Ortochasma Valley, Exploration, and Ascents in the Karavshin. On our latest climbing trips we have always tried to visit unpublished sites. This conies with the high risk of making a deep blunder. This year our attention was hooked by an unknown v...
Nanda Ghunti. A British expedition led by Dr. Ian Teasdale climbed Nanda Ghunti (6309 meters, 20,700 feet) in September. Details are missing.
Chong Kumdan and Other Peaks. Our expedition consisted of Indians Muslim H. Contractor, Bhupesh Ashar, Vijay Kothari, Dhiren Pania, Ajay Tambe and me as leader, Britons David Wilkinson as British leader, Paul Nunn, Lindsay Griffin, John Porter, Ne...
Lotus Flower Tower, New Route, 1975. In August of 1975, the Colorado climber Bill Putnam and I visited the Logan Mountains. Our objective was the impressive unclimbed face on Parrot Beak Peak in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, previously attempted...
Whitney Portal, El Segundo Buttress, Too-Loose-To-Trek. In October Alan Roberts, Mark Menge and I put up this new route taking a line to the left of the Beckey route. It is a route of fine and unusual quality. NCCS III, F9.Jack Roberts, Buff Alpin...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On July 31, Leslie-Ann Smith (23), a Tacoma resident, was climbing down the Fryingpan Glacier after a climb on the Little Tahoma Ridge with a party of four. While at the edge of the glacier th...
Penstemon Dome. Jerry Coe and I apparently made the first climb of this prominent rock formation, the second dome east of Courtwright Dam, in the spring. The climb features a system of continuous cracks on firm granite (with a few wild flowers) an...
Goldfinger. This spectacularly thin 125-foot granite needle on the “Cleaver” of the Sawtooth Ridge area was first climbed by Joe Brown and me on October 27. On a clear day illuminated by fresh snow, we climbed thin cracks on the vertical west face...
Mount Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu Ascents. Kazakhastan climber Anatoli Boukreev made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks in 1995. His story appears earlier in this journal.
East Face of Goat Flat’s Plateau. David Ravert, Ed Poznanski, and I ascended the snowfield which empties into Golden Lake (upstream from Phillips Lake). Although this snow chute is 1500 feet in vertical height, the climb covered 2000 surface feet ...
Cordillera Occidental, High Altitude Archaeology and Various Ascents. High altitude archae- ology was again the focus of several expeditions on the volcanoes near Arequipa during the last three months of 1997. Team leaders Jose Antonio Chavez (Uni...
Stanford Alpine Club. During the year the Stanford Alpine Club continued its program of informal instruction for beginning and intermediate climbers. Practice climbs were held almost every Sunday of the academic year, while instruction and supervi...
Juriques and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modem Ascents. American anthropologist J. Rinehard, accompanied by J. Sarracino and Ana María Barón, Chilean researchers, made several ascents near Licancabur. On August 31 Rinehard climbed Licancabur itself a...
Cordillera Yauyos and Siulá Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Expeditión Barcelona was composed of the climbers Francisco Guillamón, Venancio López, Miguel Muñoz, Jorge Pons, the scientists Alberto Folch, Augusto Panyella, Eudaldo Serra, and mysel...
Kayo Zom, Pechus Zom, Gainthir Zorn, Das Bar Zorn and Other Peaks. On June 17 Elfriede Baltuska, Viktoria Hribar, Gerulf Wilhelm, Günther Wöhrl, and I of the Vienna Academic Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) left Vienna to drive overland t...
A Sendero Luminoso Visit to a Canadian Base Camp. At five A.M. on July 29, our Base Camp at Jahuacocha was alarmed by the blast of a grenade! We were victims of a Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) guerrilla visitation. The guerrillas had word that t...
Mount Everest, Reconnaissance from the North. In preparation for the joint Japanese-Chinese expedition to the northern side of Mount Everest, the Japanese sent a nine-man team under the leadership of Dr. Junsei Saito. Base Camp was set up on the R...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Casaval RidgeOn April 28, an experienced young man (17) was climbing alone to train for a Denali climb this season. He fell while down-climbing in loose rocks on Casaval Ridge about 11,000 ...
Additional Articles from the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest.Blume, F.D., S.J. Boyer, L.E. Braverman, A. Cohen, J. Dirkse and J.P. Mordes. Impaired osmoregulation at high altitude. J.A.M.A. 252: 524-526, 1984.Boyer, S.J. and F...
Tilitso Tragedy. A 16-member German expedition led by Hans Huhn had hoped to climb Tilitso. During the approach to Base Camp, a huge snow avalanche on the west side of the Mesokanta La caught ten climbers. Rudolf Spring-mann and Hermann Ebert were...