El Toro, Central Pillar, “El Sendero Luminoso, ” El Potrero Chico, Nuevo León. On March 30, Kurt Smith, Pete Peacock and I summited on the central pillar of El Toro, a 2000-foot limestone spire. Kevin Gallagher, Terry Christenson and I had bolted ...
AndesA German party consisting of Dr. Kinzl (leader), Hans Schweizer, Karl Schmid, Siegfried Rohrer and Walter Brecht was active in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru this last summer. Schweizer, Schmid and Rohrer completed from the W. the ascent of Ne...
FALL ON LOOSE ROCK, WEATHER, PARTY SEPARATED California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn May 31, 1993, at 1630, John McMillan reported his climbing partner, Ian Johnston (27) overdue from descending Sentinel Rock. After climbing the Chouinard/Her...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route, Rupal Face. Our expedition was composed of Germans Peter Mezger, Volker Stallbohm, Jens Holthusen, Karl Wolfner and me as leader, French Etienne Robein, Alain Cokkinos and Isabelle Leclerc, and Czechs Dr. Volker and Ren...
FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Southern Selkirks, Mt. Marion. Four climbers were approaching the crest of the ridge of Mt. Marion at about 7,700 feet at 1130 hours on August 3, 1976, and were traversing some moderately steep solid slabs. They were...
Corean Alpine Club expedition leader, Kang Sung-woo, returned to the north face of Cholatse in 2003 after bad weather thwarted an attempt the previous year. In 2002 the intended line had been a new route up the right side of the face but after nea...
Greenland. Paul-Émile Victor, leader of the Expédition Polaire Française, has been for many months recently in western Greenland, E. of Disko Island. With 34 companions, he has been continuing the program of research initiated in 1948 in meteorolo...
The American Alpine Club has received permission to send a small expedition to the Karakoram. A party of six climbers will leave New York early in April, follow the route of the Duke of the Abruzzi from Srinagar to the Baltoro Glacier, and camp at...
Churup, South Face. Andrej Markovic and Matej Meglic climbed the south face of Churup* (5493 m) on July 7. A few days before the ascent they fixed ropes over the first two rock pitches. They spent the night on the summit and next day descended the...
Nevada de Chañi, South Face, Northern Andes. Nevado de Chañi is Argentina’s northernmost high peak and a remarkable rock pyramid of 6060 meters (19,881 feet). A. Gantov, J. González and O. di Pietro (of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires) reached the ...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Many new free climbs have been made in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Most are on a slightly smaller scale than other recent free climbs, but these newer climbs are just as or more desirable since they can easily b...
BloodSport and various ascents. In the spring Zach Smith and I climbed a new route between Ament’s Chimney and Kachina Wings. The IV 5.12b route is a sustained line worthy of repeats and should continue to improve with traffic. We found a faded sl...
CLIMBING ALONE, DISAPPEARED, POSSIBLE FALL INTO CREVASSEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonOn July 31, L.B. (23) departed Berg Lake to climb Mount Robson’s Fuhrer Ridge with a planned descent of the Kain Face. He failed to...
Lofoten Islands, Vagakallen, Freya. It was reported that in July, the German couple Daniela and Robert Jasper established a 30-pitch, 800-meter route, Freya (F7c A3+), on Vagakallen (942m).The route takes the front face of the mountain’s most prom...
SLIP ON RAPPEL, INEXPERIENCE, PANICWyoming, TetonsOn July 13, 1984, David Lipscomb (18) injured his left hand when it was caught between his rappel rope and an overhanging rock lip while participating in an Exum Beginning Climbing School in Cascad...
Tokosha Mountains. The Teton-like Tokosha Mountains, named in 1906 by Belmore Browne and meaning “the place where there are no trees” in Tanaina, lie between the termini of the Ruth and Tokositna Glaciers. This granite-cored, compact uplift was a ...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INEXPERIENCE Idaho, Mount BorahOn May 26,1986, Glynda Miller (age unknown) and Geoff Lyons set out to climb Mount Borah. On May 27, Idaho Mountain Search and Rescue received a call from Don Miller to say ...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition consisted of Dr. Christian Brückler, Franz Prasicek, Walter Lösch, Ewald Lidl, Monika Göttinger and me as leader, and later of Eduard Koblmüller and Fred Pressl. We hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Nanga Parbat, t...
Pamirs. A Soviet-Chinese expedition was active in the Trans-Alai Group in the western Pamirs. Nineteen members of the expedition made, on August 14, 1955, the first ascent of a 22,227-foot neighbor of Peak Lenin, which they named Peak of Unity "as...
Colorado—Stanley Peak, near Berthoud Pass: On August 10, 1952, William Eaton fell a total of 8 feet breaking a hip and suffering a brain concussion. This mishap took place on a CMC Mountain trip, and the leader felt that there was no danger at the...