P. 5400m, Ascent. It was reported that a five-man German team (Markus Aigneherr, Martin Grziwarsch, Bernd Illguth, Christian Schultes and Florian Siemer) climbed the north pillar of a 5400-meter rock spire above the Biafo Glacier. They established...
Mount Temple, North Face in Winter. Barry Blanchard and I climbed a winter route on the north face of Mount Temple from March 16 to 18. We believe it is a new line. It had been tried twice earlier in the season by two other teams which were thwart...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTOregon, Smith Rock, Crack of InfinityOn June 3, Rod Lucas (45) was leading Crack of Infinity, a 5.10b trad route rated three stars, requiring gear to three inches, according to Alan Watts’ Climbers Guide to Smith...
It was reported that Albino Pon and Rodman and Marcus Garcia put up the 11-pitch Spanish Harlem (a.k.a. The Prow, 5.11+ A1) over 13 days on Cerro E1 Gavilan near E1 Portrero Chico. The route was established ground-up and is mostly naturally protec...
Sangemar Attempt, Batura Mustagh. A four-man Japanese party led by Yoshihisa Tagawa failed to climb Sangemar (6949 meters, 22,800 feet) after reaching 20,375 feet from Camp III on July 17. Their attempt was from the Muchichul Glacier. (More inform...
T. M. Griffiths and the writer, with Gordon Williams leading, made the second ascent of Teakettle Mountain (13,725 ft.) a beautiful peak east of Cirque Mt. It was not particularly difficult, except for the last 600 feet. The peak has an excellent ...
SLIP, FALL FROM TOWER, INADEQUATE BELAY British Columbia, Expo 86-Alberta PavilionOn June 17, 1986, the daily demonstration climbing of the Alberta Pavilion at Expo 86 had been suspended after a Calgary woman fell and broke her left ankle while sc...
Mana Peak Attempt. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation selected 18 women and 18 men with me as leader to try out the climbers and their gear for next year’s Everest expedition on Mana Peak (7272 meters, 23,858 feet). Mana Peak was first climbed b...
Half Dome, Tis-Sa-Ack Climbed by a Paraplegic. Mike Corbet and paraplegic climber Mark Wellman, who serves as a Yosemite Park Ranger, climbed the Tis-Sa-Ack route on Half Dome, reaching the top on September 16 after 13 days on the wall. They suffe...
Royal Tower, Southeast Face, Little Switzerland. During a week-long trip to Little Switzerland, Lloyd Miller and I climbed on July 10 and 11 a new route on the southeast face of the Royal Tower (2478 meters, 8130 feet.) The route starts to the rig...
Anchorage Mount McKinley Expedition. Helga Bading, Andy Brauchli, Paul Crews and Rod Wilson were flown to 8200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 7 to join Chuck Metzger, who had been flown in the day before. On May 16 they established their sixt...
Yalungkang. Yalungkang was climbed via its southeast face by a Korean expedition led by Park Soo-Jo. On October 13, Sho Kang-Ho with Ang Dawa Tamang and Gombu Sherpa completed the 18th ascent of the peak.Elizabeth Hawley
Temple Peak. On August 12, Woody Stark and I climbed Temple Peak by a new route that starts from Temple Pass. We climbed up talus to the base of the spire between Silver Saddle and the Class-4 route, around its right side and then up to the saddle...
A. A. C., Cascade Section. In the spring, just prior to the departure of the K-2 expedition, Dee Molenaar and Pete Schoening, of our Section, gave an excellent account of the plans for the trip and had available for examination various items of eq...
Everest Attempt. A six-man Australian expedition was led by Michael Groom. They first attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest from the Western Cwm, getting to 7400 meters on April 24. They then turned to the South Col route, where they reache...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—PULLED OUT, FATIGUE Utah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn October 1, 1988, a male climber (35) was making a move at the top of a climb on Ledgemore Wall when his hand slipped from a hold and he fell ten meters, his prot...
Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel Books. Diadem Books, London & The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 800 pages. $30.00.This is the age of re-runs, revivals, retreads of old classics. On Broadway, in the White House and the air waves, nostalgia...
The Mountain World 1955. English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. 222 pages, 64 illustrations, 24 maps. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1955. Price $6.00.The third annual volume published by the Swiss Research Foundation is even better than its pr...
Guillaumet and Mermoz. Briton Andy Parkin and American Stephen Koch completed a new route on the Aguja Guillaumet’s southeast face on February 2. The difficult route lies to the left of the Piola route. It begins up a large central couloir and fin...
Trivor. An Anglo-American expedition under the leadership of Wilfred Noyce made the first ascent of Trivor (25,325 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh. From the Trivor Glacier they reached the col between Trivor and Momhil Sar, where they established Camp...