Pik Kommunizma and Pik der Vier, Pamir. As members of an Austrian group, my Tirolean friend Franz Schösser and I climbed alpine-style Pik der Vier (6380 meters, 20,932 feet) and Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) via the Borodin Buttress. W...
Logan Attempt, Early Bird Buttress.2 Patrick Peterson and I waited for five days at Klaune Lake for flying weather. We flew to the Seward Glacier on May 11, where we waited out another three days of storms. When the weather cleared, we left Base C...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, Happy Hour CragOn May 8, I took a 15-foot ground fall at Happy Hour, resulting in three broken ribs and a partially collapsed lung. Very lucky! I was leading “I, Robot” (5.7), a right-fa...
Menlungtse Western Summit. Menlungtse (7181 meters, 23,560 feet) is one of the most beautiful and difficult peaks in the Himalaya. It has two summits and the higher one to the east remains unclimbed. The local Tibetan name is Jobo Garu, but Eric S...
Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, first ascent of Manara-Potsiny. We spent our summer in Madagacar’s winter, climbing for the month of August in the Tsaranoro Valley. Our gang of four consisted of Felix Frieder, Benno Wagner, and myself from Germany...
Desert Shield, First Hammerless Ascent. The nine-pitch Desert Shield saw its first clean ascent by Mark Bennett and Kevin Lawlor.Eric Bjørnstad
Himlung Himal, second ascent, first ski descent. Our international expedition (French-Swedish- Algerian), which took place from April 15-June 10, comprised amateur climbers from the Grenoble-Oisans section of the French Alpine Club. The summit of ...
Trinity Peak Attempt. Trinity Peak (c. 6800 meters, 22,310 feet) lies at the head of the Chogolisa Glacier, three days’ walk from the roadhead village of Hushe. We had hoped to climb the dramatic central spur of the southeast face. The vertical ri...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1984, with membership remaining at 1000. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were from one...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cougar CanyonAbout 1500 on May 13, Kananaskis E.M.S. received a call regarding an injured rock climber up Cougar Creek. They notified Park rangers and Canmore Fire Department, then left...
Ministry of Tourism post monsoon statistics. The Ministry of Tourism reported that 76 expeditions comprising 490 members from 18 different countries were permitted to climb 36 peaks over 6,000m. The total amount raised in royalty fees was Rs 21,60...
Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts. As has been the case in past years, many climbers have been attracted to Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,360 feet). Those noted here were on the standard route. From a six-man German expedition led by Rollo Steff...
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu Icefall. There appears earlier in this Journal an article written by Jack Starmer on the rate of movement of the ice in the Khumbu Icefall.
Le Main de Fatima, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Grant Farquar, Louise Thomas and Mike “Twid” Turner established the 450-meter Grains of Time (British E4 5c) on the north face of the north tower of Suri Tondo in January...
Jirishanca, East Ridge. The east ridge of Jirishanca was first attempted unsuccessfully by Frenchmen Stéphane Dewèze, Antoine Noury and Peruvian Rodrigo Callupe. The two Frenchmen made a second attempt. After six days on the ridge, on steep, soft ...
Ahab, 1986. Ronald Van Horssen, Steve Drake and I climbed the striking pillar on the lower southwest face of Ahab in August 1986. We ascended the striking pillar, which has several spectacular towers, and ends on the south summit of Ahab (II, 5.8)...
El Mocho, Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Torre, 1991-2. Steve Gerberding and I arrived at Campo Bridwell in the Torre valley on November 22, 1991. That same day, we made two carries, set up camp and finally got to sleep at three A.M. the following morn...
Cordillera Real, Huayna Potosí Group. The Chileans Sergio Alvarado and Oscar González made the second ascent of Cunatin Coto (18,280 feet) on September 5, 1955.
Mount Logan, Second Ascent of HubSew Ridge. Originally we thought our route unclimbed, but reading after the climb showed that Vin Hoeman and Will Harrison had ascended this ridge. Adam Kerner, Bob Newman, Roger Robinson, Geraldine Grady, Rick Alb...
Cwalqn, Bitterroot Range. Stephen Porcella has written an article entitled Minimum Impact” about a climb which he and Bruce Anderson made in the Bitterroot Mountains of Montana, which appears earlier in this Journal.