The Changing Face of Yosemite. Yosemite National Park was the site of two major natural disasters in the year. A rockslide in June and a flood in January have kept the National Park Service on their toes. On the evening of Wednesday, June 10, a 50...
HENRY FAIRBANKS MONTAGNIER1877-1933It has been a sad duty to write for the American Alpine Club the last memoirs of three great English-speaking Alpine historians —Coolidge, Farrar, and now, Montagnier—each, in his way, outstanding as mountaineer,...
ELTON STERLING THAYER1927-1954Elton Sterling Thayer was born March 30, 1927, at Readsboro, Vermont, and was killed in a climbing accident May 16, 1954, on Mt. McKinley, McKinley Park, Alaska.After residing in Vermont during childhood and early you...
Stanford Alpine Club. The rainy weather of the 1972-1973 winter limited our climbing in Yosemite, but in the fall of 1973 we were able to resume our traditional trip to Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley. Most of our beginners’ training is done ...
THOMAS GORDON GOMAN 1944-1986Tom Goman died on Mount Hood May 14 while leading a climbing group from the Oregon Episcopal School. Father Tom, as he was called by his students, was bom in 1944 in Corvallis, Oregon. He graduated from the University ...
Trango Pulpit, northeast face, Azazel. The spirit of Xaver Bongard is still alive. Grand Voyage remains the ultimate, unrepeated route on Great Trango (6,286m). The steepest flank of the Trango group is the side overlooking the Dunge glacier and o...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The PATC’s Mountaineering Section experienced an exciting year in 1988. Growth in membership and broadened activities were the major news for the group. Continuing a national trend, section membership once again gre...
K7 West, first ascent; Sulo Peak, probable new route; Naisa Brakk, southwest ridge; spire below K7 West. In August and September, Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj spent nearly six weeks in the Charakusa Valley. ...
Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains. Jon Krakauer. Lyons & Burford, New York, 1990. 186 pages. $17.95.The sport of mountaineering, Jon Krakauer writes in his introduction, “is wrapped in tales of audacity and disaster, that make oth...
Numbers Refer to Persons Directly Involved1951-751959-7519761976USACAN.USACAN.Terrain1Rock13441158410Snow715108852Ice 11242River 5011Unknown 10200Ascent or DescentAscent1051123567Descent87587714Unknown 1358100Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock773...
NOT ANCHORED AT BELAY—MISCOMMUNICATION, NO HARD HATNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Slip O’ FoolsOn October 1, Daniel Gelsomini (29) fell 35 to 40 feet from the top of the first pitch of Slip O’ Fools at the north end of Cannon Cliff. He had reached t...
Ampato, Discovery of Mummies. Three mummies were found on Ampato (6288 m or 6310 m), making this the second highest tomb in the world, after Argentinian climbers discovered another mummy on the summit of Cerro Incahuasi (6610 m) in early 1996. Bef...
In November 2010 Belarusian Nikolay Bandalet attempted unclimbed Thulagi alpine style with two Russians, climbing the far right side of the west face of Manaslu to a ridge at 6,400m, then descending the opposite flank to the upper Thulagi Glacier ...
The Desert, Various Activity. Numerous towers were climbed south of Moab in Joe Wilson Canyon, which can be found just south of Wilson Arch from US 191 (approach between mile markers 99 and 100 on US 191). Tranquillity Tower’s Feeding the Rat (5.7...
Garumbar Glacier, Hispar Region. British climbers Dave Wilkinson, Tony Park, Bill Church and Brian Davison visited the Hispar region of the Karakoram. From the town of Hispar, they reconnoitered the Yengutz Har and the Garumbar Glaciers before dec...
ROCKFALLAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Patterson, East FaceOn September 5, a party of three started early for a two-day ascent of this alpine grade IV, 5.6 route. The route involves climbing a few pitches of glacier ice followed by mixed clim...
Monument Peak and Mt. Awesome, Ascents. In March, Willy Peabody and I climbed Monument Peak at the head of the Monument Glacier in the Chugach Range via the north ridge. We then made the second ascent of Mt. Awesome via the south face.Mike Wood, u...
P 9110 and P 9105, Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier, Wrangell Mountains. The Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier and the mountains surrounding it are unique. The upper glacier is a large semi-circular basin which flows off a ten-mile-long ridge, the south side of wh...
Spectre Peak, Haunted Wall. Wayne Wallace and I braved the round trip 50 miles of hiking and 20,000' of elevation gain to climb the south face of Spectre Peak in the Northern Pickets in August. This is in one of the most remote places in the Lower...
Glacier Dome, North Face. An expedition from Macugnaga was successful in climbing Glacier Dome for the first time by its north face. On October 10 Claudio Schranz, Marco Roncaglioni, Gianni Tagliaferri and Sherpa Gombu reached the summit (7193 met...