Haagenshlong Tower, First Ascent, Previously Unreported. Haagenshlong Tower is on the north side of Buckhorn Wash on the comer wall joining Buckhorn Wash and Calf Canyon. The first ascent of the tower was made by the route of the same name, Haagen...
Laila Attempt. Kenzo Yamada, Yasuhiro Ohta, Kiyoshi Harada, Emiko Abe, Michio Noguchi, Masahiko Onda, Takashi Masude and I as leader attempted Laila (6986 meters, 22,921 feet), which rises above the Chogo Lungma Glacier. We left Skardu on July 19,...
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Athabasca-Andromeda GlacierOn September 5, P.P. and A.B. departed the climber’s parking lot below Mount Athabasca at 0430 to climb Mount Athabasca via the Athab...
Mt. Fairweather, Winter Ascent. On February 15, Nancy Juergens and I were landed in the foam of heavy surf approximately three miles south of Cape Fairweather. At low tide on the following day, our partners, Jeff Carter and Josephine Warden, joine...
P 9400, Chitina Glacier, Saint Elias Mountains. Dan Doak and I were dropped at Huberts Landing at 2000 feet on the Chitina River to complete a climb I had tried with another climber in July. On September 16, we hiked along the north side of the Ch...
IT STARTED by our looking, again, at a stupid map. The coolest USGS quadrangle in the Lower 48 is, by far, the Challenger map. It contains both the Northern and Southern Picket Ranges, with long, serrated ridges and enormous vertical relief rising...
Nilgiri North. We established Base Camp at 12,650 feet north of Tilicho West on April 3. After reconnaissance, on April 7 we placed Camp I at 15,900 feet on the north ridge of Tilicho West. We prepared the route to Camp II with 3500 feet of fixed ...
Fitz Roy Attempts. Yugoslavs Boris Simoncic and Matevž Lenarcic attempted the American route on Fitz Roy in January but were driven back by the weather 350 feet from the summit. They then attempted the Super Couloir twice and the French route and ...
Yerupajá South, Cordillera Huayhuash. Fernando Grajales (leader), Humberto Vasalla, Ulises Vitale, and Enrique Cardozo, Argentines, of the Club Andino Mendoza, made their base on the shores of Lake Solterahanca, set up three camps on the west wall...
Tien Shan, Ascents and Descents. We traveled into the Tien Shan for an adventure film for the Outdoor Life channel. Our group consisted of adventure skiers Doug and Emily Coombs, skier and cameraman Bill Gallen, snowboarder John Griber and skier/d...
San Gabriel, South Face, Winter Ascent, 1984. On September 1, 1984 Christian Thiele and I made the first winter ascent of this route, first climbed by Colombians in 1982. (A.A.J., 1984, page 216). It is one of the few granite faces in central Chil...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 12, 1982, Darrel Whynot (33) fell two to three meters onto his back when a rock he stepped on disappeared. He was reaching for a belay rope which had been dropped from above. His ...
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. It was reported that Spaniards Óscar Acín, Javier Pina and Miguel-Angelo Zaragoza made a number of first ascents in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. They first climbed Directa Inti (IV/3) on the 500-meter south ...
FALL ON SNOW, SKIING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn February 5, 1984, Robert Kelman (53), Pat Lang (30), and Robert McDonald (25) started at 0130 from Bear Lake (2842 meters) in Rocky Mountain National Park to ski th...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn January 19,1986, at 1310 Jim Angione fell approximately six meters while free solo climbing “Cranny” (F-5.7) at Quail Springs Picnic Area. Angione sustained a fra...
Nun, Kun and Pinnacle Peak. Many expeditions now visit Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) and Kun (7077 meters, 23,220 feet). Among the successful ones were the following. Five Koreans led by Jung Byung-Taek climbed Nun by its north ridge in late June...
Abasraju Attempt, Paqtsaraju, San Juan, Shaqsha. I climbed the south side of Abasraju, thinking I was on a different mountain. Becoming confused in clouds, I did not go to the summit. Teamed up with Austrian Gerhard Feichtenschlager, I did the who...
K12, Saltoro Group, 1984. Our Indian Army expedition climbed K12 (7428 meters, 24,371 feet) on October 17, 1984. The summiters were Nb/Sub. N.D. Sherpa, Hav. Rattan Singh Rana and Hav. Nima Sherpa. The route was along the west ridge.Prem Chand, Li...
Piz Buin. A 5 m. cross has been erected on its summit, the highest peak of Vorarlberg (Silvretta).
Mt. Robson. Fred Ayres and Dick Irvin made a variant of Kain’s original route up Mt. Robson in the summer of 1955. Instead of climbing the steep, often ice-covered rocks above the Dome to reach the southeast ridge they kept to the right as you fac...