In Memoriam AAJ
Timothy Ifor Morgan Lewis, 1944-1984

TIMOTHY IFOR MORGAN LEWIS1944-1984Tim Lewis, editor of Mountain from 1978 to 1984, died of cancer on August 23. He changed the magazine’s international scope and style to match a rapidly evolving climbing world and changing tastes.He was bom in Ab...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park

Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 5, Mr. David Fredenburg (25) was struck in the face by bounding rock at 1:30 a.m. while climbing from upper Cowlitz Glacier onto Cowlitz Cleaver below Camp Misery. Rock was dislodged by fellow cli...


Notes AAJ
North America, United States, West Virginia, Baker Rock

Baker Rock, West Virginia. On the slopes of Elkhorn Ridge, a few miles E. of Petersburg, W. Va., erosion has exposed a remarkable formation of cliffs and pinnacles, locally known as Baker Rock. This quartzite expanse for many years excited the cur...


Book Reviews AAJ
Winterland Tirol

Winterland Tirol. By Robert Löbl. Trilingual text by Heinrich Kher. 80 illustrations by Viktor Herzner. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1956. Price 80 Sch.Uniform with the writer’s "Tirol," "Karwendel," and "Kolomiten," we are carried in this book to ...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks

High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks. Jill Neate. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989. 213 pages, 140 photographs, 79 in color, 57 maps, and end papers. $46.00.This extremely valuable resource book names 446 peaks between the hei...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Trapecio, South Face

Trapecio, South Face. It was reported that in 1997, Francois Baroux, Frédéric Bréhé, Pierre Plaze and Christophe Vigne climbed a line on the south face of Trapecio (5653m) that followed the prominent twisting couloir to the left of the Lowe Route ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rappel Error—Anchor Knot Failed, Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood Canyon

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR KNOT FAILEDUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 17, Harmer Kirt fell while rappelling at Storm Mountain in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Kirt fell 15 to 20 feet and injured his ankle and wrist. Mr. Kirt ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Maparaju

Maparaju, 1980. New Zealanders Tony Teeling and Ross Ogden climbed Maparaju (5326 meters, 17,474 feet) by the first-ascent route, the southwest face, in 1980.


Accident Reports ANAM
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Cucamonga Peak

California, San Gabriel Mountains, Cucamonga Peak—Dennis Langford (16), Kirk Muscat (17), and Steve Brimhoff (17), of Ontario, California, hiked up Cucamonga Canyon, west of Cucamonga Peak, San Gabriel Mountain, California, early in the week betwe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Zion Canyon, Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported

Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported. The large, top-to-bottom, crescent-shaped, left-facing dihedral system on the Left Twin Brother’s northwest face marks The Promised Land (VI 5.10 A3, 13 pitches). First a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow and Ice, Climbing Unroped, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Longs Peak

FALL ON SNOW AND ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATColorado, Longs PeakOn September 16, Brant Kauth called the dispatch office from Longs Ranger Station and reported that his climbing partner, Harvy Schneider (22) had been involved in a climbing a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 11, Madrone Coopwood (24) slid 200 feet on Lambs Slide at Longs Peak. Coopwood struck the rocks at the base of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Bertha Northeast Ridge

Mount Bertha, Northeast Ridge. On July 14 Kevin Haberl, Peter Mair, Bruce Blackwell and I reached the summit of Mount Bertha (3110 meters, 10,204 feet) via its northeast ridge. The lightweight expedition was entirely self-supported from kayaks. Ou...


Accident Reports ANAM
Montana, Cabinet Range, Snowshoe Peak

Montana, Ravalli County. In mid-June, Thomas Peterson (15) and Gene Saycuich (23) were climbing in a mountain range in Ravalli County in pursuit of pictures and game. They had covered considerable territory and when they decided to return they too...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Gangotri, Shivling, West Ridge, Various Ascents

Shivling, West Ridge, Various Ascents. It was reported that two teams were successful on Shivling’s west ridge: a four-man German team led by Walter Haderadorfer, on August 22 and 23, in two different groups; and a nine-member Korean team led by M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hunter, West Buttress Attempt

DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessful ClimbersWest Buttress104311153West Buttress (Guided)25200116Muldrow Glacier6159Muldrow Glacier (Guided)22619West Rib14355West Rib (Guided)2131...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, First Winter Ascent

Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, first winter ascent. Four bluebird days and stellar conditions in February 2005 allowed Colin Haley (20) and me (42) to finally climb Mt. Stuart’s Complete North Ridge in winter. It was my 7th attempt in 17 years ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche — Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Marmot Basin

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Marmot BasinOn February 22, 1982, at about 12:15 p.m., five downhill skiers traversed to the Sherpa Run just outside the boundary of the Marmot Basin ski area, and just above timberline. As they arrived, they tri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar

Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route on the northwest face of Dragontail Peak on September 6. Starting to the west of the Boving Route, on the opposite end of the br...


Book Reviews AAJ
Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature

Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature, Third Edition. Edited by Yoshimi Yakushi. Hakusuigha Publishing Co., Ltd., Tokyo, 1994. 1320 pages. ¥55,000 (about $550.00).Comment: The long-awaited third edition of Yakushi’s catalogue has 7100 entries in t...