Southern Kangerdlugssuaq, Kronprins Frederiks Berge, first ascents. From July 23 to August 15 eight British climbers (Pete Brooks, Bill Church, Brian Davison, Clive Dandridge, Pete Nelson, Mick Pettipher, Graham Robinson, and Dave Wilkinson) visit...
Lhukho East II. Masataka Suzuki and Shigeaki Tanaka of Tohkai and Hohsei Universities left Chitral on July 12 and got to Base Camp at 12,500 feet on the Chhutidum Glacier on July 20. From Advanced Base at 13,750 feet they began reconnaissance of L...
Mukut Parvat East, Correction, and First Ascent. The 1998 expedition from South Korea led by Oksun Hong (see 1999 AAJ, p. 355) claimed the first ascent of Mukut Parvat East (7130m) in the Garhwal. The expedition claimed to have reached the summit ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, GodzillaMark Kent (42) and his father, Terry Kent (64), arrived at Smith Rock State Park on a Saturday morning, September 18, to find that the trad climbs they...
Dharamsura or White Sail. Captain Jagdish Singh, Captain U. Bhot- nagar, Jamadar Paras Ram and Ladakhi porters Ringzin, Jungphu and Namgyal made the fourth ascent of Dharamsura or White Sail (21,148 feet) on September 13. They set out from Camp IV...
Cerro Stanhardt, 1989. In AAJ, 1990, we reported on the new route of Mauricio Giarolli, Ermanno Salvaterra and Elio Orlandi on the west face of Cerro Stanhardt. After two weeks of bad weather, they then repeated the Bridwell-Smith-Smith route on t...
On July 4, 1987, Matt Steinkamp had been rock climbing with Steve Roberts, a county resident, in the top center section of Eagle Rocks during the afternoon. They had been using ropes and other standard climbing gear, but at the time of the acciden...
Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak Traverse. From June 23 to 30 Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traversed Gasherbrum II and Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I). Totally alpine-style, they climbed with no help from anyone else. They ascended Gasherbrum II...
Huascarán, Southwest Ridge. Our party included Thomas Bowen, Stu During, Richard Hildner, Richard “Munch” Cussler and me. Our route was the southwest ridge of Huascarán to the summit of the south spur at 21,031 feet. We all reached this summit on ...
In August, Christopher Townsend (27), an experienced climber from Cambridge, Massachusetts, took a 20-foot fall that left him hanging unconscious on his rope for about two minutes. He walked out of the hospital later in the day “courtesy of his he...
Gyala Peri. In 1985 the Himalayan Association of Japan sent two men to reconnoiter Gyala Peri, which lies just north of the great bend of the Yalu-Tsangpo (Brahmaputra). In 1986 an expedition of six returned with Kazuo Tobita as their leader. The ...
Spider Rock. In March 1956 Mark Powell, Don Wilson and Jerry Gallwas, all Sierra Club members, made the first ascent of Spider Rock, an 800-foot sandstone spire in the northeastern corner of Arizona in the Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Altho...
Namcha Barwa and Nai Peng. Namcha Barwa (7782 meters, 25,531 feet) lies at the eastern tip of the Himalaya entirely in the People’s Republic of China at 29° 37' 51" N, 95°03'31" E. The meaning of the name is “Stones which fell from the Heavens.” T...
Pingora, Northeast Face, Wind River Range. On August 28, Fred Beckey, Franziska Schawalder Garrett and I climbed three long new pitches on the northeast face of Pingora about 150 feet to the right (west) of the classic Daley-Yensan route. After mu...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Symmetry Spire. On 26 July Michael Feldman (33) and Lydia Sims (15) decided to leave the north snow couloir on Symmetry Spire due to their limited experience on snow. Sims led the first pitch on the rock until it became too ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, CUT ROPE WITH KNIFE- PANIC, INADEQUATE EXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, North’s CliffsOn May 11, 1991, at 1530, an accident occurred while the Grand County Search and Rescue Team was practicing at A...
Changtse, Northeast Ridge Attempt. We arrived at Everest Base Camp after a five-day motorcade adventure from Lhasa. Initially blessed with good weather, we were able to establish Camp I and Advance Base at 18,000 and 20,000 feet on September 13 an...
Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Hole in the Head. Rick Carlton Studley III and I climbed a 1,000-foot variation to the route Hole in the Sky located in Ribbon Falls Amphitheater this September. The variation started out on Reason Beyond Insanity and he...
RAPPEL FAILURE—Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Denali. On 27 May 1974, a party of eight was descending after a successful climb up the Cassin Route on the south face of Mt. Denali. On the final pitch down to the head of the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltn...
Gasherbrum II Attempt by Andorrans. The first Andorran expedition to the mountains of Asia had five Andorrans: Gerard Olm, leader, Gerard Montestruc, Nadia Alex, Jaume Espunyes and Oriol Riba; and five Spaniards resident in Andorra: Dr. Xabier Rov...