Everest Winter Attempt and Tragedy. A large Korean expedition led by Kim Ha-Kyung with 25 members attempted to climb Everest by the South Col route in winter. They apparently reached the South Col on December 29 but could go no higher. There was a...
Mount Waddington, New Route. During July Dave Mention and I climbed Mount Waddington by a new variation. Other party members were Tim Riordan, Jack Tackle and Dave Brunk. We approached the mountain by the Franklin Glacier, with Base Camp on the Di...
Borkoldoy Khrebet, Pik Alexander, Father’s Peak, and Pik Ibex ascents. A British team comprising Sharon Abbott, Wayne Gladwin, Mike Rosser and Stephen Saddler were the first climbers to visit the southwestern sector of the Borkoldoy range. This is...
Annapurna Attempt. Our group of ten Americans, mostly professional mountain guides, attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna by the Dutch Rib. We arrived at Base Camp on August 28, finding a large Korean expedition already at Camp I. We caug...
Makalu, South Face Attempt. A strong Austrian team failed to climb the 10,000-foot south face of Makalu, previously attempted by Yugoslavs. The leader was Wolfgang Nairz; other members were Horst Bergmann, Yves Buchheim, Walter Almberger, Helmut H...
Hypothermia and Cold Injury. Evan L. Lloyd. Apen Systems, Rockville, Maryland. 1986. 397 pages. 19 figures and tables.Although this is an excellent review of virtually all that is known today about hypothermia, the title is misleading: only seven ...
FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER TAKES HAND OFF ROPEKentucky, Red River GorgeOn Friday, March 4, I (name and age not on post) was climbing at The Motherlode on a route called Kick Me in the Jimmie (5.12) when I fell late in the day. The last fall of the last...
Nanga Parbat Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Ryoo Gil-Man attempted the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. On June 23, Kim Kwang-Ho slipped and fell to his death. The other members of the expedition were Chae Su-San, Jung Eun-Sang, Ha Jeong-Lea and ...
Rangrik Rang, west ridge. In October three French aspirant guides,Sylvain Audibert, Odilon Ferran, and Jeremy Rumebe, made the second ascent of Rangrik Rang (6,553m) by a new route up the west ridge. On the only previous attempt, in June 1994, Chr...
California, San Francisco Bay Area—On February 18, 1956 Keith Anderson (25), accompanied by two other climbers, attempted to climb one of the outcrops near the summit of Mt. Tamalpais. With a lower belay he led up a wide chimney to an overhang. At...
Mount McKinley. Aside from the ascent made by the Germans, which is reported on elsewhere in this Journal, Mount McKinley was ascended on July 12 via the West Buttress route by Seymour Ossofsky, Barbara Lilley, Michael E. Hiehle, Edward Lane, Arke...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, Bell Rock, North FaceAccording to witnesses, the young man (23) was in a hurry to get to the top of this rock and was seen almost “running” up the side toward the ...
Peaks and Passes of the Garhwal Himalaya. Jan Babicz. Alpinistyczny Klub Eksploracyjny, ul Armii Krajowej 12, Sopot, Poland, 1991. 246 pages, ridgeline maps, numerous drawings of peaks with routes marked, topos. Available postpaid from Jan Babicz,...
Whistler Mountain, Southeast Rib. On September 1 Barry Nelson and I climbed a rib of good-to-rotten rock on Whistler. A nice layback and face-climbing pitch led to several pitches of scrambling up unstable rock. NCCSI, F7.Alan Kearney
AVALANCHE AND BURIED IN CREVASSE—British Columbia, Yoho Park, President” Glacier. Bruce Colpitts (17) was trail breaking with Kris Kubbinsky and Len Potter on “President” Glacier at 10:15 a.m. on October 9. They had crossed the bergschrund on mode...
Chaukhamba II Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Jai Young Jeon attempted the northeast ridge of Chaukhamba II, situated at the head of the Gangotri Glacier. All members reached C3 but continuous bad weather from September 18-20 exhausted them at...
West Face of Lone Peak. the “Book”. In September, while Fred Beckey and Dan Davis were climbing the Question Mark Wall of Lone Peak, a second new route was being put up the west face by Ted Wilson, Rich and Dick Ream and Court Richards. We climbed...
The Needles, Southern Sierra Nevada. This very accessible, technical rock-climbing area in the Sequoia National Forest north of Kerndale remained essentially unknown until “discovered” several years ago by Dan McHale of Los Angeles. McHale, Fred B...
Idaho Alpine Club. The year began with the best ice climbing in the Tetons and Snake River Gorge since 1986, inspiring several beginners to take the club’s ice-climbing class. In February we held our first avalanche school, which we hope to make a...
Púlpito Negro and Other Peaks, Cordillera Oriental. J. Chávez, H. Frank and S. Gaviria of the Club Campo Abierto, Bogotá, on October 31 1977 made the second ascent of Púlpito Negro (4930 meters, 16,175 feet), a prominent rock tower capped with ice...