SLIP ON ROCK OR ICE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Dennis, Carlsberg ColumnOn November 19, two climbers were approaching the base of Carlsberg Column (60 m. II WI5), a waterfall ice climb on Mount Dennis in Yoho National Park....
P 6648. P 6648 (21,812 feet), which lies between Devistan and Devtoli, was finally climbed by three members of a Japanese expedition on September 22. The six-man team, led by Kenji Hirasawa, approached by the Trisul Nala.
Mount Tyndall East Face Couloir. Mount Tyndall’s rather expansive and sheer east face falls from a long north-south summit ridge. Strangely, it has not seen climbing except at its extreme south end, quite distant from the summit. On May 31, 1970, ...
Fünf jahrhunderte Triglav, by Julius Kugy. 8vo. ; xi + 378 pages, with 48 full-page illustrations. Graz : Leykam-Verlag, 1938. Price RM. 11.50.The Triglav is not merely a mountain, it is a kingdom : the realm of Zlatarog, the white chamois, whose ...
Cerro Mayo. Our expedition from Bergamo was composed of Mario Curnis, Sergio Dalla Longa, Carlo Ferrari, Antonio Magnanoni, Dr. Annibale Bonicelli, Nicola Nava and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp at only 200 meters at the head of Mayo Fjord ...
Kangchungtse, Northwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. The seven climbers were Wally Berg, Bruce Hunter, Jerry Longbons, Edwin Terrell, Ken Madden, Dr. Gary Ruggera and I. We began the long approach from Hille on March 18 with our Nepalese staff of ei...
Garibaldi Park. The highest peak in Garibaldi Park, 50 miles N. of Vancouver, was climbed in September 1950 by a group who reported rotten rock and treacherous snow. The 7500-ft. summit was reached after a 16-hour climb from a camp at 5500 ft. Ano...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. This section, composed of members in the six mountain states, now numbers more than 100. Our chief activity for the year was hosting the Club’s annual meeting, which was held on December 6 at Boulder, Colorado. Many...
Ganesh III Attempt. Three Britons and an American hoped to climb Ganesh III or Salasungo (7110 meters, 23,326 feet) via the northeast face and the northeast buttress. They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4575, 5185 and 5875 meters on M...
Parque National Barranca del Cobre, Dong Tower, the Main Vein. A bachelor expedition for John O’Connor brought five friends to the rim of Barranca del Urique, in Parque Nacional Barranca del Cobre, Chihuahua, from January 9-25. We originally inten...
Annapurna Attempt. A five-man Italian expedition led by Giacomo Stefani had hoped to climb a new route on Annapurna, the northwest buttress and north face. Early on they decided against the route because it was all exposed rock rather than snow-co...
Deo Tibba, Hanuman Tibba, Manali Peak. These continue to be popular targets for small parties and trainees from the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Manali.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
Dhaulagiri IV. The leader of this Japanese expedition was Mitsuhiko Hattori. From Base Camp at 11,150 feet on the Konaba Glacier, they continued presumably along the route attempted by the Austrians. They found the climb beyond Camp II difficult a...
Ojos del Salado. A joint Argentine-Italian-Czechoslovakian expedition was led by Italian Francesco Santon. Argentine Manuel Montoya and Czechs Petr Šverma and I climbed the Ojos del Salado from the south in five days from Casadero Grande, arriving...
P 6000 and Z3, Durung Drung Glacier. A Japanese expedition of ten men and one woman ascended the Durung Drung Glacier to make what they state was the first ascent of P 6000 (19,685 feet) at the head of the glacier. Katsuo Sakai and three others se...
Aguja Rafael, Quilombo. When Zack Smith and I arrived at the Chalten Massif in Argentine Patagonia, the weather had been bad for over two months, with no sign of improvement. We established our high camp within a week, and amazingly the weather be...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Enrique Benavente, Juan Cerda, Emilio Civis, Berta Escola, Heinz Porkorski, Jorge Pons, Sara Pinazo, Elisabeth Verges and me as leader. We climbed a total of twelve virgin peaks. Aft...
Agua Negra Region, New Peaks. Using as a base a small populated place called Guardia Vieja, situated at 3000 meters on the new international road to Chile, we climbed for 20 days among the peaks near Agua Negra Pass. We were Miguel Beorchia, Lucia...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, “PITONS” PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn July 31, 1989, Paul Hammond (21), Erik Larson (17), and Carl Steger (21) were traversing fro...
Ama Dablam, Autumn Ascents and Attempts. Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet) continues to be very popular. All climbs and attempts in this post-monsoon season were made on the southwest ridge with the exception of one unsuccessful attempt. A two...