Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV Corrections. On page 286 of A.A.J., 1984 there are two mistakes. Broad Peak was climbed on July 1 by the Swiss, obviously not on a nonexistent June 31. The first ascent of Gasherbrum IV by the Italians was made by way ...
Cerro Cervantes, Second Ascent, 1991. Our expedition was composed of Eduard and Ina Koch, Ferdinand Hujer, Kunibert Ochsenfeld, Christine Wieloch and us two. On November 29, 1991, from El Calafate and the Buscaini Camp, the Kochs, Hujer, Ochsenfel...
Everest Attempt. During the post-monsoon season, a large climbing and filming party attempted the north ridge of Qomolongma (Everest) via the traditional Rongbuk-East Rongbuk-North Col route. Our objectives were to climb and film the route. We wer...
HENRY IKARUS MANDOLF1897-1972In October, 1972, Southern California lost one of its most influential mountaineers, Henry Mandolf. He was born in Graz, Austria, and was introduced to mountaineering by his father, who was a high ranking officer in th...
Mt. Kenya, Diamond Couloir, complete ascent. On October 26 my girlfriend Séverine Bornet, who is aspirant guide, and I climbed the Diamond Couloir. It was not in fat condition. The ice was fairly thin, aerated and a little soft, due to warm temper...
Waddington Region, Coast Range. In August, 1956, a group of six, consisting of Adolph and Ulf Bitterlich, of Vancouver Island, Philippe de la Salle, Sylvia Lash, Sarka Spinkova, and Earle Whipple, organized a trip to the Mount Waddington area of t...
Pik Kommunizma and Pik der Vier, Pamir. As members of an Austrian group, my Tirolean friend Franz Schösser and I climbed alpine-style Pik der Vier (6380 meters, 20,932 feet) and Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) via the Borodin Buttress. W...
Logan Attempt, Early Bird Buttress.2 Patrick Peterson and I waited for five days at Klaune Lake for flying weather. We flew to the Seward Glacier on May 11, where we waited out another three days of storms. When the weather cleared, we left Base C...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, Happy Hour CragOn May 8, I took a 15-foot ground fall at Happy Hour, resulting in three broken ribs and a partially collapsed lung. Very lucky! I was leading “I, Robot” (5.7), a right-fa...
Menlungtse Western Summit. Menlungtse (7181 meters, 23,560 feet) is one of the most beautiful and difficult peaks in the Himalaya. It has two summits and the higher one to the east remains unclimbed. The local Tibetan name is Jobo Garu, but Eric S...
Tsaranoro Valley, Tsaranoro Be, first ascent of Manara-Potsiny. We spent our summer in Madagacar’s winter, climbing for the month of August in the Tsaranoro Valley. Our gang of four consisted of Felix Frieder, Benno Wagner, and myself from Germany...
Desert Shield, First Hammerless Ascent. The nine-pitch Desert Shield saw its first clean ascent by Mark Bennett and Kevin Lawlor.Eric Bjørnstad
Himlung Himal, second ascent, first ski descent. Our international expedition (French-Swedish- Algerian), which took place from April 15-June 10, comprised amateur climbers from the Grenoble-Oisans section of the French Alpine Club. The summit of ...
Trinity Peak Attempt. Trinity Peak (c. 6800 meters, 22,310 feet) lies at the head of the Chogolisa Glacier, three days’ walk from the roadhead village of Hushe. We had hoped to climb the dramatic central spur of the southeast face. The vertical ri...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1984, with membership remaining at 1000. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were from one...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cougar CanyonAbout 1500 on May 13, Kananaskis E.M.S. received a call regarding an injured rock climber up Cougar Creek. They notified Park rangers and Canmore Fire Department, then left...
Ministry of Tourism post monsoon statistics. The Ministry of Tourism reported that 76 expeditions comprising 490 members from 18 different countries were permitted to climb 36 peaks over 6,000m. The total amount raised in royalty fees was Rs 21,60...
Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts. As has been the case in past years, many climbers have been attracted to Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,360 feet). Those noted here were on the standard route. From a six-man German expedition led by Rollo Steff...
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu Icefall. There appears earlier in this Journal an article written by Jack Starmer on the rate of movement of the ice in the Khumbu Icefall.
Le Main de Fatima, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British team of Grant Farquar, Louise Thomas and Mike “Twid” Turner established the 450-meter Grains of Time (British E4 5c) on the north face of the north tower of Suri Tondo in January...