Pik Yurnos, second ascent. With help from the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund, Melis Coady and I spent several weeks during August and September climbing in Kyrgyzstan. After climbing several snow, rock, and ice routes in Ala Archa National Park, o...
Reminiscences of Seven Summers in CanadaConrad KainMY FIRST two climbing seasons, 1909 and 1910, in the Rockies, were spent along the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. In 1911 I joined Mr. A. O. Wheeler’s survey, covering the territory fr...
Looking for Mo. Daniel Duane. Farrar, Straus and Giroux: New York, 1998. 230 pages. $22.00.Looking for Mo is Duane’s first book of fiction and his second book in which climbing is the central action. His earlier book, Lighting Out, was an autobiog...
Handbook of Travel. Prepared for the Harvard Travellers’ Club.Edited by George Cheever Shattuck. Second edition, revised and enlarged. 510 pages. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1935.Unstinted praise is due to the Harvard Travellers’ Club for...
Shimshal White Horn, history. In 1984 Dick Renshaw and Stephen Venables, taking advantage of new trekking regulations allowing visits with minimal formalities to high points up to 6,000m in designated areas, explored the lower Malangutti Glacier. ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE SELFBELAY (SLACK IN ROPE)California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Tuesday, October 13, 1992, Mark Ousley (32) began a roped solo ascent of the Shield (VI 5.9 A3). That day he climbed another party’s...
A Fine Kind of Madness: Mountain Adventures Tall and True. Laura and Guy Waterman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 192 pages. $16.95.That first hike itself was just three miles, but I remained untutored in my father’s northern New England ethic...
Summer in the DolomitesHans KrausTHE southern foothills of the Alps do not rise immediately to high glacier peaks. In the east, they form relatively low ranges, little higher than 3000 meters—the southern limestone Alps. The Italian part of these ...
Mukut Himal and Kanjiroba Himal. The 1959 American Himalayan Expedition returned to Kathmandu on November 30, after a successful trip of two-and-a-half months into the area north and west of Dhaulagiri, in central Western Nepal. The group consiste...
Kaqur-Kangri first ascent, no-trace efforts, and survey of the region. Five members of Doshisha University Alpine Club made the first ascent of Kaqur-Kangri on September 24. Located near the headwaters the Yalung Tsangpo River, Kaqur-Kangri is the...
The Grand Teton in WinterGeorge H. Lowe IIISINCE Glenn Exum had kindly given permission to use the guides’ hut on the saddle, we spent a companionable evening cooking dinner and discussing with Jock Glidden, Hal Gribble, Dave Lowe and Dave Smith t...
Chomo Lonzo NorthAlpine style on a difficult new route to a Tibetan summit.Patrice Glairon-RappazI am lying in my tent, listening to some sweet music and daydreaming about our climbs on this amazing expedition. Tomorrow, we will start our journey ...
Slushflow Avalanches of the Atigun Pass Region, Central Brooks Range, AlaskaChristopher R. Smith*, Department of Geography, Indiana UniversitySLUSHFLOW AVALANCHES of the Atigun Pass of the central Brooks Range were again investigated during the 19...
Alpamayo. Our party consisted of John Amatt, Dave Bathgate, Terry Burnell, our cameraman, Ned Kelly, Roy Smith and myself. We assembled in Huaraz at the beginning of June and proceeded with all our equipment down the Santa River valley to Molinapa...
Stonehouse Buttress, Dynamo-Hum. In November Dick Swindon and I climbed the first right-facing dihedral from the C.A.F. route. After staying in the dihedral for three F10 pitches, we turned the roof at the top on the left, then the route follows t...
Thoughts About EverestStacy Allison and Geoffrey TabinMY FIRST EXPOSURE to the great Himalayan peaks was on the 1982 American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to Ama Dablam’s Southwest Ridge. As I stood atop Ama Dablam, I had my first glimpse of Evere...
Jannu, north face, new route summary. The historic climb in the Nepalese Himalaya during the pre-monsoon season was the successful ascent and descent by a direct route via the north face of Jannu by aRussian team (with one Kyrgyzstani member) led ...
Mountains of Northern AlaskaThe general name, Brooks Range, covers the several mountain groups in Alaska N. of the Arctic Circle. The highest triangulated peaks, now known, are probably Mt. Chamberlin in the Franklin Mts., and Mt. Michelson in the...
Dawa Peak, north face, first ascent of Snotty’s Gully. Jon Bracey and I landed in Lukla on October 6. Four days later we arrived at base camp, which in our case was Gokyo Resort Lodge situated at 4,800m. Day five was spent stashing gear beneath th...
A Fine Conditioning Climb. “Park your car, walk a mile, and enjoy 5000 ft. of arduous, constantly exposed climbing”—such is the invitation offered by the N. Face of Mt. Johannesberg. I have accepted the invitation twice, and spent 32 and 31 hours ...