Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Wiencke Island, Ascents

Wiencke Island, Ascents. On January 11, New Zealanders Mike Roberts, Lizzie Craddock, Richard Craddock, Amber Chisholm, Anton Woperis and Steve (last name unknown) started climbing from an anchorage near the Chilean base of Gonzales Videla. A long...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Temple, North Face

Mount Temple, North Face. The summer of 1969 was a rainy summer in the Canadian Rockies. During a brief respite Brian Greenwood and I did a new route on the north face of Mount Temple. Our route follows a 3000-foot rock rib up the left side of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Arches National Park

Arches National Park. The park, four miles north of Moab, has been the object of many a climber’s attention since the lifting of the ban on climbing named features in 1987. On the Zippy Zebra Wall, good new routes have been added in 1988, includin...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 18 July, Lendol Leach (19) and six companions had gone on an overnight trip to Waterfall Canyon. They had left the marked trail and got into what was described as off-trail rock scrambling. While they were at...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountain Rescue Techniques

Mountain Rescue Techniques by Wastl Mariner. First English edition translated by Otto T. Trott, M.D. and Kurt G. Beam; edited by Harvey H. Manning and Howard R. Miller. Innsbruck: Oesterreichischer Al-penverein, 1964. 195 pages, 117 sketches. Dist...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face Attempt

Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face Attempt. Granger Banks, Richard Soaper, Lyle Dean and I arrived at Gasherbrum I Base Camp on May 19 after eleven days on the Baltoro approach with 23 porters. After placing a food cache at 21,325 feet in the ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Kleines Zermatter Brevier

Kleines Zermatter Brevier, by Paul Budry and Werner Kaempfen. 159 pages, with sketches by Géa Augsburg. Brigue and Lausanne: Visp-Zermatt-Bahn-Gesellschaft, 1941.In 1941, when the Visp-Zermatt railroad had been in existence for half a century, 300...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Teewinot, Second Winter Ascent

Teewinot, Second Winter Ascent. On February 13, Dennis Caldwell, Karin Caldwell, and Joel Bown made the second winter ascent of Teewinot by the southwest couloir. The remarkable feature of this climb was that it was made in one day from the valley...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna (Jannu)

Kumbhakarna (Jannu). Our members were Georg Rubin, Res Leibundgut, Christian von Almen, Bruno Rankwiler, Daniel Anker and I as leader. We reached Base Camp on the Yamatari Glacier at 4400 meters with about 30 porters on October 8. From October 10 ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Monadnock Guide

Monadnock Guide, edited by Henry I. Baldwin. Concord, New Hampshire; Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests, 1970. 128 pages, 31 photos, line drawings, 3 maps. $2.00An attractive, pocket-sized guide of the “biggest little mountain” of...


Notes AAJ
United States, Cascades: Cashmere Crags

Cascades: Cashmere Crags. A plane supplying Fred Beckey and his party with aerial deliveries in this area cracked up recently and, with the exception of valuable parts, had to be abandoned.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, South Face

Pumori, South Face. Base Camp was established on October 7 on the eastern flanks of Kala Pattar. On October 10 we pitched a tent at 5500 meters on Kala Pattar where Rick Allen and I acclimatized. The U.S. members, Morris Kittleman and Dave Saiget,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Northern Patagonian Icecap

Northern Patagonian Icecap. Our party consisting of the Chilean Rómulo Tarsetti S. and New Zealanders David J. Launder, leader, R. David Clark, Ray B. Molineux, Neville J. Palmer and I, was north of Cerro Arenales on the Northern Icecap between 46...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Trapecio, Southeast Face Direct

Trapecio, Southeast Face Direct. On July 10 Branko Ivanek, Miha Lampreht, and I (all from Slovenia), and Aritza Monasterio (Spanish-Basque, living in Huaraz) completed the central route (800m, ED+ AI6 M5 A2) on the southeast face of Trapecio (5,64...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Peak 6118m, Ascent

Peak 6118m, Ascent. Peak 6118m (near Yunan Tso, Baralacha Pass) is an unnamed peak on the Manali-Leh highway and is easy to approach. A Snout Adventurers Association, Calcutta, led by Ujjal Roy, established a base camp on August 17. Seven members ...


Notes AAJ
Asia, India, Sherpa Love of the Mountains

Sherpa Love of the Mountains. Charles S. Houston has made available a letter from the wife of Angtharkay, famous Everest Sherpa, to Major H. W. Tilman, who had written asking for Angtharkay’s services. Part of the letter follows:Lama VillaBhutia B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Quesillo, East Ridge, Electric Lane, to Near Summit; Huaraca, North Ridge and Northeast Face Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Between July 22 and August 12, Tom Bide, Martin Lane, Graeme Schofield, and I went to the southern spur of the Cordillera Huayhuash. First, and most eventfully, we went to Quesillo’s east ridge (a.k.a. Electric Lane). This route had seen attempts ...

| Published N/A | Author Carl Reilly


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Buni Zom Group

Buni Zom Group. The Oyama High School Old Boys Alpine Club consisted of Hirotaka Saegi, leader, Tadashi Sugita and Toshinori Kiuchi. They climbed to the Khorabohrt Glacier from the Phargam Gol via a 1000-foot-high waterfall, which was easier than ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctica Traverse by Messner and Fuchs, 1989-1990

Antarctica Traverse by Messner and Fuchs, 1989-1990. From November 13, 1989 to February 12, 1990, Reinhold Messner and German Arved Fuchs crossed Antarctica entirely on their own power except for two supply depots. Fuchs is the only person to have...


Accident Reports ANAM
Lightning, Wyoming, Tetons

LIGHTNINGWyoming, TetonsOn July 15, 1987, Brad Anderson (26) was 90 to 100 meters in front of his hiking partners on Table Mountain when he was struck by lightning. After the strike, his partners could not see him right away. Several minutes later...