Mt. Grosvenor, West Ridge to summit gendarme, and various activity. Located west of the Great Gorge and unnamed on most maps, the Backside Glacier affords access to several large peaks by their comparatively tame western ramparts. The lower-angled...
AVALANCHE, FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Montagne BlancheAt 1515 on March 3, 1985, a party of experienced skiers was approaching base camp at the end of a tour around Montagne Blanche. They were on a ski-mountaineering t...
Kirti Stambh Ascent and Kharchakund Attempt, Gangotri Region. Our expedition consisted of Rick Allen, Ernie McGlashan, Malcolm McCullough, Beverley Hurwood and me as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Kharchakund (6612 meters, 21,693 fe...
ANTHONY FIALA1869–1950While the genesis of the American Alpine Club was taking place in 1902, Anthony Fiala was busy putting the final touches on preparations for the Ziegler Polar Expedition, which had as its objective the attainment of the North...
Bugaboo-Pigeon-South Howser-Snowpatch enchainment. I realized I was super-anxious to climb in the Bugaboos when I arrived at the Applebee Campground five days before my partner was scheduled to arrive. I figured I would keep myself busy hiking aro...
BOYD N. EVERETT, JR.1933 - 1969Boyd Everett lived for the mountains. He was happiest, most alive, and easiest when he was in them. During his thirty-five years he climbed the four highest peaks in North America and a wide range of other mountains,...
It’s been a slow few years in the mountains of southwestern British Columbia. There is energy and talent concentrated in the Vancouver-Squamish-Whistler-Pemberton corridor, but the focus remains at Squamish. When these talented climbers focus o...
The Steepest Mountain: The New Zealand Andes Expedition, I960, by Lloyd E. Warburton. R. J. Cuthill, Publisher, New Zealand, 1964. 136 pp. Illustrations. $3.50.Nevado Cayesh had been described as "the steepest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca and...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. After many years of waiting, and much work, the Mountaineering Section completed its publication of its Climbers Guide to Seneca Rocks. Because of the increasing popularity of climbing and the subsequent need for mo...
Jensenland, historical timeline of the search for the northernmost point of land on Earth. Based on the results from the 1996 American Top Of The World Expedition (co-leaders Ken Zerbst and myself [editor’s note: this is the expedition mentioned b...
The Mountains, My PerspectiveRobert M. McConnell *I HAVE BEEN ASKED TO REFLECT about where we stand on protecting the mountains we love so much. The first thought that comes to mind is that we have turned an important comer in this effort. Alpinis...
DYSON DUNCAN1908-1978Dyson Duncan, the first member of the American Alpine Club to join the American Mountain Troops and who declined draft exemption to stay out of the Army, died on December 20 at his home in Mount Kisko, New York. He had been a ...
On May 26 Ben Chriswell, Sam Johnson, and I flew to the Pitchfork Glacier. The Neacolas are a largely unexplored group southwest of the Alaska Range. Ben and Sam had received a McNeill-Nott award for a trip and kindly let me tag along. During our ...
Into Thin Air. Jon Krakauer. Villard: New York, 1997. 293 pages. Black-and-white photos, woodcut illustrations. $24.95.I approached Into Thin Air warily. I think it was all the hype, all the people insisting, “you must read it,” all the talk of mi...
Again Switzerland, by Frank S. Smythe. 8vo., 248 pp., 33 illustrations and a map. London, 1947: Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd. Price, 20/-.Mr. Smythe has written a book describing his first trip to Switzerland, after the enforced absence of the seven ...
Tirich Mir and Other peaks. Mine was a one-man enterprise, based on the fact that I knew that in this region there were other expeditions, with which I could participate; as for geology and exploration, it was as well to be alone. I climbed peaks ...
Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota. This is to amplify a note in AAJ 1972, p. 176. Mary Fulford, Fay Kerr, Esme Speakman and four other tramping friends from England set off from Limacpuncu on August 8, 1971, to the Kira Kira valley...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Shawangunk Rock Climbs, by Richard C. Williams. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1980. 463 pages, 102 photographs, appendices. Price $14.50.The new guidebook had a tough act to follow. Almost everyone agrees that the 1972 edition of Shawangunk ...
Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CANUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— ...