Trinity Peak Attempt. Trinity Peak (c. 6800 meters, 22,310 feet) lies at the head of the Chogolisa Glacier, three days’ walk from the roadhead village of Hushe. We had hoped to climb the dramatic central spur of the southeast face. The vertical ri...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1984, with membership remaining at 1000. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were from one...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cougar CanyonAbout 1500 on May 13, Kananaskis E.M.S. received a call regarding an injured rock climber up Cougar Creek. They notified Park rangers and Canmore Fire Department, then left...
Ministry of Tourism post monsoon statistics. The Ministry of Tourism reported that 76 expeditions comprising 490 members from 18 different countries were permitted to climb 36 peaks over 6,000m. The total amount raised in royalty fees was Rs 21,60...
Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts. As has been the case in past years, many climbers have been attracted to Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,360 feet). Those noted here were on the standard route. From a six-man German expedition led by Rollo Steff...
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu Icefall. There appears earlier in this Journal an article written by Jack Starmer on the rate of movement of the ice in the Khumbu Icefall.
Le Main de Fatima, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Grant Farquar, Louise Thomas and Mike “Twid” Turner established the 450-meter Grains of Time (British E4 5c) on the north face of the north tower of Suri Tondo in January...
Jirishanca, East Ridge. The east ridge of Jirishanca was first attempted unsuccessfully by Frenchmen Stéphane Dewèze, Antoine Noury and Peruvian Rodrigo Callupe. The two Frenchmen made a second attempt. After six days on the ridge, on steep, soft ...
Ahab, 1986. Ronald Van Horssen, Steve Drake and I climbed the striking pillar on the lower southwest face of Ahab in August 1986. We ascended the striking pillar, which has several spectacular towers, and ends on the south summit of Ahab (II, 5.8)...
El Mocho, Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Torre, 1991-2. Steve Gerberding and I arrived at Campo Bridwell in the Torre valley on November 22, 1991. That same day, we made two carries, set up camp and finally got to sleep at three A.M. the following morn...
Cordillera Real, Huayna Potosí Group. The Chileans Sergio Alvarado and Oscar González made the second ascent of Cunatin Coto (18,280 feet) on September 5, 1955.
Mount Logan, Second Ascent of HubSew Ridge. Originally we thought our route unclimbed, but reading after the climb showed that Vin Hoeman and Will Harrison had ascended this ridge. Adam Kerner, Bob Newman, Roger Robinson, Geraldine Grady, Rick Alb...
Cwalqn, Bitterroot Range. Stephen Porcella has written an article entitled Minimum Impact” about a climb which he and Bruce Anderson made in the Bitterroot Mountains of Montana, which appears earlier in this Journal.
Tupopdan. Our expedition made the first ascent of Tupopdan (or Tlipobdan) in the Markhun valley of the Karun Koh region of the northern Karakoram. We were Andy Cave, Tom Richardson, John Stevenson, Joe Simpson and I as leader. We established Base ...
Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cambridge (England) Andean Expedition, under the leadership of John H. Longland and Simon G. McH. Clark, was in the Cordillera Vilcabamba from mid-June to mid-August. Knowing from the British and American part...
Api, Northwest Ridge. An expedition of five South Koreans was led by Lee Thea-Yeon. On May 27, Son Dong-Su, Pemba Tshering Sherpa and Pasang Gyalbo Sherpa completed the fifth ascent of Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet), climbing the northwest ridge.E...
Fremont and Sacajawea, Southwest Faces, Wind River Range. In mid-August, Chris Landry and I climbed routes on the southwest faces of Fremont and Sacajawea, which rise from the upper Titcomb Lake. We had sun, but cold winds and intermittent snow an...
Xuelian Feng, Xinjiang. A Japanese expedition of the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Tsutomu Ogawa. They made the first ascent of the south summit (6527 meters, 21,414 feet) of Xuelian Feng but could not get to the main (north...
Matkash, Hindu Raj. Four climbers from Trieste, Walter Mejak, Bianca Di Beaco, Fioretta Tarlao and Fabio Benedetti climbed above Mastuj and the Yarkuhn valley. They made the difficult ascent of a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet) above the M...
Ribbon Falls, East Portal. Hoping to succeed by sheer weight of numbers, John Evans, Dick Long, Allen Steck and I, aided by a small band of porters transported our tonnage to the Ribbon Falls amphitheater late in June. We brought food, climbing eq...