Manaslu Attempt. We were Americans Andy Lapkass, Peter Nichols, Chris Treese, Jim McEachem, Ken Thorp, Steve and Ron Matous and Pete Athans, Britons Paul Moores, Alan Burgess and I, although I live in the United States, and Sherpas Dawa Nuru and P...
Polish Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, 1973. A party of the Polish Mountaineering Club was led by Ryszard Szafirski, accompanied by his wife Aleksandra, Walenty Fiut, Piotr Malinowski, Waclaw Otreba, Marian Pawlak, Krzysztof Szafranski and Bogdan...
A.A.C., New England Section. The New England Section started 1983 invigorated by the highly successful annual dinner in December 1982. The teamwork involved in producing that affair did a great deal to bring many of us together, while our share of...
Deaths in 2002. Japanese Saito Kenji died from AMS on Spantik while returning after scaling the 7,027m peak. He was brought down to camp III in critical condition but soon died. Captain Mohammad Iqbal, member of Pak-China K2 Expedition had a fatal...
Tripura Hiunchuli IV (Hanging Glacier Peak IV), Kanjiroba Himal. After flying to Baglung, an international group led by Doug Scott began a long approach on September 30. They trekked via Beni, the Myagdi Khola, Darbanh, Dhorpatan, the Ghustang Kho...
Peaks in Hidden Valley, Dhaulagiri Himal. Our small group, Josef Kurz, Kurt Niedermayr, Hermann Ponn, Hans Richter, Gerhard Wendl and I, along with Rinchen Lama from Kathmandu, managed to make the following nine first ascents above Hidden Valley, ...
A.M.C. White Mountain Guide. Sixteenth Edition. Published by the Appalachian Mountain Club, 5 Joy St., Boston, Mass., 1960. 494 pages, 17 maps. $4.50.This sixteenth edition of a guidebook first published in 1907 has been completely revised since t...
Alaskan Glacier Expedition 1935Many of the glaciers of the Alaskan coast were visited during the summer of 1935 by an expedition in charge of Prof. Wm. S. Cooper of the University of Minnesota and the writer, with Russell Dow and Robert Stix of Da...
Matternaught Peak, Taminah Arête, Tetons. On August 29, Kent Lugbill and Jim Tate climbed an important new route, the prominent south ridge of this peak in Avalanche Canyon. This long and spectacular arête is seen in profile from Lake Taminah. Sta...
INADEQUATE BELAY, INATTENTION, FALL ON ROCK Idaho, City of Rocks, Rabbit RockOn Friday, August 7, 1992, at 1300, Andrew (33) and Glenda Lainias (34) were climbing a route called “Sudden Pleasure.” Andrew Lainias had reached the top of the climb an...
AAC, Central Rockies Section. The Central Rockies Section was a sponsor of the Ouray Ice Festival 2000, held on January 14-16. We donated $300 to the Ice Park for their annual efforts of ice farming, safety, and maintenance. The crowd seemed as la...
Nyanchhen Thanglha Central Peak. Dr. Erika Prokosch, Ursula Bauer, Dr. Erich Bosina, Anna Szalay, Dr. Franz Herzog, Teodor Fritsche, Herwig Schnutt, Gunther and Werner Hönlinger, Fridl Widder, Karl Wuttke and I as leader crossed from Nepal into Ti...
Saraghrar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Jordi Colo- mer, leader, Joan Claramunt, Eduard Lluis, Enric Pérez, José L. Pérez, Alfred Martínez, Francesc Sabat, Xavier Tena, Dr. Pere Xaus and I. On July 20 we placed Base Camp at Totiraz N...
Dudh Kundali (6,042m), south ridge and traverse; Point 5,518m. Our expedition didn’t reach our proposed base camp in the heart of the massif northwest of Kanjiroba, let alone Patrasi (6,450m), our primary objective. Our gear, which we has shipped ...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The section met twice during 1959. On November 20, in cooperation with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, we sponsored a program on Rakaposhi, which Dick Irvin presented before a group of about 220 people. The film an...
Mount Shuksan, Southwest Face. On July 29, 1963 Dave Beckstead and I made the first ascent of Shuksan’s southwest precipice. This impressive wall, rising some 1800 feet above the lower Curtis Glacier, is an eye-capturing face, extremely steep in i...
International Year of MountainsWhat did it mean? What did it do? To most of us who read this journal, every year is a year of mountains. So you could be forgiven for thinking that the United Nations’ declaration of 2002 as International Year of Mo...
The Mace. In late March, I made a roped solo ascent of The Mace (F9) by the original route. After third-classing the first two pitches, I used the rope for protection on the last three, including the infamous “step-across,” where one bridges acros...
Washington, Camas, Chimney Rocks—At approximately 4:30 p.m. on May 25, one rope of three started up the west face on the centermost rock in the Chimney Rocks. After they had reached a point where they anchored three pitons, John Satterberg (23) st...
INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE—California, Yosemite Valley. On November 4, while rappelling down Glacier Point Terrace, a standard descent route, Bert Miller (20) rappelled to the end of his rope and could see the next set of anchors below him...