range
|
Published
2012
|
Author
Divyesh Muni