The Alpine Club of Canada. The highlight of 2000 was the Mount Alberta climbing and trekking program held in commemoration of the first ascent of the peak 75 years ago. One climbing team and six trekking groups composed of 80 Japanese members of t...
Everest Attempts from the North. There were many attempts to climb Everest from Tibet in the post-monsoon period, but none were successful. Several are noted below separately. Groups were on the North Col route. Swiss Norbert Joos and Diego Wellig...
Latok I and II. Two different Japanese expeditions were in the Latok group from July to September. The Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Makoto Hara. Tremendous avalanches and rockfall persuaded them to give up trying Latok I (2...
P 10,400, Southwest of Mount McKinley. On November 3 Rick Morris, John Peltner, A1 Johnson and I flew in to P 10,400 to try the unclimbed west ridge. After five days of a heavy, wet snowstorm, we began to climb the steep corniced ridge. Protecting...
Mount Rainier, Curtis Ridge again. On Memorial Day weekend Paul Williams, Bill Dougall, Steve Marts, and I made the second recorded ascent of Mount Rainier’s Curtis Ridge. The first ascent was by Gene Prater and Marcel Schuster in 1957. Camp was m...
STRANDED—POOR POSITION, IMBEDDED CARABINER California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside BenchOn June 18, 1994, Josh Klikna (14) and his two brothers were learning to lead at Sunnyside Bench. Josh fell several times while attempting Raisin, a poorly prot...
Peak 12,960, South Face. In May, 1976 Jay Foster, Shari Nelson, and I spent two and a half days ascending a new route up the south face of this peak that is directly west of Lone Pine peak. Our route followed a large chimney system right of center...
Wyoming, Casper Mountain (Laramie Range), Garden Creek Canyon— On March 2 Karen Stubbs (19) wearing galoshes, slipped on the ice- covered trail just above the canyon wall, slid, fell, and rolled 160 feet. The fifteen foot slide on ice and packed s...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER—California, Yose- mite Valley. Randall Iwasiuk (21) and Chris Robbins (22) were climbing the South Face Column on February 19. They ended the day on the third pitch. By the end of the day on February 20, they made...
Perlilla, Cordillera Blanca and Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Shibaura University of Engineering expendition was led by Ko Kato and composed also of Yukio Ohe, Takashi Suzuki, Motoaki Ishinabe, Akira Kurihara, Tokeo Umehara and Hiromichi Miy...
Fisher Towers, Various Ascents. It was reported that Crusher Bartlett and Dave Levine climbed Beaking in Tongues, a seven-pitch route on the west face of the Oracle that was rated “somewhere between A2+ and A4” and used no bolts. On the south face...
Anyemaqen. Japanese climbers from Yamanashi Prefecture led by Masahiro Saegusa climbed Anyemaqen (6282 meters, 20,610 feet). They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4710, 5060 and 5500 meters on July 29, 30 and August 4. On August 7, Mino...
Shara Shuwa, First Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Prof. Masato Oki reached the summit (6236 meters) on August 16-17. This peak lies in southeast Ladakh, overlooking Tso Moriri lake. It is the northernmost point on the Mentok Ridge rising beh...
Staircase Arête, Mount Moran. First ascent on August 28, 1959 by Dave Dornan and Al Read. We two first tried this fine ridge in 1957 after noticing it from the South Buttress route. It is located between the south ridge of Drizzlepuss and the wate...
Jaonli Peak, Garhwal. An expedition of Indian schoolboys and two schoolmasters, led by Hari Dang of the Doon School, attempted 21,760- foot Jaonli Peak in the Uttarkashi district of Garhwal. They were stopped at 19,300 feet by bad weather.
Nuptse, Northwest Peak. Although the seven-man-and-a-woman Japanese expedition did not reach the main summit, it could by no means be called a failure as they climbed the long northwest ridge which overlooks the lower western Cwm of Everest and re...
Vega Peak. This peak lies directly north of Morning Star Peak, and is prominently seen from Barlow Pass. Paul Williams, Klindt Vielbig and I had come to attempt it on the morning of September 4. Taking the Sunrise Mine trail from the Mountain Loop...
Chopicalqui, Entire Northwest Ridge. From the Llanganuco valley on July 30 Alberto Campanile and I climbed the trail towards the Portechuelo (pass), which we left before the high point. We climbed the moraine of Chopicalqui’s north side to the beg...
Jangyaraju, from the Southeast. After an unsuccessful attempt on the west ridge of Huandoy Oeste by Trev Briggs, Les Brown, George Jackson and me, in early July Brown and Briggs climbed Janyaraju from the Quebrada Llaca from the southeast via the ...
New peaks in Southwestern Chinn. In a splendidly illustrated article in the National Geographic Magazine for October, 1930, Dr. Joseph F. Rock reports a visit to a new district of 20,000-ft. peaks in southwestern China. The highest is Minya Konka,...