Annapurna, South Face Attempt. [The Bulgarian expedition failed to climb Annapurna’s south face by the Polish route in the winter, as described briefly in A.A.J., 1986 on p. 293.] Their ambitious plan for climbing both Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in ...

FALL ON SNOW–FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Oregon, Mount JeffersonOn Sunday morning, April 25, Brent McGregor (51) and Tom Herron (40) began a climb of Mount Jefferson. McGregor and his climbing partner had started their climb at 3:00 a.m. Sunday but did...

Lion, Central, Kulu. Lion (20,100 feet) was climbed by its west face on June 27 by an expedition of Calcutta’s Institute of Exploration led by Sanatan Bhattacharya. The summiters were Nitai Roy, Kesab Mukherjee, Asit Roy, Asit Moitra, and Sherpas ...

PHILIP C. BETTLER 1917-1979Philip Bettler, a longtime member of the American Alpine Club, died of cancer on June 29, 1979. Phil joined the Club in February of 1949 and maintained an enthusiastic interest in the Sierra Nevada Section for the next 3...

50 Years of Alpinism. Riccardo Cassin. Diadem Books Ltd., London and The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1982. 207 pages, black and white photographs, diagrams, maps. $17.50.Riccardo Cassin has written a masterpiece of an autobiography—possibly the most im...

An American TyrolClimbs in the Big Horns, 1933W. B. WillcoxMOUNTAINEERS seem to have overlooked the Big Horns. The; region has long been a roaming ground for geologists, and for the dude-ranchers of northern Wyoming; but hitherto it has rarely bee...

Bahia Murta Region. Between December 30, 2001, and January 12, 2002, David Wood and I climbed several unclimbed summits in the Tres Arroyos region near the small Chilean town of Bahia Murta. This area offers extensive climbing on heavily glaciated...

During our two-week stay in Oman, Marc Kuhn and I climbed one possible new route on the north side of Jabal Asala. Initially we wanted to repeat Petit Journée (D+ F5/5+, Frédéric and Magali Salle), but we had no proper route description and only a...

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS SUFFICIENTLY Washington, Mount IndexOn July 11, 1987, the climb to the summit of the North Peak of Mount Index and the descent to the North-Middle Peak Notch had gone as planned and...

Gangstang, Lahul. Our 12-man expedition set up Base Camp on August 1 at 14,000 feet, three kilometers from the head of the Billing Nala. We established Camps I, II and III at 16,500, 17,750 and 18,700 feet on August 4, 5 and 6. Between Camps I and...

FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn July 22 at 1445, Teton Dispatch forwarded a cellphone caller to me. John Coombs who told me that Eva Bell (22) a member of his party, had fallen and tumbled approximately 80 to 100 fe...

Split Thumb, Juneau Ice Field. Looking northeast from camp 16-A on the Lemon Glacier, one sees the intriguing rock sentinel of the Split Thumb (5523 feet), rising near the western periphery of the Juneau Ice Field. The first ascent of this peak wa...

Aguja Guillaumet (2,579m), west face, Patagonian Werewolfs. Back in Chalten, after all my compatriots from Poincenot had left, I befriended a Brazilian, Marcos Costa. Just before we were due to depart (I had a ticket to Calafate for March 10) ther...

Ama Dablam. On April 4, Irishman Brendan Murphy and British Kate Phillips completed the 73rd ascent of Ama Dablam by the well-trodden southwest ridge. On April 12, two other British climbers, leader Ray Delaney and Joe Simpson also reached the top...

AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONE, POOR POSITIONNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington Ravine, Odell GullyAt 9:20 p.m. on January 18 the USFS Snow Rangers were informed that a solo climber (39-male) from Lewiston, ME, was overdue from his climb in Hu...

More First Ascents in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaFred Beckey[This is a sequel to William L. Putnam’s “First Ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia,” A.A.J., VII (April 1948), 25-32.—Ed.]SHORTLY after dawn on 20 July 1947, the Tello...

Mountaineers Guide to the High Sierra, edited by Hervey H. Voge and Andrew J. Smatko. New York: Sierra Club, 1972. 356 pages, $7.95.Originally, says the preface, this book was to be the third edition of A Climbers Guide to the High Sierra, edited ...

Sangemar Mar. Our expedition succeeded in making the first ascent of Sangemar Mar by the southwest ridge. The members were Takashi Matsuo, leader, Dr. Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiko Hirota, Tokio Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinic...

Colorado, El Dorado Springs Canyon. On 3 March about 30 feet above the beginning of the second lead of “Calypso”, Steve Kliewer (16), placed a sling around a rock and began a somewhat difficult traverse. After 10 feet moving to the right and sligh...

FALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLOINGCalifornia, Yosemite – Tuolumne Meadows, Cathedral PeakOn the afternoon of July 9th, rangers received a report that a climber had fallen approximately 400 to 500 feet while descending the Eichorn Pinnacle on Cathedral Pea...