Logan Attempt. On June 13, Alan Plinz, Ian Bornarth, William Hunt, Kurt Dreibholz, Frank Shea, Russ Norton and I as leader were flown to 6200 feet on the Seward Glacier to attempt the Hummingbird Ridge. We set up Advance Base at 7800 feet on June ...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Cimmaron Mountains, Baldy PeakOn March 30, Heidi Kloos (41), traveling with her dog, went to climb a remote ice climb on the northeast side of Baldy Peak (10,603 feet). Ouray County Search and Rescue was contacte...
Cho Oyu Attempt. On October 13, Dan Langmade and I arrived at the Cho Oyu Base Camp at 5700 meters to attempt the standard route. We set up Camps I, II and III at 6850, 7200 and 7650 meters on October 14, 15 and 16. On October 17 we climbed to 780...
My bouldering mate Pete Hoersy agreed to join me on Mt. Kenya. To minimize the walking distance, he used his rally experience to get his Land Cruiser stuck in the middle of the hiking pass right on some big rocks at about 3,400m. After hours of di...
Aeolian Tower, Howling Winge. In the Courthouse Pasture area, north of Moab, in 1995, Dave Goldstein and I made a first ascent of the east face, Howling Winge (5.8 A4). It was the most difficult aid route I’ve been on. The route climbs right of an...
Thapa, first official ascent. A French team led by Raphael Guilbert went to Thapa, the least important of the nine new peaks opened by the Nepalese authorities in mid-May. This 6012m peak lies just north of Dhaulagiri I and Tukuche, and is really ...
Nuating Peak Attempt. Italians attempted to climb Nuating Peak (5813 meters, 19,072 feet), which rises between Biarchedi and Mitre Peak. Ferruccio Avelli, Antonio Longo, Teresa Messere, Marco Milani and Matteo Pellegrini arrived at their Base Camp...
The Colorado Mountain Club. Our club conducted more than 250 trips during 1984 ranging from day hikes to multi-day backpacks and technical climbs. Our downhill and cross-country ski groups increased their trip offerings to members. Training effort...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY POSITION, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise, Louise FallsA party of two were climbing the upper pillar (grade V) of this popular waterfall on March 20, About ten meters out from the belay, the...
Pre-Monsoon 2003, overview. The spring marked the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest and led to record numbers on the mountain. While there were well-over 100 expeditions to the permitted peaks in Nepal or on the Nepal/Tibet border (e...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempts and Ascent. The international team led by Pole Krzysztof Wielicki, the first expedition to Gasherbrum I in 1992, is described above. A four-man Spanish Basque group led by Mikel Egibar attempted the Messner rout...
Everest Ascent and Clean-up. In the spring of 1994, The Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition embarked on a unique mission on the world’s highest mountain with two goals. First, we wanted to reach the summit via the South Col mostly without the use ...
Mikhail Mikhailov and I planned to be in Sichuan by mid-March. Our goal was the southeast face of Edgar (E Gongga, 6,618m), a large, steep, mixed granite wall. However, at the last minute the Chinese authorities canceled our permit because o...
Kaga Tondo, Solucao Suicida. Various Ascents. It was reported that from June 6-13, three Brazilians (Márcio Bruno, Eliseu Frechou and Sérgio Tartari) put up the 550-meter Solucao Suicida on the east face of Kaga Tondo. It is believed that this is ...
Santa Cruz, West Ridge. Our Austrian expedition on May 3 tried to make the ascent of the northeast face of Santa Cruz Chico but we had to withdraw at 18,550 feet, some 500 feet below the summit. From May 5 to 7 Siefried Wasserbauer, Karl Antenstei...
FALL ON SNOWOregon, Mt. HoodOn August 8, two Hood River climbers were found dead near the summit of Mt. Hood by searchers who carefully crossed snow and ice made treacherous by the heat. The two men were spotted about 1000 feet below the summit on...
The Incinerator, Rock Creek Area, Stun Them With Science. This formation—resembling a sawdust incinerator in lumber mills—lies above and slightly east of Rock Creek Wall. The easiest approach is to climb a route on Rock Creek Wall then walk up to ...
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Mt. Baldy. Early in the morning of December 14, James Northrup (19) and two male companions attempted to climb Mt. Baldy. Inasmuch as the lift was not yet in operation, the group decided to hike up the lift line ...
EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn March 28, 1980, David T. Kays (23) signed out in the Visitor Center to solo climb The Nose (5.9 A-3, Grade VI, Y.D.S.) on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Kays lis...
P 6148, P 6206, P 6313, P 6339, P 6650, P 6985, P 7080, P 7111, P 7234, P7327, P 7500, P 7689, Chugach Mountains. On July 16, I was flown into the Tana River landing strip by Bob Jacobs for a 24-day solo climbing trip. I spent the first six days b...