Tower of Delphina, Dee-Bees Rib. On the north side of the Bubbs Creek drainage at Junction Meadow, lies a series of buttresses and towers. The Tower of Delphina is the only one which is orange and readily distinguishable by a huge dihedral which s...
El Capitan, “Gulf Stream,” New Route on the East Face. On September 9, Steve Gerberding, John Harpole and I completed a superb new route on El Capitan’s east face. It is a mostly independent line up the eastern seaboard of the North America Wall, ...
Glacier Point Apron, Coonyard Pinnacle Route. From the top of Monday Morning Slab, the Glacier Point Apron rises up at only a 65° angle, but it is very smooth and crackless. After several attempts Layton Kor, Richard Calderwood, Bill Amborn, Jeff ...
Latok I, North Ridge, Attempt, Harpoon, First Ascent, and Other Activity. Our expedition consisted of Lyle Dean, John Bouchard, and myself. We established Base Camp at the head of Choctoi Glacier directly across from the north ridge and north east...
Nameless Tower, Western Buttress, Trango Towers. Right after our attempt on the south face of Lhotse, Frenchman Michel Fouquet and I joined Swiss Michel Piola and Frenchman Patrick Delale in Skardu on May 24. With mountain bicycles, we got to Base...
Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Raymond Lambert and his wife Annette climbed Cotopaxi (19,848 feet) on March 9, 1957 and Chimbora2o (20,702 feet) on March 17. This was the first time that a woman had ever climbed either of these peaks.
Arwa Spire, East Summit, First Ascent. In October, a British expedition led by Kenton Cool made the first ascent of the Arwa Spire’s East Summit (6193m) via the Northeast Ridge (TD+ WI4 5.9, 2000m). Andy Benson and Pete Benson climbed the route on...
Pumori. The members of our expedition were Masayoshi Utsumi, Toshiaki Kobayashi, Toshiyuki Hayakawa, Hisao Tatsukawa, Yongjong An, Mrs. Suzue Terasaki, Miss Ritsuko Sakai and I as leader. This was the second time I had climbed the mountain, having...
Ketil and Other Peaks, Tasermiut Fjord. During August a group of French climbers led by F. Guillot explored peaks around Koromint valley (Kimukât on the 250,000 map). We arrived at Narsarssuaq airport on July 23, helicoptered to Nanortalik and tra...
Khrebet Kyokkiar and Gory Sarybeles, seven first ascents. After visiting this interesting and unexplored range in 2001, I organized another expedition in August, 2002. Karl Baker, John Cuthbert, Graham Sutton, and I (David Gerrard, as leader) made...
Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt. An expedition of six Austrians was led by Hubert Fritzenwallner. On October 13, they reached a high point of 6120 meters on the northwest buttress.Elizabeth Hawley
International Makalu Expedition. Our expedition had as main objectives the fourth ascent of Makalu (27,825 feet) by the 10,000-foot- high south face without oxygen with a minimum of Sherpas during the inhospitable post-monsoon season. Members were...
The Outdoor Athlete: Total Training for Outdoor Performance. Steve Ilg. Cordillera Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1987. 265 pages, 95 black and white photographs, 7 drawings, appendix, glossary, bibliography. $12.95 (paper).There is nothing new about...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE BELAY - DISTRACTEDKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn March 21,I took a lead fall, landing at the base of the climb Suppress the Rage (5.12a) located at the Sunny Side. I was at the second-to-last ...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face, German and Pakistani Success. I organized this small expedition but gave the leadership over to German Dr. Ekkert Gundelach. The other members were Swiss Diego Wellig, Philipp Zehnder and Peter Schwitter. They reached Ba...
Obra Valley, Pt. 5,760m attempt; Pt. 5,165m. In the autumn a four-member team from the Alpine Club became the first climbers to explore the head of the little-known Obra Valley, an area of sub-6,000m peaks west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini grou...
California, Berkeley—On March 11, 1956 a group of about 15 climbers that included experienced men as well as novices was practicing lower belaying at Indian Rock under the direction of the outing leader. The belayer was at ground level using a sta...
Mount Torbert, Alaska Range. On the afternoon of May 14 John Gar- dey, Dr. George Wichman, Dr. Rod Wilson, and I were flown in the 100 miles from Anchorage by Lowell Thomas, Jr. in his Cessna 180 to a point on the Triumvirate Glacier at 4000 feet,...
STRANDED—OUT OF FOOD, WEATHER California, Yosemite Valley, Magic MushroomOn April 24, 1994, Ken Bokelund's (28) wife reported to the NPS that he and Kevin Andrews (30) were one day overdue from climbing the Magic Mushroom route (VI 5.10 A4) on El ...
Trekking Mount Everest. Ryohei Uchida. Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1991. 128 pages, 257 color photographs, 3 sketch maps. $16.95. Ryohei Uchida is a master photographer. He has been a professional for 21 years and has visited Nepal thirty time...